Upgrade to Shimano 105 can someone please help?

mattrixdesign2
mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
edited February 2012 in Workshop
Can someone confirm if all of these will work together?

Shimano STI Levers 105 Silver 5700 with cables Double
Shimano 105 Black (5700) 10 Dbl Fr Gear Braze-on
Shimano 105 Black (5700) 10 Dbl Fr Gear Braze-on - NOT SURE IF I NEED LONG OR SMALL?!
Shimano 10 Speed 4601 Tiagra Chain
Shimano 10 Spd Tiagra 4600 Cassette 11-25

I currently have 105 Calipers (bought last year) and an FSA Chainset.

This is my current bike...

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBC ... nuItemId=0

...Any thing else needed for the change over, other than bar tape! Happy to do it my self, have some decent cable cutters and some bike knowledge. Putting new tape on will be the harderst part.

Comments

  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    Yes it will all work. It's all Shimano, its all 5700, it'll all be very simple. Only other things you will need are cable inners and outers , grease, copperslip and a torque wrench.

    If your brakes are 5700 it'll mean the pull ratios are fine as well.

    I think a short cage rear mech will be fine as you're going to 25 - I think anything more may need a long cage.

    HTH

    Y
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    The brakes are 5700 - so that bit is OK.

    The levers "Comes complete with silicon greased cables to further reduce shift friction and increase service life" - so it looks like I have what a need.

    All this comes to £230 - another option would be do buy the full group and sell the spare parts off!

    Thanks
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    Cool if they come with cables but they won't come with outers - couple of pounds at the LBS - nothing major. You'll also need ferrules (the funny things at the end of the cables).

    New bar tape as well? Naturally new bolts to replace old stuff that'll let the look of the new shifters and mechs down.

    You could bt teh full gruippo and sell the other oarts off but you have to weigh up the fag factor of buying the gruppo, advertising the bits you don't need, taking piccies, dealing with inane questions, waiting for payment, parcelling up, going down the post office, dealing with inane "where are my parts" questions, etc etc. All for £20.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    Check out on YouTube how to a neat job on the bar tape , considering that you will need to route both brake and gear cable underneath the tape now with 5700...
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    JGSI wrote:
    Check out on YouTube how to a neat job on the bar tape , considering that you will need to route both brake and gear cable underneath the tape now with 5700...

    Is it OK to "recycle" bar tape, i.e. can I use what I take off? Not sure on this cable routing, could be fun :cry:
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    Get new... re - using the old tape never works... well not for me anyways and there is nothing like brand new tape.... Youtube has plenty of tutorials... use the old tape to practise with.. especially the canny trick of pro rider mechanics of the figure of 8 around the hoods eliminating the need for that 2 inch bit of tape to hide the 'gap' .
    There is one vid of a Liquigas mechanic re wrapping in about 50 seconds..... but then again he probably has 10 bikes to do and can't afford to pee about like the rest of us....
    The cable routing needs some electrical tape to hold cables in place... but it is a LOT neater with the finished result.
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    JGSI wrote:
    Get new... re - using the old tape never works... well not for me anyways and there is nothing like brand new tape.... Youtube has plenty of tutorials... use the old tape to practise with.. especially the canny trick of pro rider mechanics of the figure of 8 around the hoods eliminating the need for that 2 inch bit of tape to hide the 'gap' .
    There is one vid of a Liquigas mechanic re wrapping in about 50 seconds..... but then again he probably has 10 bikes to do and can't afford to pee about like the rest of us....
    The cable routing needs some electrical tape to hold cables in place... but it is a LOT neater with the finished result.

    That is what I was thinking, using the old bar tape, to practice with, then see how it sits, when I had to remove it a few months ago to replace a brake cable I could not get my head around how to get it around the hoods, I managed something but it was not quite right.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    mattrixdesign2 wrote:
    JGSI wrote:
    Check out on YouTube how to a neat job on the bar tape , considering that you will need to route both brake and gear cable underneath the tape now with 5700...

    Is it OK to "recycle" bar tape, i.e. can I use what I take off? Not sure on this cable routing, could be fun :cry:

    Yup - no worries at all so long as you are careful getting it off, but its not as nice as having new tape.

    Park Tools website also has tutorials about this. Just take your time, make sure you get the tape wrapped in the right direction dependant on which bar you are doing and all will be fine.

    If it looks gash just take it off and start again.
  • andy46
    andy46 Posts: 1,666
    This is a pretty good video, part 1 of 2

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psmxYxmE3T8
    2019 Ribble CGR SL

    2015 Specialized Roubaix Sport sl4

    2014 Specialized Allez Sport
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    I am a tool, when I loaded up the basket I added the front mech as a Braize on type!!! It should be a clamp type, which I knew but forgot to change.

    What is the best solution for this, swap it out for a clamp type? Or buy an adapter (it could give me more choice if ever I was to change frames?)

    What size clamp type or clamp would I need for an Allez 2010? Are the addtional clamp/adapters a secure choice?

    Thanks
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    I'd get a clamp adaptor. Much cheaper than buying a new front mech, I think chainreacctioncycles sell some "brand x" ones for about £4.

    Specialized will be a 34.9mm seat tube I think.
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    styxd wrote:
    I'd get a clamp adaptor. Much cheaper than buying a new front mech, I think chainreacctioncycles sell some "brand x" ones for about £4.

    Specialized will be a 34.9mm seat tube I think.

    They will swap the Mech, but also offered the adapter... so cost is not the issue, do the adapters work fine, do they make setting up, adjustment harder? Do they stay in place?
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Adaptors work fine. They dont make any difference to setup, adjustment etc.
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    styxd wrote:
    Adaptors work fine. They dont make any difference to setup, adjustment etc.

    Thanks
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    the advantage of getting an adapter is it will allow you to use a k-edge or whatever chain catcher if you wish. it bolts on with the mech bolt. you can't do that with a band on.
    http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/k-edge-chain-catcher-review-24853?img=1
  • mattrixdesign2
    mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
    That looks like a good idea, my bike currently has a cheap plastic one around the seat tube!

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