Squirt Dry Lube

chiefinspector
chiefinspector Posts: 153
edited May 2012 in MTB general
After reading a previous post regarding Squirt Dry Lube, i decided to buy a bottle to see what it was like. The website claims that once applied, the chain becomes self cleaning. I've been out for 2 rides since the Squirt was applied and the chain looks like it could do with a clean. It could be a case that due to it being waxed based it starts to peel off but is it ok to leave the chain like that?

Comments

  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    If the chain was clean when you applied the Squirt it tends to stay that way but as you say after a couple of rides the wax comes off and it needs reapplying.

    I usually give the chain a polish (!) with a dry cloth, put a drop of Squirt on each roller and leave it overnight.
  • The chain was brand new when the Squirt was applied. Just using a cloth to polish will be fine? Is there any need to give the chain a proper clean (i.e. chain cleaning device)?
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I've just started using squirt too, and the procedure seems to be to run the chain through a rag to take any muck off the outside, then reapply the lube.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    Depends on whether you cleaned off the factory oil that comes with a new chain. If you use Squirt you could do with a clean chain, and that includes getting rid of the factory stuff that's already on it.

    With this sun you'll be hitting dust on the trails probably so Squirt will 'coagulate' into a sticky black squidge. It's supposed to do that, that's part of the lubricant method. All that hard course grit and dust is turned into a paste-y squidge, that's how it works. You'll find those squidge-y lumps drop off as part of it's self cleaning action.
  • I wiped the new chain with a rag but didn't give it a proper clean. I'll maybe give the chain a full clean then reapply the Squirt and follow what has been said above.

    Cheers
  • kenan
    kenan Posts: 952
    If you email Squirt they will send out a free sample, which is what I did.

    Seems ok but to be honest I like using my chain cleaner :oops:
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    I wiped the new chain with a rag but didn't give it a proper clean.
    that's all it needs
    I'll maybe give the chain a full clean
    the factory lube is the best lube the chain will ever have. It's on all the pins inside the rollers and the purpose of Squirt is to keep it in and keep dirt out.

    If you have a look at the o-rings on a motorcycle chain Squirt is trying to do the same job
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    .blitz wrote:
    I wiped the new chain with a rag but didn't give it a proper clean.
    that's all it needs
    I'll maybe give the chain a full clean
    the factory lube is the best lube the chain will ever have. It's on all the pins inside the rollers and the purpose of Squirt is to keep it in and keep dirt out.

    Well the SRAM stuff is, it's really nice low tack spray. KMC can be sticky goo cack.
    .blitz wrote:
    If you have a look at the o-rings on a motorcycle chain Squirt is trying to do the same job

    True. Which is why Squirt needs to adhere and stick on a clean chain and why they recommend the following:
    To get the full benefit of the Squirt Experience

    - Do not apply over a greasy chain that has had other "wet" or "dry" lubes on it.
    - Degrease first and allow chain to dry.

    - Apply a drop of Squirt on each chain roller and don't wipe any off.
    - Wait 5 minutes and apply again. Don't be alarmed if over zealous application results in lube to drip from the chain initially.

    Which I'd say is about right having done everything you shouldn't do with it. It still washes off too easily for me but that's another story.
  • Thewaylander
    Thewaylander Posts: 8,594
    .blitz wrote:
    I wiped the new chain with a rag but didn't give it a proper clean.
    that's all it needs
    I'll maybe give the chain a full clean
    the factory lube is the best lube the chain will ever have. It's on all the pins inside the rollers and the purpose of Squirt is to keep it in and keep dirt out.

    If you have a look at the o-rings on a motorcycle chain Squirt is trying to do the same job

    The manufacture lube is normally grafting grease and goo from construction, its thick sticky and awful for picking crap up and is the worst thing you can have on your chain when you head out in the dry, itwill suck up everything.

    Wash it out and replace with suitable non sticky stuff
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    The manufacture lube is normally grafting grease and goo from construction, its thick sticky and awful for picking crap up and is the worst thing you can have on your chain when you head out in the dry, itwill suck up everything.
    Not the case with XTR chains IME
  • Thewaylander
    Thewaylander Posts: 8,594
    .blitz wrote:
    The manufacture lube is normally grafting grease and goo from construction, its thick sticky and awful for picking crap up and is the worst thing you can have on your chain when you head out in the dry, itwill suck up everything.
    Not the case with XTR chains IME

    yeh but who buy's Shimano chains there awful :lol:
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    .blitz wrote:
    The manufacture lube is normally grafting grease and goo from construction, its thick sticky and awful for picking crap up and is the worst thing you can have on your chain when you head out in the dry, itwill suck up everything.
    Not the case with XTR chains IME
    Or SRAM chains.

    Though that's the best bit about them. KMC chains are still better but yes the factory stuff is well tacky. That said was perfectly fine for weeks of dry condition riding without needing to apply any oil.

    People fuss too much over chain oil though. Just slap some stuff on and ride, if it needs more, slap some more on, wipe muck off after ride, and most of the time you don't need wet lube, even in the wet. Depends on the kind of wet ;)

    Full on degreasing is going to mean you need to do a full on re-grease and really you need to have it done the factory way to get it worked right into the rollers and better with the factory lube that needs heating to ensure it stays on the rollers.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    I clean the KMC glue off before fitting, it's great for road chains mind but diabolical for mtbing IME.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • Papa Ado
    Papa Ado Posts: 76
    [quote=the factory lube is the best lube the chain will ever have. It's on all the pins inside the rollers and the purpose of Squirt is to keep it in and keep dirt out.[/quote]

    This is fact. KMC factory lube is applied during chain assembly (before plates are riveted) and is more viscous than aftermarket lubes. Yes it's as tacky as flypaper, but it is far superior. To keep the chain clean, use a little squirt lube to wipe along the exterior. Of course, reg maintenance should still be followed.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    I had a brand new KMC X9L destroy itself in one wet ride, it just hoovered up dirt and even small stones and bits of plant, then explosively chainsucked itself to death. KMC warranty replaced it and suggested I clean the factory lube off before using it offroad.

    <edit- or maybe it was an SL. Not sure>
    Uncompromising extremist
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    Wow, just put some lube on now and again and ride the fekking thing...
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    Yes... after you've read the instructions for the lube you've bought...no point paying an overinflated fortune for the stuff and wasting it because you're to lazy / dumb to RTFM. Like.
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    Instructions? Give over, its friggin oil. I've only ever ran some oil through mine once a fortnight and very occasionally cleaned the chain with degreaser and it's lasted the past two years without replacement, so don't give me this crap about routines and sacrificial processess to the gods just to keep the thing turning.
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    edited May 2012
    Yeah. About that. You're on the wrong thread. This thread is about Squirt Lube which is fuck all to do with oil based lubes.
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    And my point being it sounds like a collosal faff to no actual gain.
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    What? Cleaning the chain once before you shove something like Squirt on? Not really, not for the gain you get long term. Depends if you see the point of swapping over to wax / dry based lubes full time or during the dry months. I can't use oil based stuff now, I'd be going through drivetrain bits left, right and centre with the millstone grit round here.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Totally agree. I've had the same chain for about a year, done nothing except hose the bike, wipe it down and lube every few rides in wet weather, 5 or 6 in dry. The one before lasted well over a year.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • billyballs
    billyballs Posts: 41
    Here we go-- this is getting really interesting now.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Papa Ado wrote:
    KMC factory lube is applied during chain assembly (before plates are riveted) and is more viscous than aftermarket lubes. Yes it's as tacky as flypaper, but it is far superior. To keep the chain clean, use a little squirt lube to wipe along the exterior. Of course, reg maintenance should still be followed.
    Thus speaks the KMC rep perfect sense.

    Factory lube is best.

    Don't degrease and strip the stuff out.

    Apply Squirt on top to keep the good stuff in and the crud out.

    End of.
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    No, there speaks the KMC marketing department and RTFM.