Rs10 wheels - tech drawing query
knack-knees
Posts: 56
Just replaced bearings in rear hub for the first time. The cassette side ones were dark and dull and finished, the left side were bright and shiny.
When I put the new bearings in (cassette side) I used the shimano tech doc for parts replacement order but I have a query - if you look at:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 686101.pdf
It says Seal ring (#10) goes in before bearings (4) then the cone/lock nuts (3) secure onto the bearings - is this right? I reckon the bearings are exposed in this way. Surely bearing, seal then cone/lock nut?
Any ideas
When I put the new bearings in (cassette side) I used the shimano tech doc for parts replacement order but I have a query - if you look at:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 686101.pdf
It says Seal ring (#10) goes in before bearings (4) then the cone/lock nuts (3) secure onto the bearings - is this right? I reckon the bearings are exposed in this way. Surely bearing, seal then cone/lock nut?
Any ideas
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Comments
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Yeh pretty sure it's the latter - bearing, seal and then cone/lock nut. One thing to watch out for is which way the seal goes. I seem to remember it being the opposite way to what I originally thought. I think the lip points outwards, if that makes sense. Hopefully my bad ascii art helps...
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10 is part of the freehub and should not be removed. The bearing surface is inside it so the balls should be fitted into the freehub behind the seal ring (10). The cone forms a labyrinth seal with the ring which does not work too well, hence the bearing problem on this side. Some more expensive versions have a rubber seal fitted in here. My WH540s do but water still gets in.0
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Thanks gents - I agree the lip faces outwards per your (excellent) drawing. I did try the other way but it wont seat. The cassette side cone is too narrow to cover the bearings and water/dirt would just hop in there.
Wish shimano tech docs were right though!
Next challenge is cone tightening without binding.0