Tool kit required for a full service?

bencraggs Posts: 4
edited February 2012 in Workshop
I've just clicked over 3,000 miles on my racer, decided it's time for a pretty serious service, stripdown and rebuild.

I have done some searching around and a full service will cost me £125 minimum in any decent bike shop. Obviously buying tools will pay for itself in the long run but I don't want to start the job only to realise I am missing something vital.

What sort of tools am I going to need? I have a fairly basic Raleigh Avanti - 3/4 carbon with Tiagra throughout.

I've obviously got a decent set of generic tools, spanners, hex keys, hammer and the like, but none of the specialist tools.

I've just worked backwards through the bike and have come up with this list of things to purchase:

Grease £4
Cassette Lock ring and bottom bracket remover combined £13 (or £4 + £12 separate)
Chain whip £6
Cable cutter £30
Chain wear indicator £6


Break and Gear Cables (£25)
Blocks (£12)
Bar tape. (£10)

So, barring any major issues with the other components (no play in BB, cassette and crankset all appear to be okay for another 2-3,000 miles) what else am I going to suddenly discover I need? What is that vital job delaying bit of kit that I've not thought of?

Many thanks for any advice.



  • nweststeyn
    nweststeyn Posts: 1,574
    Torque wrench for making sure you don't spoil your frame when you're tightening things back up.
  • nweststeyn
    nweststeyn Posts: 1,574
    Chain tool for chain tooling.... (sorry, breaking/rejoining chains, unless you have a powerlinky type guy on it already).
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221

    Some other useful things:

    Chain splitter (you'll need to shorten the new chain, even if you use quick links).

    Depending on what sort of chain, you might want to pick up a few appropriate quick-links/missing-links etc to help with getting the chain on and off faster.

    Some cable crimp-on ends (the shop may throw these in for free with the cables but it's worth asking). Similarly, cable outer ferrules if you're replacing/shortening outers (some cable sets will come with them, some will not).

    Possibly some cone spanners if you need to tightwn up your wheel hubs and they have adjustable bearings.
  • nweststeyn
    nweststeyn Posts: 1,574
    Spoke wrench incase you fancy trying to true your own wheels... if not, still handy to have incase you pop a spoke or something and need to do an emergency fix/true. Buy one of the triangular ones for 3 different spoke sizes, should get you through most problems.
  • sturmey
    sturmey Posts: 964
    How come £25 for new cables?? You can get 4 x inner cables for £4, even £12 would be extravagant. Outer cables not necessary unless kinked/damaged. Just lube the insides,they'll be fine.

    Chain £30? New 10 speed KMC for about half that.

    Chain wear indicator £6? Forget that, you will know if chain is worn it will start skipping on the cassette.
  • Excellent. Thanks everyone, and sturmey, cheers. Saving me a bundle there.

  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Regarding the chain, I'd disagree about waiting for it to start skipping. When the chain wears - and it 'effectively' gets longer as the bushes wear down - it no longers sits perfectly in the valleys of the cassette sprockets and the chain rings. This will put an uneven strain on the leading teeth and this will wear the cassette and chain rings out faster.

    Ideally, you want to replace the chain before this really starts to happen - otherwise, you'll end up needing to relace the chainrings and cassette sooner too. Also, if the cassette and chain wear down together, putting a new chain on will cause it to skip as the cassette sprocket teeth no longer match the ideal pitch of the new chain.

    However, you don't need a chain wear tool - just measure the chain length over 12 sets of links (should be a foot in length) and if it's over 1/16th longer than it should be, replace the chain.

    See 'Measuring Chain Wear' at: