Fitting SKS guards to Trek 1.1

MarksMintness
MarksMintness Posts: 484
edited June 2012 in Workshop
Hi guys, I've done a quick forum search but haven't found anyone with problems fitting SKS Commuter guards (35mm the narrowest ones) to a Trek 1 series?

The guards fit physically (long drop brakes and 23mm tyres help no doubt) but my problem is with the physical fittings. The stays to the eyelets are fine I can do those no probs, but my problem is that I can't get the screw that fixes the brakes to the frame to pass through the supplied SKS metal mount?! It's about 1mm too fat! :x

I tried it on the rear wheel, and had to give up and put it all back together in the end :(

I also haven't been able to figure out how to get the rear guard to attach to the bottom braket/kickstand area!

The SKS instructions are useless, as am I. Has anyone else had this problem or can offer some advice to a mechanical noob? Honestly I thought I could handle a simple mudguard installation... I despair with myself sometimes. :(
Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!

Comments

  • giropaul
    giropaul Posts: 414
    Apologies if this is what you're already doing, but if you've got allen key brake bolts (which are most these days), then the mudguard bracket has to go in front of the fork crown, and behind the rear bridge - between the frame and the serrated washer.
  • giropaul wrote:
    Apologies if this is what you're already doing, but if you've got allen key brake bolts (which are most these days), then the mudguard bracket has to go in front of the fork crown, and behind the rear bridge - between the frame and the serrated washer.
    Don't apologise, I am that thick and that has solved my problem! Many thanks...
    Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!
  • Hi guys, so I fitted my SKS guards, they're pretty sweet!

    Unfortunately I'm getting massive toe overlap to the point I can barely turn the wheel and nearly fell off going up the street :( . There's always been a reasonable bit of overlap since I put my R540 SPS-SL pedals on, but I wasn't expecting this complication! Before I go and saw off the tip of the stays and the rubber bit of the guard to see if that helps, has anyone had a similar problem?

    Here's a pic:

    7407106864_df71fddd38.jpg

    PS - this job has sucked bigstyle... :D
    Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    Are those long cranks the cause of toe clip overlap?
    What sized frame and what length cranks?
    I fix at the chainstay bridge using a single small ziptie throgh a small hole drilled 1cm from the tip. Often the tip of the mudguard needs thinning to fit snugly between the stays. I nibble away with a dremel until the fit is tight and the shape keeps it from popping out.
    Cut your metal stays and file smoothe for safety: those plastic bits always fall off.
  • Hi mate, thanks for the tips! The frame is a 54cm and come to think of it the cranks do look long! I'm going to have a look right now...
    Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!
  • Cranks are 172.5 which are normal I suppose for a medium. Will try doctoring the guard and my cleat position for a few mm... Cheers
    Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!