removing fixing for bottles off the frame? can it be done?

monkey_man_1
monkey_man_1 Posts: 108
edited April 2012 in MTB general
hiya, i wanting to get a dropper seatpost, and for what i want it to do i need i need it to sit quite far down in my seat tube but there is a bit of metal which stops the seatpost going in and further and its te fixing point for a bottle holder. is there any way of removing this so i can get the seatpost in further? im guessing drilling a hole inmy frame is a no no lol. cheers

Comments

  • freezing77
    freezing77 Posts: 731
    You have already got a hole in your frame that the nutsert fits into. Remove the nutsert by drtilling it out. Carefully

    What nutserts look like before and after inserting into material

    4789883814_b16f7c3c31_z.jpg
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    hiya, i wanting to get a dropper seatpost, and for what i want it to do i need i need it to sit quite far down in my seat tube
    May I ask why you need it so far down?
  • well i need/want 125mm travel so the inseted length is around 350/380mm. my saddle at the highest point, the seatpost comes out of the frame by about 160mm so it works out most if not all the seatpost is in the frame. hope you understand that, measurement are just guesses off top of my head lol
  • I think it can be done ! :):):):)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    'Rivnuts' like that can be drilled out quite easily, you need a drill bit only slightly larger than the bolt entry size....however what will stop your frame filling with shite?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    well i need/want 125mm travel so the inseted length is around 350/380mm. my saddle at the highest point, the seatpost comes out of the frame by about 160mm so it works out most if not all the seatpost is in the frame. hope you understand that, measurement are just guesses off top of my head lol
    I'm still.no clearer on why you'd need the post so deep in the frame, sorry.
    I've talked with a lot of people who've misunderstood how the dropper post thing works until they see one, so I'm just a little concerned that you might be taking the rivnuts out unnecessarily.
  • well i need/want 125mm travel so the inseted length is around 350/380mm. my saddle at the highest point, the seatpost comes out of the frame by about 160mm so it works out most if not all the seatpost is in the frame. hope you understand that, measurement are just guesses off top of my head lol
    I'm still.no clearer on why you'd need the post so deep in the frame, sorry.
    I've talked with a lot of people who've misunderstood how the dropper post thing works until they see one, so I'm just a little concerned that you might be taking the rivnuts out unnecessarily.

    I'm with Yeehaa on this.

    You said:
    well i need/want 125mm travel so the inseted length is around 350/380mm. my saddle at the highest point, the seatpost comes out of the frame by about 160mm so it works out most if not all the seatpost is in the frame. hope you understand that, measurement are just guesses off top of my head lol

    I don't understand this bit. If you've got 380mm inserted in the frame and 125mm travel on the post. Total length will be somewhere in the region of 600mm. To my knowledge, there is no such thing as ANY post of that length.

    Ok, so I've got a 420mm, 125mm drop Reverb fitted to my bike.

    The MAXIMUM depth you can insert into the frame is 210mm

    This leaves 190mm sticking out ith the post at full extension (measured to the mid-point of the saddle rail).

    You have to remember that the length inserted to the frame once clamped is constant. It does not change irrespective of wether or not you have the post up or down.

    I'd suggest that if you want 160mm max post height, you'd be better looking for a 100mm drop, 380mm post. You'd be looking at more like 190mm inserted length, with much closer to the 160mm sticking out that you're looking for.

    How far into the seat-tube is the highest cage bolt?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Doesn't it also depend how low you want the seat to go? I'm toying with getting a reverb but I need to be sure the seat will go just about as low as I can get it now, which is basically not far off the existing seat collar.
  • deadkenny wrote:
    Doesn't it also depend how low you want the seat to go? I'm toying with getting a reverb but I need to be sure the seat will go just about as low as I can get it now, which is basically not far off the existing seat collar.

    So in your case, say you buy a 420mm reverb and stick it as far into the frame as you possibly can. There would be 210mm of post inside the frame.
    You'd then be able to have the saddle just above the seat collar at it's lowest setting, and about 135mm above the seat collar at it's highest setting. The amount of post inside the frame would remain constant at 210mm though.
    I can get some close-ups of mine at highest and lowest settings if it helps.

    I could be wrong, but I think that some people (not necessarily kenny) might be under the impression that these posts actually remain a constant length at all times, and just slide in and out of the frame, so sometimes you've got 210mm inside the frame, sometimes you've got 380mm and so on.

    That's not the case. Dropper posts are telescopic.

    You've got an inner post and outer sleeve. The inner post (the bit that sticks out of the frame) slides up and down inside the outer sleeve. So the whole post shortens by 125mm (or whatever drop your particular post is). I didn't want to say this before as I didn't want to come accross condescending. But I guess it's only obvious once you've actually seen one operating.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Yeah, myself I realise the post in the frame is the fixed part. The concern was if I want the collar part of the dropper post to be right down low, then the lower part of the post has to go all the way in the frame. Therefore it depends if you've got enough space in the frame to take all that post (as it turns out, I believe I need a 380 as the 420 is too long for my frame, i.e. 210 inside the frame is too long).

    Some people like their lower seat position to be still fairly high so they then have a fair bit of lower post sticking out of the frame. In which case they might want a longer post to ensure there's enough in the frame. If that makes sense.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    You're misunderstanding things. You set the post, at full extension, to the "proper" efficient pedalling height.
    Otherwise you'd still need to undo the post clamp and move the post up for pedally sections.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    edited April 2012
    Not sure if that was to me or the OP, but whatever the case on how they work, all I need is a post that...

    1. goes the way down for steep drops and roll-ins,
    2. can sit at my usual comfortable height for normal singletrack riding fun (tends to be mostly descent and not interested in optimum pedal efficiency here),
    3. and then can extend to maximum comfortable height just for the climbs.

    Generally I don't ride with it high as whilst it's more efficient pedalling it shoves me way too far forward and I feel like I'm riding a penny farthing. I only feel the benefit (in the legs) on climbs purely from a comfort persepective.

    So, again, as I understand it the deal is between 380 and 420 is the amount of lower post available. Not how much it will extend. *But* how far down inside the frame the lower post will go is a factor and if your frame doesn't allow the post to go that far in then your lowest seat height will be affected, as the collar of the lower post will stick out of the frame a fair bit. If you don't want a really low seat then this is not an issue.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    If you simply must have your post adjusted between all the way down or up at peddaling height, then no, a dropper post is not for you.

    The thing is, I like having my post at or near a proper height for pedalling for covering ground, then dropping it out of the way for technical riding.
    With a standard seatpost, that would mean constantly getting off the bike to adjust it, so I did what most people do - I left it slightly lower than ideal, in order to sacrifice some pedalling prowess, for a little chuckability.
    But, when coming to really big terrain, or when riding DH, I'd drop the saddle all the way down into the frame.

    Now, with the Joplin post, I can have the saddle at the right height for peddaling, and can immediately have it lowered if the terrain changes. 4 inches is actually quite a drop, so the saddle gets comfortably out of the way for almost everything. All that means that I have my saddle at the right height for what I'm riding almost the entire time, at the flick of a lever.

    And, when I'm going out to ride big drops, or some other freeriding, I can still drop the entire thing into the frame - and even then the entire post length is comparable with what I had before.
  • sorry to add confusion with my numbers lol. thinking over it the the 385 qouted length is overall and a insertable 200mm give or take. my saddle set at the correct high for pedaling would mean almost all of that 200mm is in the frame, again without measuring i dont know but i do know that the bolts for the drinks bottle interferes with this, for exmaple they only allow 150mm of seatpost insertion. i want to be able to drop it from full hieght to full down without having to get off the bike all the time! to stop much getting in the frame i guess i could just put some heli tape or similar over the holes!