MegAvalanche Bike Spec - Changes?

lazyarsehole

The following is the spec I am looking at running on my bike for the MegAvalanche this July.
Is there anything that you think I really should change or am I pretty much there?
I am unsure about what compound of pad to run - sintered last longer but will generate more heat, organic/ceramic cause less fade but wear out faster... which to run?

Bike: Trek Scratch w.7" travel
R.Shock: Fox RP2 (Large Volume - Standard spec came with bike)
Forks: Lyrik solo air w.rebound/mission control/tapered head/20mm maxle/160mm travel
Brakes: Elixir w.203mm floating rotors - PADS TBC!
Drivechain: SLX/XT mix - 36t front, 11-34rear, e-thirteen guide
Wheels & Tyres: Bontrager Cousin Earl wheelset w.Minion F 2.4 Dual Ply 42 super tacky on front/HighRoller 2.4 60a Dual Play Rear/DH InnerTubes
Other Bits: Reverb Seat Post, Renthal Bars, Superstar Thru-Nano pedals

Personally, I think it's pretty much there, just really unsure on brake pad compound! Thoughts?

Northwind

You'll know your own riding but I've never felt a need for DH tubes and dualplies. Never done the mega myself but most folks seem to go for a bit less rolling resistance, maybe an Ardent or similiar on the back, it's a long run after all.

Also, pull out the poplock in the Lyriks if they're not the DH model and if you haven't already- improves the small bump sensitivity which is obviously good and should also save your hands a bit. Easy to reverse too so worth giving it a try (but I don't know of anyone who's reversed it!)

lazyarsehole

Will probably drop the DH tubes but last thing I want is a puncture.
Have thought about an Ardent, may take one to try out, but looking at running the high roller in 60a compound or trying the new high roller II which comes in the triple compound. Will be running the tyres firmer and suspension slightly softer to try and stop pinch flats.
There is no poplock in the lyriks, its a mission control damper with high/low speed compression and floodgate. Already run with minimal high speed to aid small bump and plenty of low speed to stop diving under braking, likely to soften it off a little and slow the rebound down (bit of advice received as the rebound speeds up as the oil inside heats up)

Northwind

Right you are, floodgate, that's the name- simple operation to remove it which gives performance almost the same as the DH damper- the wee floodgate poppet in the bottom of the damper slightly chokes it regardless of whether you've got the floodgate turned on or off.

rockmonkeysc

Right you are, floodgate, that's the name- simple operation to remove it which gives performance almost the same as the DH damper-

If you remove the floodgate you will have a DH damper, that is the only difference.
I would also go for a change to coil front & rear for more consistent performance through the long race run & plusher suspension with better small bump sensitivity.
I also have Elixir's, they do suffer with fade on even a 4 minute welsh downhill track. Stainless hoses might help but a set of DH brakes would be better.

Hob Nob

I wouldn't bother with the DH tubes, In all the years of racing with skinny XC tubes in dual ply tyres, I can count the punctures on one hand - and most of them are due to sheer stupidity.

lazyarsehole

As I would only run a coil front and rear for the trip, its unlikely I will be splashing around £800 on new forks and £300 or so on a rear shock. I know there are cheaper options than that but even so, for them to only be used 1 week a year seems fairly pointless.
I have had no problems with my current elixirs and will be fitting large diameter floating rotors - I may upgrade the hoses as well.

Not going to bother with the DH tubes now.

rockmonkeysc

Not sure of the exact cost but it's less than £200 to get your Lyrik's converted to coil.
My Lyriks are coil and they are much plusher than the air version.
Have you used your Elixir's on long DH tracks? Megavalanche track is very long, most brakes will overheat. I find my Elixir's (Elixir CR with stainless hoses & 203 rotors) will overheat on a fast run down Cwmcarn DH track & that's less than a 4 minute track. Once they overheat they won't cool unless you stop & give them a rest.

lazyarsehole

What brakes would you suggest? I know the track is long, was hoping wouldn't need to replace the brakes...

Keeping the lyrics as air - lot of the downhills I ride are very rocky, large repetitive hits and had no problems.

Twelly

lazyarsehole wrote:

What brakes would you suggest? I know the track is long, was hoping wouldn't need to replace the brakes...

Keeping the lyrics as air - lot of the downhills I ride are very rocky, large repetitive hits and had no problems.

Is there not some cheaper/simpler changes you can make to combat the heat build up? Shimano Ice Tech discs? Different fluid? Kevlar pads?

Testing info on Shimano Ice Tech discs: http://www.sicklines.com/2011/02/14/shi ... mark-test/

styxd

Is there not some cheaper/simpler changes you can make to combat the heat build up? Shimano Ice Tech discs? Different fluid? Kevlar pads?

Yes, dont drag your brakes. The track isnt very steep.

Torres

To be honest it looks suitable enough as it is. If you'er going to ride these sort of events infrequently then I'd say there's no point in changing any of the kit as it will compromise the bike for other uses.

With regards to the brakes; you'll probably have a good idea of how they work as it is. My advice would be to get them bled a few rides before you head out and throw some fresh pads in so they're working at their best; just make sure you take them for a few test rides first to iron out any niggles.

Hob Nob

styxd wrote:

Is there not some cheaper/simpler changes you can make to combat the heat build up? Shimano Ice Tech discs? Different fluid? Kevlar pads?

Yes, dont drag your brakes. The track isnt very steep.

Exactly that. If you cook them, you're doing it wrong.

Keep the air - it will be fine.

Northwind

RockmonkeySC wrote:

If you remove the floodgate you will have a DH damper, that is the only difference.

Not quite... But near as damnit. Well worth doing, anyway- who actually uses fork lockouts on a big bike like this?

As for coil... Lyrik single air spring is pretty damn good, I suppose because it's so big. I swapped to coil and was a wee bit disappointed at the difference, it's noticable but it's not as big as I'd expected. Still worth doing but not a gamechanger IMO.

Now this part is pure hearsay- I'm told that once you've used a coil for any length of time you can't go back to the air spring, as the inside of the fork get rubbed. Apparently the air spring isn't self-contained, it seals against the fork inner. Now I don't know if that's true, but worth checking out if you're considering it.

bennett_346

Northwind wrote:

Apparently the air spring isn't self-contained, it seals against the fork inner. Now I don't know if that's true, but worth checking out if you're considering it.

Quite true. There is a top and bottom seal and the inside wall of the stanchion forms the rest of the chamber.

Anonymous

Northwind wrote:

Right you are, floodgate, that's the name- simple operation to remove it which gives performance almost the same as the DH damper- the wee floodgate poppet in the bottom of the damper slightly chokes it regardless of whether you've got the floodgate turned on or off.

I assume that's why the DH model doesn't have it. I wondered why mine didn't (RC2DH).

Damn plush forks though even in solo air. I wouldn't see much reason to go coil.

Not done the Mega yet, perhaps next year, but other advice I hear is take spares and don't use expensive components given the potential for side swipes by others. Thus I'd probably swap out my X0 mech for a start!

ilovedirt

Yeah, those brakes should be alright, they won't overheat much worse than other brakes, just try not to drag them. Also, make sure they're well bled, to minimise arm pump. In fact the more you can do to reduce arm pump the better, that's the real killer!
As for pads, I doubt you'll wear out organic ones, my avids have never gone through pads too fast, unlike my formulas!

Rest of the bike sounds pretty sorted to me! I run XC tubes on my DH bike with dual ply tubes as well and very rarely puncture, DH tubes are overkill unless you're racing I guess. And even then they're not necessary.

hucking_fell

Why not tubeless ?

andyrm

I'd say lose the Avids for a set of XT or SLX Trails. Stick with 203 rotors.

Go tubeless. Personal choice for me at the moment is a WTB Moto 2.3 TCS up front with a Weirwolf 2.3 TCS out back.

Other than that, you're pretty sorted.

Only other upgrade is to your arms and core. Get in the gym, do tons of pressups, tucked elbow pressups, planks and various kettlebell workouts. Your upper body, forearms and shoulders will really thank you for it.

lazyarsehole

Not going to change the tyres from what I know ... I know how the tyres behave and I think being c .... with as much as the bike as possible can only be a good thing!

Tempted to get an upgraded brake set - have heard good things about the new shimano sets but I havent had any issues with the avids on this bike since new...

As for myself, I have been at the gym since feb... so fingers are crossed!

miss notax

ilovedirt wrote:

As for pads, I doubt you'll wear out organic ones, my avids have never gone through pads too fast, unlike my formulas!

Oh bugger, I run Formulas :roll:

Lazyarsehole - see you at the top in July 8)

jairaj

to me the bike looks fine as it is. just service and check everything properly so the whole thing is working well.

maybe upgrade the rider with some extra tuition? unless you're a pro racer there is always areas where we can improve our skills.