Juicy 7's - Bleeding / Brake Position / Pushing Calipers

baggsy

Hey alll,

I couldn't see a post that answered my question so thought I'd see if anyone else out there has had this issue.

I recently brought the Avid bleed kit, and after an attempt last night to change the oil in both brakes ran into the following problems.

The bike was on a stand with both levers higher than the callipers so air in theory goes to the top. The steps were simple enough (or so I thought) but my main problem in the brake position / engage position.

In all documents it advises to pull the brake leaver after the calliper bleed and then release later. Having done this and removed all air (ie, no more bubbles coming out) I complete the process as described in the manual. There is a good manual on BikeRadar to boot but this doesn't seem to help me either! (Link at the end)


1 - the brake now engages so late the leaver is almost hits my hand. Braking isn't quick and when pulled hard the leaver does hot my hand. I have tried the leaver reach adjuster on the handle bars which doesn't seem to do anything. I've even tried to re-perform the bleed without pulling on the brake and this doesn't do much either.


2 - inserting new pads. When the bleed kit is on I pushed the callipers back as far as I can however I can only move 1 side, the result is I cannot insert new pads. The old ones slip in fine but newer / thicker ones will not budge. Is there a special tactic to push these buggers back in??


Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... kes-21800/

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nicklouse

so before you started the bleed did you reset the pistons and fit the bleed block?

did you claen the pistons before pushing them home?

yes the lever reach adjust does do a lot. sounds like you still have air in the system or have not reset the pistons after removing the bleed spacer.

sticky pistons are normally due to poor (or lack off) cleaning.

baggsy

so before you started the bleed did you reset the pistons and fit the bleed block?
After fitting both syringes I tried to reset the pistons back into the calipar block. This worked for one side and you could see oil moving back into the syringe but the other side I couldn't move. At present I can still use my old pads this this isn't as pressing as the lever engagement.

did you claen the pistons before pushing them home?
Yes, However there wasn't much dirt to remove, just a small amount of brake dust.


yes the lever reach adjust does do a lot. sounds like you still have air in the system or have not reset the pistons after removing the bleed spacer.
I'm not sure I follow you when you satr reset the pistons after removing the bleed spacer?? I inserted the wedgeafter I tried to push the calipers back. How do I reset after removing?

supersonic

Have you seen the Youtube videos by SRAM?

allen.coulson

I know it is a work round but you can grind down new brake pads as a temp measure to give you a bit more volume until the pistons are sorted out.

CharlieH

I found it easier to push the pistons back while the lever syringe is attached and the clamp open. It's also a good idea to coat the stuck piston with a small amount of brake fluid (with the pads out obviously) before pushing back in.

I also had the same lever hitting the bar issue as you and found I had to set the lever to it's furthest outward position before bleeding. I also found the technique on the SRAM site was slightly different to the enclosed instructions and resulted in a better bleed

baggsy

Watched youtube vid last night. Its in a totally different order to the Avid manual. Will give it a try later

Cheers