Grease everything

timmyflash
timmyflash Posts: 526
edited October 2011 in Workshop
Took my casette off for the firsdt time last night to give it a clean. A daunting but rewarding experience. First endevour into the world of mechanic-ing.

So - what bits should i have greased when i put it back together? I assumed none of it and just lube the chain as normal when all back together, but colleagues seem to think differently.
Steel Blue Fixed - Orange Backpack Cover

How do i get a link to a photo in here?!

Fixeh

Comments

  • JohnnyAllez
    JohnnyAllez Posts: 785
    I usually grease the splines on the freehub to stop any corrosion, water can get in there, and also the cassette locking ring to avoid seizing.
    Jens says "Shut up legs !! "

    Specialized S-Works SaxoBank SL4 Tarmac Di2
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    Agree - clean it all up, grease splines with nice clean grease, grease lock ring, torque into 40 Nm. Job jobbed.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    When I stripped mine I put some grease on all the splines and each cog and spacer, not to really 'lubricate', just to prevent any noise (which I had been getting in one particular gear) and to help keep water out. About 1k later and it is as good as new still......

    PP
  • timmyflash
    timmyflash Posts: 526
    Right, so my plan now is to take it apart again and use a cotton bud to grease the splines, then grease the nut thing too.

    Medium coating - and by that i mean i'll make up howmuch to put on, but i guess don't overdo it as will just attract more dirt?

    Also - how tight? I don't have a tool for this, just tightened almost as much as i could.

    Cheers
    Steel Blue Fixed - Orange Backpack Cover

    How do i get a link to a photo in here?!

    Fixeh
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    I only bother with grease on the splines if it's a steel freehub body. It's not desperately important, TBH; whoever heard of a freehub rusting through?

    However, I usually check the DS bearing area while the cassette is off (as it becomes a little easier to get to), and add a bit of grease to help keep the water out of the bearings.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    timmyflash wrote:
    Right, so my plan now is to take it apart again and use a cotton bud to grease the splines, then grease the nut thing too.

    Medium coating - and by that i mean i'll make up howmuch to put on, but i guess don't overdo it as will just attract more dirt?

    Also - how tight? I don't have a tool for this, just tightened almost as much as i could.

    Cheers

    No need for a cotton bud - normal molly or copperslip from a motor factor and use your finger.
    This is more to stop things sticking together through water ingress than to stop rusting.

    Tighten to 40 Nm with a torque wrench.
  • timmyflash
    timmyflash Posts: 526
    Yossie wrote:
    Tighten to 40 Nm with a torque wrench.

    And if i don't have one?
    Steel Blue Fixed - Orange Backpack Cover

    How do i get a link to a photo in here?!

    Fixeh
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    timmyflash wrote:
    Yossie wrote:
    Tighten to 40 Nm with a torque wrench.

    And if i don't have one?

    Do it up tight. I don't have one either, but a cassette is not one of these 'softly-softly' applications on a bicycle.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • Twostage
    Twostage Posts: 987
    timmyflash wrote:
    Yossie wrote:
    Tighten to 40 Nm with a torque wrench.

    And if i don't have one?
    I think 40 nm is equal to a heft. More than a twist but less than a grunt.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    timmyflash wrote:
    Yossie wrote:
    Tighten to 40 Nm with a torque wrench.

    And if i don't have one?

    Borrow/buy one. These are cheap as chips. If you are starting to do mechanicing then buy 2 - 12 Nm and a 12 - 80 Nm wrenches as a part of your tool kit.

    If that fails, nearly FT but not quite. Just make sure that you don't strip the threads or do it so tight so that the free wheel doesn't move.

    Twostage: is that a metric heft or an imperial heft? :D
  • Chris James
    Chris James Posts: 1,040
    I wouldn't bother buying a torque wrench. 40Nm is tight with a big spanner. You are unlikley to overtighten.

    Torque wrenchs are more useful for things like carbon seatposts, stems etc.

    I have never used a torque wrench on any of my bikes and never broken anything in 25 years of 'mechanicing' (albeit my bikes are are mostly metal). You just need a bit of common sense.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=12804674

    Just to prempt all the potential buy/don't buy/buy/don't buy posts.
  • ooermissus
    ooermissus Posts: 811
    Yossie wrote:
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12804674

    Just to prempt all the potential buy/don't buy/buy/don't buy posts.

    Can anyone advise me whether I should wear a helmet when using a torque wrench? :D
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    ooermissus wrote:
    Yossie wrote:
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12804674

    Just to prempt all the potential buy/don't buy/buy/don't buy posts.

    Can anyone advise me whether I should wear a helmet when using a torque wrench? :D

    Of course you do - to do otherwise would be sheer foolhardy madness - I can't believe that you would even contemplate doing something so, so, so, so, well, to be brutally honest, freakin' stupid.

    ARE YOU MAD????? ARE YOU??? ARE YOU ?????? M - A - D? CRAZY???????? RADIO RENTAL? CHICKEN ORIENTAL????????

    I always wear a motorbike helmet, welder's boots, an old NBC suit from an previous times and ensure that the bike is securely clamped onto a workstand in the middle of a large empty field before attempting any torque wrench related work, especially if its on one of those new fangled carbon bikes.

    I'm sorry but I'm still shocked that you would even contemplate doing otherwise, you foolhardy thrill seeker you …...

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