Lube / Grease
derbygrimpeur
Posts: 822
OK, a few questions...
I'm after some grease to apply to things like bottle cage / mudguards bolts to stop them corroding. Any recommendations?
Also, chain lube. White Lightening have Wet/Dry/Epic. I need some for my new summer bike, which will primarily be used in summer/dry conditions. Should I go for Epic or Dry? Presumably Wet lis best for my winter bike that gets used in all conditions? Doesn't have to be White Lightening, so what's the best stuff to go for.
What should I use on brake caliper pivots and other moving parts?
I know I'm going to get differing opinions but I guess I am looking to be educated :shock:
I'm after some grease to apply to things like bottle cage / mudguards bolts to stop them corroding. Any recommendations?
Also, chain lube. White Lightening have Wet/Dry/Epic. I need some for my new summer bike, which will primarily be used in summer/dry conditions. Should I go for Epic or Dry? Presumably Wet lis best for my winter bike that gets used in all conditions? Doesn't have to be White Lightening, so what's the best stuff to go for.
What should I use on brake caliper pivots and other moving parts?
I know I'm going to get differing opinions but I guess I am looking to be educated :shock:
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Comments
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Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved0 -
yes, I've read that, but it doesn't really address all of my points.0
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I have a tub of grease and a tube with a syringe. I much prefer the syringe as it's easier to apply and it grease stays clean. Anything should do the job. I think I've got a tub of TF2 lithium grease and a tube of teflon grease.
For chain lube, I've been using Finish Line Wet which is fine, but goes black after a while. I was given a bottle of Finish Line Ceramic Wax lube and I've been using it on my good bike and I've been impressed: the chain stays clean and quiet and it doesn't need to be reapplied too often. I haven't done much riding in the wet with this lube since I've got another bike with mudguards I use in bad weather.
For derailleurs and brake pivots I tend just to give them a skoosh with GT85 when I'm cleaning the bike. Occassionally, I'll remove the jockey wheels to clean and regrease them. Wheel bearings the same: clean cones and bearings with GT85 and regrease with the syringe. GT85 is a pretty good degreaser and moisture repellant, but leaves a protective teflon film, so it's good for wiping down the frame, cleaning the chainrings, chain, cassette etc. It's supposed to have some antirust properties too so useful on bolt heads etc. Halfords flog it cheap if you buy something else from the bike section (even another can of GT85!)0 -
Cheers, that's the sort of thing I was hoping for. Anyone else got any opposing/supporting views?0
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Pretty much it really. The 'correct stuff' to use as an anti-seize is copper grease, but in the cases your talking of any grease will do as its low stress, not completely required so anything will help. A dob of dry lube onto the threads and then allow to dry also works.
'Wet' and 'dry' lube is a discription of how they stay on the chain. Dry lube has a solvent evaporate and leave a wax/ptfe gum inside the chain, wet is a oil lube that stays, well wet. Byt use wet in the wet and dry in the dry... You can use wet all the time but it will attract grit badly in dusty condtions and go dirty black quickly which offends my eyes, car interier and leg :evil:
Likewise you can use dry lube all the time, but it will only last 30-60 miles if it is really wet, but is stays clean, does not attract grit/dirt so is better in summer, and the chain stays shiny.
Either way just make shure the chain is clean before application, apply lube, run through gears for a min or so, then run chain through rag with GT85 on it - leaves the lube in the chain where it is needed but the outside that gathers dirt dry/clean.0 -
Nice one, thanks for the advice.0