To float or not to float?

Peddle Up!
Peddle Up! Posts: 2,040
edited October 2011 in Road beginners
I’ve recently switched to a pair of SpeedPlay X pedals (SP) from SPD SLs. My flat feet mean that a comfortable position for long rides with the SPD SLs put my heel against the crank so I needed to use spacers – a bit of a bodge. The optional longer axels on the SPs give me the clearance I need and the benefit of easier clipping-in.

The high degree of float on the SPs is new to me. With the SPD SLs I had to fiddle with them for ages to get the cleat position right and along the way found out that what was a good position for a 25 mile ride could leave me with sore knees after 60 miles!

What are the pros and cons of having a high degree of float? At maximum float the feeling is weird (described as “pedalling on ice”) but I could get used to it. I have the option to lock it down, all the way if necessary, but is a reasonable degree of float a bad thing? To be clear I’m not talking about losing microseconds on a TT, just keeping the legs in good shape for a solid ride. :) Thanks.
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Comments

  • Simonhi
    Simonhi Posts: 229
    I'm also new to Speedplays (and road riding) although not new to riding clipped in and was wondering this.

    Having been used to a certain amount of sprung float from my CB Eggbeaters It surprised me the "dancing on ice" feel you get when maximum float is allowed. I did find that after a few rides that feeling kind of went and now I find my CB pedals too restrictive.

    So my opinion, not that it counts for much being such a noob, stick with it if you didn't find it too weird to begin with.

    I also figured that the least resistance in allowing my foot angle to micro adjust as required through the pedal stroke can only be a good thing, allowing a more natural movement than one that is restricted due to tiny grubs screws.

    Anyways, it seems to work for me at the moment.

    Cheers,

    SI :-)
  • Dmak
    Dmak Posts: 445
    More float just means less stress on the knee joints should the peddles not be set up completely right. This is difficult to achieve unless you get fitted properly.

    I presume also that even with proper fitting, some peoples knees just need a bit of float to be comfy.

    Nice work on forking out for great peddles, I'd suggest dedicating a ride to setting them up, will involve many stops and people giving you odd looks but just keep tweaking until things feel just right. :D
  • Peddle Up!
    Peddle Up! Posts: 2,040
    Dmak wrote:
    More float just means less stress on the knee joints should the peddles not be set up completely right. This is difficult to achieve unless you get fitted properly.

    I presume also that even with proper fitting, some peoples knees just need a bit of float to be comfy.

    Nice work on forking out for great peddles, I'd suggest dedicating a ride to setting them up, will involve many stops and people giving you odd looks but just keep tweaking until things feel just right. :D

    I guess free float is effectively the state of pedalling on flats (without toe clips), although I've not studied how my feet move during a ride (watch that lamppost! :shock: ).

    I'm in the tweaking phase now. I rode an event last Sunday and would stop, a group would cycle by, I'd catch them up and stop again. They must have wondered what was going on. :D
    Purveyor of "up" :)
  • t5nel
    t5nel Posts: 365
    Peddle Up! wrote:
    I guess free float is effectively the state of pedalling on flats (without toe clips), although I've not studied how my feet move during a ride (watch that lamppost! :shock: ).

    You get a lot more movement during the power stroke with pedal float. The interface between a shoe and flat pedal is actually pretty grippy so any movement is usually confined to the flex of the shoe sole and upper. However with flats you can and do often readjust foot position on the pedal between power strokes. THis is one of the big differences between flats and a mechanical fixing.

    Tim
    My bikes
    MTB - 1997 Kona Kula
    Hybrid - Kona Dew Deluxe
    Road - 2011 Ribble Gran Fondo, Omega Matrix Ultegra
  • From a personal perspective -

    I use Speedplays too to protect my knees not for performance reasons. I used them for two years on my hybrid and just set them with the heel in limit srew set just enough to stop my heels hitting the chainstays. A few months ago I bought a Spesh Sectuer and I think it must be because of the shorter distance between the cranks and altered Q angle but I found a little medial (inside) knee pain. I tightened up the heel in grub srew and it's much better.

    As a physio -

    I would say that for most people with normal knees and lower limb biomechanics the more free float the better as it will allow your lower limb to find it's own natural position and adjust as and when it wishes to. For anyone with altered mechanics (e.g. unusual alingments of segments, injuries, restricted range of motion etc) then you may find it better to lock the float down to allow movements which your knees need but restrict movements which are unhealthy (re my own experience re heel in above).

    The $64000 dollar question- how do you know which you are ... ?

    Well if you are sensible and careful and take it very very gently and don't have any major knee/lower limb problems - over time - and with cautious adjustments (as I did above) you should find what's right for you. A good professional fit including cleat adjustment though will be much quicker and avoid any risk you might agravate any injury or misalingment during the exporation phase.

    Hope this helps
  • hopper1
    hopper1 Posts: 4,389
    I just left my Speedplays with most of the available float.
    Having float (IMHO) can't hurt my knees... Dialling it out can!
    I found when I dialled out more of the float I used to inadvertantly unclip, when reaching for my bottle!
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