Cassette wobbling

symo
symo Posts: 1,743
edited November 2011 in Workshop
Hi,

Was adjusting the rear derailleur and noticed that the cassette appeared to wobble on it's axle as it was turning. Retightened the lockring to no effect.

Any suggestions peeps?
+++++++++++++++++++++
we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    they often do.

    if there is no play dont worry.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 21,332
    nicklouse wrote:
    they often do.

    if there is no play dont worry.
    My Ultremo cassette on Ksyrium Elite hubs did (and there was a little play) - I only discovered it having been trying to find the source of the rattle for some time. Thread here. To sum that thread up, I solved the looseness/rattle by using an extra washer/spacer.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    yep that would be play. and as a 10spd shimano cassette needs a spacer fitting as the base is shorter than the 8/9/10spd freebody. as does a cassette on a Mavic body (may need two).

    as covered here viewtopic.php?f=30008&t=12586223
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • symo
    symo Posts: 1,743
    Thanks for the replies guys. The problem is somewhat exacerbated at the moment, started cycling back from outlaws this afternoon, and then the was loud clinking reverberating through the frame. It was either the BB or rear axle so when a downhill came I stopped pedalling, the noises continued. I stopped immediately, and then I span the rear whilst holding the bike up. It sounds like the rear bearing in the RS10 was not having fun even without weight on it.

    Worth taking it off, stripping it down and replacing the bearings? Had the wheels two years.
    +++++++++++++++++++++
    we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

    Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.
  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 21,332
    symo wrote:
    Thanks for the replies guys. The problem is somewhat exacerbated at the moment, started cycling back from outlaws this afternoon, and then the was loud clinking reverberating through the frame. It was either the BB or rear axle so when a downhill came I stopped pedalling, the noises continued. I stopped immediately, and then I span the rear whilst holding the bike up. It sounds like the rear bearing in the RS10 was not having fun even without weight on it.
    I was amazed how much noise my loose cassette made, though I didn't try that test. But riding along on anything but the smoothest surfaces I was getting sounds as if all the nuts & bolts on the bike had come loose.
  • symo
    symo Posts: 1,743
    Thanks for the link. Do you know of anywhere I can but a set of spacers? I am also going to buy a set of cone spanners and take the RS10's to pieces, I am also going to swap my Easton EA50's on and try it on a ride to check it was the RS10's.
    +++++++++++++++++++++
    we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

    Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    if the cassette is tight you do not need any spacers. is there any free movement? if no then that is just the way it is.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • symo
    symo Posts: 1,743
    Cassette itself is tight, like I said there appears to be an issue with rear bearings which means an investment in some cone spanners to open those puppies up and replace the ball bearings.
    +++++++++++++++++++++
    we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

    Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    IIRC you'll need to take off the cassette / freehub to get easier access to the drive side bearing. Apart from that, quite easy to service.

    If it's feeling very rough though, it's possible the bearings are disintegrating. That won't have done the races any good and you might be needing a new hub. I've got my fingers crossed for you.

    I first had the bearings out of my RS10's after 2 years only to find they were still smooth, shiny and properly greased.
    All of this is making me want to give them a going over before winter arrives though.
  • symo
    symo Posts: 1,743
    TBH I am a serial bike abuser and when I can be arse I am really good, the bikes are spotless, followed by months of neglect. Will try to open them up this coming weekend and see if the race ways are fucked. If they are it may be time for a new set of PX Model B's as at least they are sealed bearings.
    +++++++++++++++++++++
    we are the proud, the few, Descendents.

    Panama - finally putting a nail in the economic theory of the trickle down effect.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    They are cartridge bearings as opposed to cup and cone; not sure if the seals are any more effective. Actually, just been reading the thread on model B bearing replacement, so I suspect they may be less so...

    I like being able to take my bearings to bits to clean, regrease and adjust.