Carbon Frame

dry664
dry664 Posts: 155
edited June 2012 in MTB buying advice
I have the opportunity to get a 2010 Whyte 19C frame in excellent condition for a very good price. I currently have an 801 which I got last September which Ive mainly been using on forest paths, fire roads and some more gnarly stuff around Swinley. Im 6' 4" and ended up getting the 801 in XL which I've been regretting (top tube feels a bit long,the bike feels big and I'm using a 50mm stem) so have been on the lookout for a smaller frame. The plan would be to move components from the 801 to the 19C.
I would say my skill level is pretty low, the 801 was my first mtb in the last 14 years.
Basically Im just looking to get some reassurance that I'm not doing something stupid getting a carbon frame from a general care, maintenance and rideability point of view. Ive compared the geometry with the 801 and I like the look of the 19C except for the slightly steeper head angle (70 vs 68.5 deg).
Any advice appreciated.

Comments

  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    Links might help but without checking are your forks 120mm and the 19C frame designed for 100mm? If then the extra 20mm on your forks will slacken the head angle a little. And if I'm right then check if your forks will be ok as you don't want to snap the frame by using forks that are too long, you can usually add a spacer to reduce the travel if you need to.

    Other things you might need to change are the front mech, seat post and possibly the BB.

    As I see it as long as you are enjoying riding then there's no harm in upgrading your bike, especially if this is a smaller frame that will fit you better.
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  • dry664
    dry664 Posts: 155
    Thanks for the advice. The travel on both the 801 and the 2010 10C is 100mm. I actually already upgraded the fork on the 801 to a SID so it should work perfectly on the 19C. As for seatpost, its 30.9 like the 801 so I assume the front mech should be compatible as well. The frame actually still has the FSA crank on it so no BB to worry about.
    Ive read a few posts on here about over-torquing bolts cracking carbon frames. Should I get a torque wrench?
  • dry664
    dry664 Posts: 155
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    dry664 wrote:
    Thanks for the advice. The travel on both the 801 and the 2010 10C is 100mm. I actually already upgraded the fork on the 801 to a SID so it should work perfectly on the 19C. As for seatpost, its 30.9 like the 801 so I assume the front mech should be compatible as well. The frame actually still has the FSA crank on it so no BB to worry about.
    Ive read a few posts on here about over-torquing bolts cracking carbon frames. Should I get a torque wrench?
    I wouldn't bother (In fact I didn't and I've got an uncracked carbon frame).

    Seatclamp and front mech are the only things I can think of that could damage the frame through overtightening, and neither of those need to be massively tight so you should be able to judge a 'sensible' amount of force.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."