Centaur rear mech problems

koshea1987
koshea1987 Posts: 11
edited December 2011 in Workshop
Hi,
I have Centaur rear mech (10sp, '02 model) with a kmc x10l chain setup. Recently I have had problems with the mech skipping/hoping gears especially between sprocket no. 7 to 10 on the 39 ring. I have tried the usual i.e. hanger alignment, limit screws and cable adjuster but just can't get reliable shifting!
I would appreciate any suggestions - maybe I should invest in the new centaur 2012 rear mechs?!
K

Comments

  • Wirral_paul
    Wirral_paul Posts: 2,476
    Have you checked the chain and sprockets for wear??

    10 speed Centaur from 2002?? I thought it was much later when they went to 10 speed
  • It might have been a bit later alright. I have a new kmc chain and the cassette is new also.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    If you go for a new mech, go for a 2010 or earlier. The 2011 and 2012 have slightly different cable pull (matches the 11 speed kit).

    Could it be the cable? Maybe sticking or dirty under the BB?
  • Thanks for the advice on the new Centaur rear mechs, I was pretty close to buying one of those! I might just do an overhaul from the shifter down.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    There's quite a few anecdotal posts that say they work well enough - but officially they're incompatible and I've had an email from Campag confirming it (I was building a 10 speed and had 2010 levers).

    There are quite a few old-logo 2010 mechs knocking about unused on ebay though.
  • koshea1987 wrote:
    Thanks for the advice on the new Centaur rear mechs, I was pretty close to buying one of those! I might just do an overhaul from the shifter down.

    The problem is never the derailleur... they are bombproof, they can last 100 years of intensive use if decently maintained
    left the forum March 2023
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Is the cable new? If in any doubt whip it out and give it a good looking at, then reinstall it ensuring it's properly located at the shifter end, and goes the correct side of the pinch bolt at the mech.

    My 105 shifting went progressively tits up recently and in the end I discovered the cable was in the process of disintegrating inside the shifter.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    I've been running a 2011 rear mech with older 10 speed Ergos - works no problem. Very rarely is the problem with the mech itself unless its been damaged - more likely the cables, chain, sprocket or frame alignment.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    g00se wrote:
    If you go for a new mech, go for a 2010 or earlier. The 2011 and 2012 have slightly different cable pull (matches the 11 speed kit).

    Could it be the cable? Maybe sticking or dirty under the BB?

    How can a rear mech possibly do this it's a dumb component with a top and a bottom limit, it'll stop wherever the shifters tell it to!
  • Thanks all for the info, I'll do as suggested with the cables etc. and see how it goes.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Flasher wrote:
    g00se wrote:
    If you go for a new mech, go for a 2010 or earlier. The 2011 and 2012 have slightly different cable pull (matches the 11 speed kit).

    Could it be the cable? Maybe sticking or dirty under the BB?

    How can a rear mech possibly do this it's a dumb component with a top and a bottom limit, it'll stop wherever the shifters tell it to!

    In that case, you could use an 8 speed Shimano rear mech on a 11 speed Campag cassette and levers? Don't think so...

    For any mech, a given amount of cable pull will result in a specific amount of deflection. The 2011 10-speed levers pull a fraction less then the pre-2011 levers, so the 2011 mech needs to deflect a fraction more. Though, in this case, as another poster says, the tolerances are enough that it hadn't effected him. But it's still the case that the deflection is different, Campag confirmed it in an email.
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    g00se wrote:
    Flasher wrote:
    g00se wrote:
    If you go for a new mech, go for a 2010 or earlier. The 2011 and 2012 have slightly different cable pull (matches the 11 speed kit).

    Could it be the cable? Maybe sticking or dirty under the BB?

    How can a rear mech possibly do this it's a dumb component with a top and a bottom limit, it'll stop wherever the shifters tell it to!

    In that case, you could use an 8 speed Shimano rear mech on a 11 speed Campag cassette and levers? Don't think so...

    For any mech, a given amount of cable pull will result in a specific amount of deflection. The 2011 10-speed levers pull a fraction less then the pre-2011 levers, so the 2011 mech needs to deflect a fraction more. Though, in this case, as another poster says, the tolerances are enough that it hadn't effected him. But it's still the case that the deflection is different, Campag confirmed it in an email.

    Well apparently you can, (although It would upset my aesthetic sensibilities), not only with a JTEK shiftmate, scroll down a bit:

    http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index ... 66737.html

    Anyway why would 2011 speed shifters pull a different amount than pre 2011, spacing on the cassette hasn't changed.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Flasher wrote:
    Well apparently you can, (although It would upset my aesthetic sensibilities), not only with a JTEK shiftmate, scroll down a bit:

    http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index ... 66737.html

    I know - but the need of a shiftmate just stresses the point that the mech isn't 'dumb'. You can do similar 'hubub' tricks of connecting the cable at a different location to change the amount of effective cable pull.
    Flasher wrote:
    Anyway why would 2011 speed shifters pull a different amount than pre 2011, spacing on the cassette hasn't changed.

    So that more of the 2011 10-speed shifter innards can be shared with the 11-speed shifter innards (Powershift that is). All the 10 speed kit post 2011 is Powershift (Veloce and Centaur)- and the 11 speed Athena is too. 10-speed and 11-speed Powershift levers all now pull the same amount of cable per click.

    As all the 10-speed and 11-speed Powershift groupsets are now limited to Powershift and Powertorque kit, it is a lot cheaper to produce. The only tooling difference is for the 10-speed vs 11-speed rear mech, and the number of ratchets clicks inside the right ergo. Other than that, it's materials and finish. Brake calipers still differ in that Athena shares the skeleton design of the other 11-speed kit. But Centaur and Veloce don't come in that option any more and are identical apart from Veloce not using cartridge pads.
  • Has anyone suggested replacement of the jockey wheels? Wear can cause shifting probs. Campag Centaur has no bearings in theirs replacements from Tacx do and you can get 'em for around 8 squids.
    Colnago C60 SRAM eTap, Colnago C40, Milani 107E, BMC Pro Machine, Trek Madone, Viner Gladius,
    Bizango 29er
  • Hello,
    I have just started to fit new campag gear cables - I am finding the ferrules are very hard to fit.
    Do I need to apply much force to get these to seat properly? Do I need to use a hammer!
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Hammer! NO!

    Are you sure you haven't mixed the brake and gear cable outers up?

    Also, with the new style levers, you don't need ferrules going into the levers themselves...
  • I have the old style levers and the new cable set (low friction). It is just proving difficult to get the gear housing (smaller diameter than the brake) past the pinch point on the ferrule.
  • lmrt
    lmrt Posts: 935
    Hi Koshea. I had the same problem brewing for a while and I dealt with it a few weeks ago. Convinced myself it was the mech (Centaur 10speed). Swapped it for a brand new Xenon - same problem. I suppose I secretly knew it was the cables but didn't want the hassle of doing the job properly. Anyway, I replaced the inner and outer cables (both with new campag) and the mech ran perfectly straight away. If I understand your recent post correctly, I too found the inner cable quite tight to get through the cable ferrules but it did go through. I'm guessing they make it tight to try to keep the rain and road cr*p out. How did you get on?