High Performance Road-Specific Bike Lights

ai_1
ai_1 Posts: 3,060
edited February 2012 in Road buying advice
Is it just me or is there a big gap in the offerings from light manufacturers where there should be a selection of high performance bike lights for road use?

Most high powered front bike lights are best suited to off-road use. They've got loads of power but a circular beam. That's fine if you need to see everything around you and there's no-one coming the opposite direction. For road cycling there's no need to illuminate the sky to see overhanging branches, etc. Instead we want as much light as possible on the road and we want even coverage out a good distance ahead. Also very importantly, we want to be seen but we don't want to blind oncoming traffic.

Essentially what we want is something with lots of power but controlled using properly designed optics. Something that performs like a car headlight.

I haven't seen many lights that fill this need. The majority of the lights I've seen for sale have lots of power, run time and different light levels/modes but as far as I can tell the optics consist of basic lenses and reflectors, producing circular beams, either spot, flood or a bit of both.

I have found two candidates that seem to be more or less what I'm looking for. They're both designed to meet the German StVZO bike lighting standards. Hopefully this standard will result in more lights of this sort from other manufacturers in the near future. If you know of any others that are already for sale I'd appreciate the info!

The first one I've found is the Philips Saferide 80 Lux. This isn't the most exciting looking of lights but it gets great reviews. I would prefer if it was a little more compact which should be possible with Li-Ion cells but that's not the end of the world. Light levels are 20 Lux on low and 80 Lux at high.
http://www.bikelight.philips.de/fahrradlicht-led-batterie/index.html

The second is the Trelock LS 950. This one is definitely slicker in appearance and has some extra functionality like 5 light levels from 10 Lux to 70 Lux and a battery duration readout but the light quality has to be the decider and according to reviews the Philips beats it there.
http://www.trelock.de/web/en/produkte/fahrrad-beleuchtung/batterie-frontscheinwerfer/8002095_LS_950_ION.php

Comments

  • APIII
    APIII Posts: 2,010
    Something like this you mean?
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/exposure-strada-mk3-front-light/

    I agree though, there aren't too many to choose from. Some of us do ride out in the sticks, so need a high output light with a better beam pattern.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    I guess the market isnt massive for kick ass front lights.

    Most commuters tend to be in cities - so they're more to be seen, rather than to see where they are going ?

    When i use lights I use them mainly for country lanes and off road - so I'm happy to strap on a Dealextreme special rather than pay megabucks for the bike specific designs ?

    (also I can use the torches out and about too. Cant do that with a bike lamp)
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Whilst I get the OP's point, I'm pretty happy with my Ayups. Yes the beams are "round" but with two, I can adjust them to get the pattern I'm happy with.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Supernova airstream...

    300 lumens but you can aim it almost level without blinding oncoming traffic as the beam is mustache shape rather than round.

    It's also light and last a good long time.



    BUY ONE
  • Wrath Rob
    Wrath Rob Posts: 2,918
    Whilst I get the OP's point, I'm pretty happy with my Ayups. Yes the beams are "round" but with two, I can adjust them to get the pattern I'm happy with.
    +1 for the Ayups. The lights are small and compact, with great range and plenty of power. They've just won the MBUK light test, have a look at the reviews on here.

    My only niggle is that the battery pack ends up being strapped to the frame (I've got a Garmin on the stem so can't strap it there), and for larger section frames the strap isn't quite long enough and the pack starts sliding up and down. Given the upsides I'll happily settle for that as the only downside.
    FCN3: Titanium Qoroz.
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    I went for two 900lumen magicshine lights after reading the "what lights" thread in the MTB section. I ride on unlit country lanes and these lights are superb! £90 all in with chargers and batteries and they've lasted 2 years now. Make riding at night a much more enjoyable experience. I also like to have a small head torch so you can look to the sides as well.

    teamed up with two 1 watt smart lunar rear lights and cars slow right down, I think it's because I look like a motorbike from a distance.

    Edit : You do need to be careful not to blind oncoming traffic with the above set up, just make sure the torches are angled correctly
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Wrath Rob wrote:
    My only niggle is that the battery pack ends up being strapped to the frame (I've got a Garmin on the stem so can't strap it there), and for larger section frames the strap isn't quite long enough and the pack starts sliding up and down. Given the upsides I'll happily settle for that as the only downside.

    You could probably whack it into a converted bidon and use the (optional) extension cable. Mine's on the stem as I only have a Garmin Forerunner 305
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Wrath Rob
    Wrath Rob Posts: 2,918
    Wrath Rob wrote:
    My only niggle is that the battery pack ends up being strapped to the frame (I've got a Garmin on the stem so can't strap it there), and for larger section frames the strap isn't quite long enough and the pack starts sliding up and down. Given the upsides I'll happily settle for that as the only downside.

    You could probably whack it into a converted bidon and use the (optional) extension cable. Mine's on the stem as I only have a Garmin Forerunner 305
    Could do, but have water in one and tools in the other. Its not that big an issue and the benefits from the lights far outweigh the small downside.
    FCN3: Titanium Qoroz.
  • nferrar
    nferrar Posts: 2,511
    The two obvious choices for this have already been mentioned - Ay-Ups with the intermediate beam or Exposure Strada's, I have both (just recently got the Strada to replace the Ay-Ups as mine are the 2009 ones and not quite bright enough for fast descending at night). Both out out a lot of light in relatively narrow beams and give a decent throw so work well on the road and cut down on dazzling cars (especially if you use the remote switch with the Strada). I use magicshine's on my MTB and they're just way too floody for the road IMO, yes they work but you'll dazzle drivers and a blinded driver isn't just a hazard to themselves.

    I used to mount my Ay-Up battery in front of the head tube (I had a Garmin on the stem to), worked OK as the calipers just cleared it.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Wrath Rob wrote:
    Wrath Rob wrote:
    My only niggle is that the battery pack ends up being strapped to the frame (I've got a Garmin on the stem so can't strap it there), and for larger section frames the strap isn't quite long enough and the pack starts sliding up and down. Given the upsides I'll happily settle for that as the only downside.

    You could probably whack it into a converted bidon and use the (optional) extension cable. Mine's on the stem as I only have a Garmin Forerunner 305
    Could do, but have water in one and tools in the other. Its not that big an issue and the benefits from the lights far outweigh the small downside.

    What - water - in a bidon??? :shock: Well there's your problem right there... :roll: :wink::wink::wink::wink:
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    The Trelock LS950 got 'Best front light' in the latest C+ issue, the Philips not in the test btw ...
  • More than happy using my Exposure MaxxD(use it for MTB as well) on the road. I ride on several unlit roads and cars can actually see you coming and dip their lights which is great on narrow roads. Best bet for a self contained light is something from Exposure.

    Maybe something like a 300 lumen joystick might be worth trying?

    Also my hope vision 1 is more than adequate for steady commuting, I just prefer to have a really bright light that makes drivers notice me
    Focus Cayo Pro
    Cotic Soul custom
    Merida Cross 4
    Planet X Dirty Disco custom cyclocross
    Tern D8 clown bike
  • nferrar
    nferrar Posts: 2,511
    300 lumens isn't enough for a training ride in unlit country roads, even with the 625 lumen Strada there's a few descents where I'd want a bit more. You sure you aren't getting confused with them flashing you because you're dazzling them? Cars pretty much always dip headlights for me whatever light I'm using (you'll always have the odd twonk that doesn't), I don't think how bright your own lights are has much to do with it.
  • These moon lights are amazing check them out
    http://www.zovelo.co.uk/xp-300-shield-50-light-set.html
    www.zovelo.co.uk
    LEGENDARY CUSTOMER SERVICE
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Take a look at dynamo lights, the German market is riddled with them.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • dawebbo
    dawebbo Posts: 456
    Echo the comment on the dynamo lights. I was chatting to a guy in RP the other night who was using them, they were awesome. I think it was a schmidt hub?
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Hub dynamos are probably a good idea but pricey !
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    cougie wrote:
    Hub dynamos are probably a good idea but pricey !

    Circa £50 for the hub. Lights vary quite a bit in price, as with their battery-powered cousins.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • Barteos
    Barteos Posts: 657
    All you need is a homemade (5 min job) steel or aluminium hood/peak that you attach to your light with a cable tie or a sticky velcro strip.

    Have been using one made of a beer can for a few years with various lights and it works perfectly OK.

    IMG_1109.JPG
    IMG_1110.JPG
  • Top marks ..... lol ..... so easy yet so effective.
  • I have the cheaper model of the trelock, build quality and clamp are excellent. Beam is good and as you are after it is one of the few manufacturers that actually direct the beam like a car headlight not just go for lumens output.
  • Electron Terra 2 do the job for me and I commute down unlit country lanes and through town. Two lamps which illuminate well and also provide the option of having 1 fixed and the other flashing. £90 is a good price as well.
  • Agree about the terra 2 for unlit country lanes i have just refitted them to my commuter. Excellent lights.
  • My 12 mile commute is all on unlit backroads. After masses of research I went for the 900 lumen Exposure Toro (new vsn 975) after dithering between that and the 600 lumen Strada.

    No regrets. Superb for commutes and I regularly do training rides in the dark. I would agree that the 600l Strada wouldn't cut it on downhills.

    Lumens isn't everything but the true measure is how much light do you get on a pitch black wet road which seems to suck the life out of even a very bright light. The Toro is superb in this respect.

    The self-contained nature (no extra wires or batteries) of the Exposure range make them a no brainer for me.

    Love the Guinness cowling - mine's a Red Bull version! Seriously though when standing for steep hills the eye-dazzle is a problem otherwise.
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    The idea of a 'lamp shade' is good but please tell me that you have protected the leading edge of the cut tin. If that collided with someone or fell onto someone it could cause very serious damage. Reminded me when I was a youngster with aluminium mudguards - the bike fell over when I was cleaning it and the leading edge of the mudguard nearly sliced my index finger off. You may well get into trouble with pc plod for that contraption.

    I agree with some of the earlier posts, for city riding the more visible you can make yourself without dazzling oncoming motorists the better. Hope have just brought out new four and eight cell lights - the R8 pumping out a rather crazy 2000 lumens...

    Peter
  • proto
    proto Posts: 1,483
    Supernova airstream...

    300 lumens but you can aim it almost level without blinding oncoming traffic as the beam is mustache shape rather than round.

    It's also light and last a good long time.


    BUY ONE

    Supernova Airstream

    Yep, have to agree. A really great light, powerful, but it puts the light where you want it, on the road not in the trees.

    I think the German market version is 300 lumens, but the international market version is 370. Or something like that.

    BUY ONE!
  • ai_1
    ai_1 Posts: 3,060
    Thanks for all your comments guys, a few months late - sorry
    Just to follow up on the original post:

    I got a Philips Saferide 80 lux in the end. Overall I'm happy with it and I think I got the best light for my needs but I do have two big reservations.

    1. The mount design and construction are poor compared to the rest of the light. My light has parted company with the bike twice. The first time was the first time I used it and was caused by not pushing the light all the way onto the mount (it feels like it's snapped into place before it's fully engaged. Now I double check every time) and once when I bunny hopped a speed bump. In that case I know it had been properly engaged. Thankfully the light itself is very sturdy and after bouncing along the road ended up with only cosmetic damage from these incidents.

    2. The duration at full power is insufficient. I rarely do more than 90mins in the dark but even for that I need to do a little power manangement. It seems the timer on some of these lights (same name, different batches) only allows 70 mins at high power before dropping you to low power (20 lux) which will then last another few hours. Others last 2hrs before dropping to low power. Mine only lasts 70 mins. The low power setting is still adequate in the dry but in the wet I want to use hi power the whole time. You can't override the timer. It resets when you re-charge.

    On the plus side however, the beam is excellent. On hi power it's not as good as a pair of car headlights but it's not as far behind as you might expect. Basically you get a very even intensity pool of light on the ground to a distance of about 30m ahead of you which drops gradually from there out to maybe 70m. The lateral spread is well controlled so that it covers a width of about 2 lanes and a hard shoulder starting a short distance ahead of the bike. There's enough light spilled above the cut-off to make you very visible and illuminate signs etc but without blinding oncomers. I've yet to be flashed by oncoming traffic so I'm pretty sure I'm not upsetting anyone and I definitely have far less trouble with drivers leaving their high beams on - I think they presume I'm a motorbike and take no more notice.

    If this LED/reflector set was combined with higher capacity, more compact lithium cells and a better mount this would be the ideal bike light. As it stands it's not perfect but the most important factor, the light beam is pretty close. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it unless the duration is a deal breaker.

    So in summary:

    Good - Beam, light construction, price
    Bad - Duration at hi power, bar mount

    Aidan
  • Velonutter
    Velonutter Posts: 2,437
    A lot of our Thursday night Chain Gang use the BikeRay III from http://www.lightslightslights.co.uk/bik ... -lumen-new

    1300 Lumen for £99 and we all get about 2.5-3 hours before the battery indicator tells us we are on half battery.
  • ai_1
    ai_1 Posts: 3,060
    Velonutter wrote:
    A lot of our Thursday night Chain Gang use the BikeRay III from http://www.lightslightslights.co.uk/bik ... -lumen-new

    1300 Lumen for £99 and we all get about 2.5-3 hours before the battery indicator tells us we are on half battery.
    In my opinion this type of light is not suitable for road use.
    They produce lots of light but it's delivered in a really basic symetrical beam meaning the foreground will be much brighter than the distance (unnecessary waste of light and makes your night vision less effective) unless there's a defined spot which you can aim in the distance at the expense of field of view. A symetrical beam will always be a massive compromise.
    However, my biggest problem with this type of light being used on the road is that they blind all other road users, cars, bikes, pedestrians..... There's no beam cutoff so in order to put useful light on the road ahead you have to spill massive amounts of light into the eyes of oncoming traffic. You can use a very tight spot beam but I think that makes you feel like you're cycling down a claustraphobic tunnel and it doesn't give you any peripheral vision which I don't consider safe. Others earlier in the thread suggested DIY cutoffs. I haven't tried this so I don't know how effective it is. I'm sure it would be a big improvement but I doubt it fully solves the problem, perhaps I'm wrong.

    P.S. The independent tests I've seen indicate that most budget LED lights advertising 1000+ lumens are massively over-rated and actually produce somewhere in the region of half what they claim. In independent tests the Philips Saferide 80 lux produced (from memory) about 280 lumens but put nearly all that light where it's needed giving road illumination equivalent to most "1000 lumen" symetrical beams and doing so in a more practical and responsible manner. Beware number based advertising!