Please help me service my road bike

graeme_s-2
graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
edited April 2012 in Workshop
Right. I've done bits and bobs, but I'm not the greatest mechanic. For the last 3 months of last year I rode a 20 mile each way commute in fairly crappy weather, which took a fairly serious toll on my bike. Towards the end of the commute the bottom bracket went. I got my LBS to service it, and they gave me a list of other work that would also need doing. To save a bit of money, and improve my skills I'd like to do these myself, but I'm hoping for some help and advice.

The bike is a Focus Variado (aluminium frame) with Shimano 105 5600 with a compact chain set.

The LBS have told me the following need changing:

Chain (have the tools, have done this before)
Headset (how do I know which headsets will fit, what tools do I need?)
Cassette (I know I need a 10 speed chainwhip, anything else to consider?)
Large chainring (anything more difficult than undoing the allen bolts and banging on a new one?)
Wheel hubs need servicing (they're Shimano WH R550s, I've no idea what I'm doing here)

The bike is used for commuting in the summer (5 miles each way every day) and training rides when I don't want to use my nice road bike, so replacement parts need to be decent, but I'm not after any bling.

Current headset
7061839421_5edb1cd61e.jpg

Current chainset
6915757912_e72c0325a9.jpg

Comments

  • Wirral_paul
    Wirral_paul Posts: 2,476
    wow thats a lot of headset spacers!! You may be better of flipping the stem over and running less spacers as this will reduce the strain on the new headset whilst keeping the bars at the same height). Replacing a headset is a pretty specialist job so best left to the LBS who should have the tools (the cost of which wont be worth it, and bodging the job could lead to damage).

    Chainrings are easy to replace, although you may need a special tool to stop the chainring nut from spinning (or you may get away with it if the nut doesnt spin. Cheap to buy anyway.

    http://www.parker-international.co.uk/11776/Park-Tool-CNW2C-Chainring-Nut-Wrench.html?referrer=froogle&utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=pid11776

    Cassette is also easy if you have the chainwhip and the lockring tool. Worth buying the tools as they arent too dear and you can then remove the cassette for future cleaning. You also need the cassette off to service the hubs. Instructions for the hubs can be found online. Worth a partial stripdown / clean and checking for obvious issues before replacing anything like bearings

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Wheel/ROAD/WH-R550-650C/SI_4D40A_En_v1_m56577569830607676.pdf
  • Unless you've been riding with a trashed chain for a while it's unlikely the chainrings are shot. Not sure of the ratios but chains wear first, then cassette then chainrings. Be worth replacing the chain and cassette first, then see if you are getting jumping under load, if so replace the chainrings. For the cassette you will need a cassette lockring tool as well as the whip, go with one with a handle and the centring rod as per http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=60748 as much easier to use ime. Buy a chain checking tool and replace the chain in good time to prevent wear on cassette/chainring in future. If you do need to replace the chainrings then one of these makes life easier http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=55957 although you can make do with a flat bladed screwdriver if you have too. Not sure if the wheels are cup and cone or cartridge bearing. See Park tools website for guidance. http://www.parktool.com/
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Unless you've been riding with a trashed chain for a while it's unlikely the chainrings are shot.

    Take a look at the photo; the big chainring is toast.
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  • AndyOgy
    AndyOgy Posts: 579
    DesWeller wrote:
    Unless you've been riding with a trashed chain for a while it's unlikely the chainrings are shot.

    Take a look at the photo; the big chainring is toast.


    You can say that again.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    It's the original chain set and I bought the bike in 2007. It's got 1,000s of miles on it, the last 2,000 on damp, crappy, gritty, dirty roads. I think I've had my money's worth out of it.
  • DesWeller wrote:
    Unless you've been riding with a trashed chain for a while it's unlikely the chainrings are shot.

    Take a look at the photo; the big chainring is toast.

    :oops: :lol:
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Thanks for all the advice so far.

    I'm going to order a chain whip, lockring tool and a chainring nut wrench.
    And a shimano 10sp 105 cassette (once I've gone home this evening and checked what sprockets are on the current cassette), a new chain and a replacement chain ring.

    Have I missed anything? (assuming I'm going to get the headset serviced by the LBS and I don't know what the status is with the wheel hubs until I have a poke around in them).
  • Twostage
    Twostage Posts: 987
    Looking at the shimano tech docs the hubs use cup and cone bearings. To take them apart you need cone spanners. I got mine as a pair from Halfords for about £9. You'll need grease. I got one of those gun things that make application a lot easier :- http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... tedKingdom
  • samg123
    samg123 Posts: 275
    The WHr550s are a bit special in that they need 17mm cone wrenches to get the hubs apart.
    Regarding the headset, Cane Creek have a useful tool for finding which you need: http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder