Changing Brake Pads On Formula R1

Stu Coops
Stu Coops Posts: 426
edited October 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi Guys I'm getting pretty brave lately doing jobs myself on the bike so is changing the brake pads on my Formula R1 difficult as looking at the caliper it just looks like an alan bolt to take out and some flimsy clip remove old pads and slide new in or am I dilluded and the jobs nowhere near that simple and better off using my LBS
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Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It's that easy
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Dirtydog11
    Dirtydog11 Posts: 1,621
    Stu Coops wrote:
    Hi Guys I'm getting pretty brave lately doing jobs myself on the bike so is changing the brake pads on my Formula R1 difficult as looking at the caliper it just looks like an alan bolt to take out and some flimsy clip remove old pads and slide new in or am I dilluded and the jobs nowhere near that simple and better off using my LBS

    STOP or you'll strip the bolt head

    It's not a alan/hex, it's a small torx and it's very soft.
  • lugsey2k5
    lugsey2k5 Posts: 960
    And before removing the old pads push the pistons back by levering them using a flat screw driver. Other wise when the new pads are in the disk wont fit in.
  • lugsey2k5 wrote:
    And before removing the old pads push the pistons back by levering them using a flat screw driver. Other wise when the new pads are in the disk wont fit in.
    A flat balded screwdriver on the pistons, when then there are no pads in isn't advised as it can damage the pistons. Either push the pistons back with said ^^^ flat baded screwdriver when the pads are in or once the pads have been taken out, use one a plastic tyre lever on the pistons to do it.

    As has been said above, it needs a Torx key, not a hex key and don't go tourquing the bolt up too tight as it's alu. Tighten it up with the end of the torx key where you've got the elast leverage and then use the other side and gently just nip it up.
  • lugsey2k5
    lugsey2k5 Posts: 960
    Might wanna re-read this getonyourbike.
    lugsey2k5 wrote:
    And before removing the old pads push the pistons back by levering them using a flat screw driver. Other wise when the new pads are in the disk wont fit in.
  • lugsey2k5 wrote:
    Might wanna re-read this getonyourbike.
    lugsey2k5 wrote:
    And before removing the old pads push the pistons back by levering them using a flat screw driver. Other wise when the new pads are in the disk wont fit in.
    sorry, dude
  • Stu Coops
    Stu Coops Posts: 426
    Thanks a lot guys as usual excellent feedback
    Zesty 514 Scott Scale 20 GT Expert HalfwayupMTB
  • Stu Coops
    Stu Coops Posts: 426
    Well the pads turned up today from CRC and after some hesitation I took the plunge and replaced pads front and rear, my point is without advice off you guys I wouldn't have attempted it and by the way it took me 10 minutes to complete which for a complete maintenance novice I was impressed.

    So if anyone out there is useless at maintenance like me and want's to change there own pads go for it it's a piece of cake

    Big thanks for all the good advice
    Zesty 514 Scott Scale 20 GT Expert HalfwayupMTB