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Upgrade From FireX to SLX? Worth it?

TrailApeTrailApe Posts: 6
edited August 2011 in MTB buying advice
Hi guys, recently purchased a Boardman Team fs.
Have swapped out some of the standard parts such as wheelset and brakeset, which i felt let the bike down. However, the bike is very much XC orientated and i am gradually customising it to suit my more aggresive riding style. It came stock with a FireX 3.2 crankset but i want to go 2x9 with bash. Wandering if i should just drop the outer ring and get an e13 turbocharger or get the shimano SLX 36/22 and bash. Would i notice a difference in quality between SLX and FireX, thoughts please? :)

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    not much in it.

    if it works use it and fit a bash.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • TrailApeTrailApe Posts: 6
    Always thought that the fireX chainset was a cheap truvativ alternative to their stylo, which was on parr with the SLX, take it this is not the case then?
  • junglist_mattyjunglist_matty Posts: 1,728
    SLX is 899gramms

    FireX is 940gramms

    The only difference you'll notice is the weight, but then if you want to fit a bash ring there's not that much point in spending out on saving weight using the SLX.

    If you are looking at the E-Thirteen supercharger bash ring, they are quite hefty bits of kit... The 36T guard is 210grams; maybe something a bit lighter would suit.

    Also, if you fit a bash guard, don't forget to adjust the front mech's high gear limit so you can't shift up to the third ring (as you'll have removed it); if you don't know how to do this:

    front-derailer.jpg

    "To adjust the high-gear limit, shift the chain into your highest gear, that is, smallest sprocket in the rear, and the largest sprocket in the front. The high-gear limit prevents the chain from shifting past the largest chainwheel and throwing the chain out into your pedals. Ideally you want the cage to stop just after it clears the chain on the large chainring."

    SOURCE: http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/
  • TrailApeTrailApe Posts: 6
    Ok, thanks for the advice, think ill stick with the truvativ set-up then and go with either the e13 or maybe one of the race face lightweight guards. That piece of info about was deraillieur adjustment was handy. Just as an afterthought, parts such as a chain roller aren't a particular necessity if i shorten the chain to suit are they?
  • junglist_mattyjunglist_matty Posts: 1,728
    TrailApe wrote:
    Ok, thanks for the advice, think ill stick with the truvativ set-up then and go with either the e13 or maybe one of the race face lightweight guards. That piece of info about was deraillieur adjustment was handy. Just as an afterthought, parts such as a chain roller aren't a particular necessity if i shorten the chain to suit are they?

    What do you mean by a chain roller?

    Shorten the chain? You shouldn't need to do that if you bought the bike and haven't changed the chain... A short chain is not good if you use gear (big cassette ring) (big drive ring) - which you shouldn't really use anyway
  • TrailApeTrailApe Posts: 6
    Heard that to minimise chain slap its best to remove a few links as the chaIn won't need to be as ling as it will no longer need to wrap around the big ring.

    As for the chain roller I mean as in this ( see the roller on the underside of the crankset:

    http://www.cycleworks.co.uk/wp-content/ ... ch-pro.jpg[/img][/quote]

    Just realised that the type of thing im talking about is the e13 DRS if that helps
  • junglist_mattyjunglist_matty Posts: 1,728
    Does your chain keep coming off? If not, there's no point wasting money on a DRS

    As for chain length, everything you need to know including calculation software is written here:
    http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/b ... hcalc.html
  • bails87bails87 Posts: 12,998
    If you're removing the big ring then yes, you need to shorten the chain, otherwise there'll be a load of excess flapping about.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • junglist_mattyjunglist_matty Posts: 1,728
    bails87 wrote:
    If you're removing the big ring then yes, you need to shorten the chain, otherwise there'll be a load of excess flapping about.

    To some extent I agree, there will be excess chain, but not to the extent it will be flapping about... The chain at its current length has to be suitable for use on both the granny and the middle rings, and therefore still perfectly use-able if removing the outer ring.
    The current dérailleur should have a long cage when running 3 rings up front and Ideally, for running 2 rings up front you'd want a shorter dérailleur cage and a shorter chain, although not essential.
    If shortened too much the chain would be more of a problem than in its current length, and I'd be surprised if it needs to be shorted any more than a few links at the most.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    junglist_matty
    If you are removing the Big ring the chain WILL need to be resized to the new Big and Big combo. Or you just have more chain than you need.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • TrailApeTrailApe Posts: 6
    Ok, thanks for the advice, think i may just go with shortening the chain by a few links for peace of mind and fitting a bash, maybe look at fitting a low roller for more tension if i feel the need after a few outings. Hope i dont regret not going for the SLX ''/ decisions, decisons... Lol
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    TrailApe wrote:
    Ok, thanks for the advice, think i may just go with shortening the chain by a few links for peace of mind and fitting a bash, maybe look at fitting a low roller for more tension if i feel the need after a few outings. Hope i dont regret not going for the SLX ''/ decisions, decisons... Lol

    NO not just by a few links. do it right.

    Go for SLX when the Firex is worn out. there is nothing wrong with it it works fine.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • HandjobDanHandjobDan Posts: 704
    If you're looking for a bash guard anyway if you buy the SLX double and bash, you can use the bash straightaway and then you already has the new crankset and rings for when you need them.

    Only reason I'm suggesting this is that at the moment the double and bash is £89 on CRC and I'm assuming a bash guard is going to cost about £40 or so on it's own. So for double if you can afford it you have a new crankset and BB as spares.

    Chain length should be the same as wrapped around biggest rear cassette cog and front chain ring + 2 links to allow proper tension for reliable shifting.
    Santa Cruz Blur 4X

    Mythic Spitfire Build Thread
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    but as shimano and others do not use the same shoulder diameters I would not bother.

    also when the Firex is done 10spd might be suitable.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • HandjobDanHandjobDan Posts: 704
    Fair point about the shoulders, I didn't think of that.

    Re 10 spd I'm using a 9 speed crankset with 10 speed chain and cassette. No problems here so far.
    Santa Cruz Blur 4X

    Mythic Spitfire Build Thread
  • Steve_b77Steve_b77 Posts: 1,680
    Is it worth asking the question, why did you buy what is essentially a XC FS when as you out it you have a more aggresive riding style :?:

    What may I ask was the problem with the Elixir R's, rotor size?
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