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Difficulty truing wheel

HerbsmanHerbsman Posts: 2,029
edited February 2012 in Workshop
I have been building wheels for years but can't seem to true the rear one of a pair I built recently. The front couldn't be any straighter but the rear is giving me greif. All I want to know is if it's worth re-starting it again from the point where the last thread is just about visible.

I've never had a problem building a wheel; it is a simple process as long as you read up on what you're doing, get advice off experienced wheel builders, take your time and concentrate. Maybe the fact that nothing has ever gone wrong is the problem here as I don't know what to do when something does go wrong!

Obviously all of the spokes are the correct length, have had the same number of turns before being dished, spoke paths were set, stress was releived etc. But Is it worth gradually loosening all them to the point where the thread is just visible at the end of the nipple, and starting again? If I had made a slight mistake earlier would going back and starting again fix it? Or is it possible that the rim wasn't perfectly straight?

I'm mindful of the fact that the rear rim turned up in its box with no bubble wrap (the front was well protected and came in a seperate box) and there were a couple of minor scratches on it. I was a bit worried that this indicated that something may have happened to it. I wanted to send it back or take it back to my local branch (you may be able to guess where I ordered it from) but decided not to bother as I didn't want to wait any longer, and when placed on a couple of flat surfaces (windows) it appeared to be perfectly flat... then again who is to say that windows are flat...

Will dismantle, clean the grease off the eyelets and try and get a refund if it doesn't play the second time...
CAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!

Posts

  • restart... it happens, just release the tension and start back
  • If you've got some digital calipers or a vernier, check the side walls are parallel all round and that there are no kinks anywhere. Window test should've shown that up but you never know.
    I may be a minority of one but that doesn't prevent me from being right.
    http://www.dalynchi.com
  • Exactly the same happened to me with this rear wheel I'm building. I could get it round but the tensions were all over the place. Best to start again making sure that all nipples are at the same point and take it up checking roundness as you go.
  • HerbsmanHerbsman Posts: 2,029
    Sorted it now.
    CAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!
  • VelonutterVelonutter Posts: 2,437 Lives Here
    Yep, not been building wheels long but as a beginner I found to dismantle and start again helped tremendously.

    How did you fix your problem?
  • HerbsmanHerbsman Posts: 2,029
    Release spoke tension about 3 or 4 turns (in 1/4 turn increments at first, then 1/2 as they got slacker) until there was barely any tension in the wheel. Then re-tension them, same as before. Much straighter now despite some drive side spokes being tighter than others and the same goes for the non-drive side. I've read that identical tension in each spoke on one side will not make the wheel true, because of imperfect spoke hole drilling in the rim and hub, imperfect roundness of the hub flange and rim etc, some spokes need to be tighter than others to make the wheel round and true.
    CAPTAIN BUCKFAST'S CYCLING TIPS - GUARANTEED TO WORK! 1 OUT OF 10 RACING CYCLISTS AGREE!
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