Can i Fit Gear cable inners without removing bar tape ?
Hi people, first post in the road forum. just had the roadie in for a service whilst the weather decided to be storm force, the LBS have replaced push fit Bottom bracket bearing and head set bearing being as my frame is carbon i prefer them to use the proper bearing press rather than me using wood and sockets. however they also said to do the gear cables and bar tape consequently. but the bar tape is in great condition and comfy, so is there a way to fit new gear inners with leaving the bar tape and levers intact ? or do i need to obviously remove the hoods, bar tape and anything else ? i've done plenty of work on mountain bikes and motocross bikes but never a roadie.
the bike is a 2010 cube agree gtc pro so any advice will be appreciated, the gear shifter are ultegra and so are both derailleurs. if need be i can post pics of the bar set-up to aid advice ?
the bike is a 2010 cube agree gtc pro so any advice will be appreciated, the gear shifter are ultegra and so are both derailleurs. if need be i can post pics of the bar set-up to aid advice ?

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You should be able to just pull the existing inners out and thread new inners into the existing cable outer.'Hello to Jason Isaacs'0
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Make sure that you are in small/small - this releases all tension from the cables and allows the exit holes on the shifters to line up so that you can thread the cables out.
Undo cables from the mech.
Push cables out and you'll see wher they pop out of the shifters.
New cable in hand, take out cable out and thread new cable in, feed through until it has come through the desired mech.
I must admit that at this point I would change the rear mech outer by teh rear mech as this is teh one that gets ganked up and stops working properly - its a 2 minute 50p job.
Thread cables through into mechs, tighten, adjust mechs off you go.
I recommend that you only snip cables and apply cable ends once everything is working 100%
Throw old bits in to next doors garden
HTH
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Cheers for the advice folks. ill give it ago picking it back up tomorow, like you say might be worth replacing the outers too if they appear "gunky" i think they should be relatively clean its more about cable stretch to be honest.0
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Quick tip 4 fit inners:
once threaded thro etc on rear mech ensure barrel adjuster is about mid point; then thread inner thro`, and by hand move mech to say middle cog, and with chain on it should stay there; then thread inner behind bolt clamp on mech and tighten but not too tight;
With wheel off ground, ie in a workstand etc, rotate pedals and mech should move to a smaller cog; very gently release tighteness on bolt whilst still turning pedals and mech should slowly move towards smallest cog as inner cable slips through bolt clamp. Once on smallest cog tighten clamp bolt and inner should now be at correct tension.
Run thro` all gears again (sometimes outers aren`t fully into stops), recehck and if small amount extra tension needed use barrel adjuster to adjust, Check clamp bolt fully tightened...and ride smooth0 -
In general it's the liners in the housings that wear out, not the steel cables themselves. I've rarely had success fettling a cable run without replacing the housings as well as the inner cables.
Besides, wrapping bar tape is not that hard, just takes a bit of practice.- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
DesWeller wrote:Besides, wrapping bar tape is not that hard, just takes a bit of practice.
+1 I was wary of doing this too but bit the bullet and it's fine - I really enjoyed it and if you are not too ham fisted you can easily unwind and re-wrap till you get it perfect. Since then I have also unwrapped and rewrapped exisiting tape a few times and again it ended up fine (in once case the re-wrap was way better than how it started out [ex lbs!] !).0 -
In general it's the liners in the housings that wear out
and particularly the outer casing from chainstay stop >>> rear mech, lots muck can get pulled into it on cable and it has a very tight loop bend on it; worth swopping this section at least0