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Easton EA30 Wheels - how to remove the freehub

mikeneticmikenetic Posts: 486
edited February 2013 in Workshop
Must admit, I'm a bit baffled with this one.

I've inherited a set of EA30 Custom wheels and hubs, and I'd like to check the condition of the freehub pawls and their lubrication.

On the drive side of the rear axle is a cap you can simply pull off, but underneath is a bearing that looks like it's pressed inside the freehub itself. There are no flats to unscrew anything (the axle appears unthreaded), nor are there any internal surface in the axle to do a similar job with Allen keys.

Having drawn a complete blank on Easton's website I'm at a loss as how to procede. Is this an axle that you have to drift out from the neutral side and then press the bearings back in? Is there some sort of concealed fixing holding the freehub in place?

Bah! :)

Posts

  • drudru Posts: 1,341
    Easton site always used to have exploded diagrams for all the wheels (up til 6 months ago at least)

    Do you know what hubs these are built on? R2/R3/R4?
  • mikeneticmikenetic Posts: 486
    I've had a look at the exploded diagrams, and unfortunately there's nothing that resembles my hub.

    I've dropped their tech support an email to see if they can help out.
  • Slight apologies for bumping my own thread, but I got this sorted in the end. As there appears to be almost no information about these wheels anywhere then it may be of use to someone else in future.

    The Easton EA30 custom wheels are built on what appears to be a variation of the current Circuit C1 hubs. The disassembly instructions are the same (remove end caps by pulling them off the axle, drift out bearings by tapping the axle) and the correct replacement freehub is the Easton Circuit one sold by Chain Reaction (it's the V1 i.e. cheap, one). Instructions are available via the Easton website.

    Removing the freehub is a bit tricksy, as there's a 12mm allen bolt with the head pointing towards the centre of the hub, so you need to access it from the non-drive side of the hub. Also, my bolt was secured with threadlock, despite Easton saying grease should be used.

    Still, with a bit of research, the courage of my convictions and a bearing press made from £2.99 of rod, nuts and washers I replaced the dodgy freehub and the wheel bearings with no dramas.
  • hi

    thanks for the post had trouble getting any info on these wheels and hubs. this link may help http://www.eastoncycling.com/bike/wp-co ... ear_C1.pdf
  • Thanks for the post. :)

    I was struggling with removal of the ody of my Easton Circuits, but thanks to this info I managed to figure out I had to tap out the axis from the drive side to clear the fixing bolt of the body. Now omwt hardware store for an 12mm key
  • smoggystevesmoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    deleted
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