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Name the bits!

drkawaszelongdrkawaszelong Posts: 260
edited July 2011 in Workshop
Hi guys, after spending ages scouring through t'internet, i gave up on trying to find the labels that correspond to this picture...

fixed-bike-exploded.jpg

name the parts fully please? (e.g.threaded Aheadset..or something like that) :)

TIA

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

    might help on most parts.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • thanks, but i've got parts i recognise from the photo, such as 13, 14, 15 and 24.

    maybe this may be better in the "road beginners" section?! :?
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    so what are you asking.

    to type out a list of all the parts on the diagram?

    Or ...............

    what parts do you not know?

    most of the parts in that image will not be found on a modern cycle.

    also have a look at sheldons pages

    Or do some work making an Excel sheet that can be updated for you.

    like what was done here http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... preadsheet
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse wrote:
    most of the parts in that image will not be found on a modern cycle

    THAT! i got hold of an old George Brooks frame (retro project), so that's why this image is suitable. i think.

    need names of
    13-22
    7-8
    19,25-26
    4-6
    29

    grouped them because some look like they could be known as a single part? e.g. a certain headset...
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    12-22 bottom bracket see http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service
    7-8 headset see http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service
    19 crankset (arm for one)
    25-26 toe straps
    4-6 Quill stem (they all come together) see http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_w.html#wedgebolt

    29 seat post clamp.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • k-dogk-dog Posts: 1,652
    13-22 are all part of the bottom bracket - do you need the individual part names?

    7 is the lower headset race
    8 are the lower headset bearings

    19 is the non-driveside crank
    25 is a toeclip
    26 is a pedal (seriously?)

    4 is a quill stem
    5 is the stem expander bolt - the one in the picture is cone-shaped rather than the more common wedge shaped
    6 is the stem bolt

    29 is the seat clamp bolt
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • mz__jomz__jo Posts: 398
    The Bottom Bracket presents one or two particularities if you don't know old-fashioned kit.

    24 is the right- hand or fixed cup. This will have a left-hand thread (I am assuming that this is a british frame). It could be very difficult to remove, requiring penetrating oil, special spanner or heat (or all three). It could just as easily have a frame thread that is completely stripped in which case it will fall out but you could have problems replacing it correctly.

    18 is the locking ring for the left-hand or adjustable cup. There will be a C spanner that is correct but you can usually improvise. Normal right-hand thread.

    17 is the left-hand or adjustable cup. Again right-hand thread. Could have little holes for a peg spanner or flats. If you don't have the right tool you can usually improvise.

    15 is the bottom bracket axle (I also call it a spindle but I am sure that the correct term is axle).

    14 is a bearing (one on each side of the axle locating in the cups). The bearings on your diagram are balls fitted into retainers. In this case there will normally be 9 balls to each bearing and you have to take care to fit the bearing the right way round with the ring part towards the axle bearing surface. You could equally find loose balls in the bearing in which case you should have 11 to each side. Generally loose balls are better for normal road use because the loads are spread over a greater surface. A track bike might have clips fitted with an idea that less balls makes less rolling friction. I can't comment on that.

    13 would appear to be a sealing sleeve fitted into the bottom bracket to prevent the entry of dirt and water. Normal on a touring machine, particularly an older one with a steel seat pillar. I don't see any useful purpose for this part on a track bike with an alloy seat pillar that effectively seals the seat tube.

    16 confuses me. It could be that the left-hand cup is in two parts on this version although I have no experience of a cup like that on a bicycle; they exist in industry. It could equally be a seal that locates with part 13. Again I have never come across something like that. Since the first step in stripping is to take out the left-hand cup and the part 16 is almost certainly not threaded dismantling will show its real purpose.

    20,21 and 22 are the bolt, washer and dust cap for the crank. The same items are found on the right-hand crank. They are not part of the bottom bracket.

    Adjusting and dismantling as in the Park Tools link already given.
    Hope that helps.
  • mz__jomz__jo Posts: 398
    I forgot to add that the chain will probably be 1/2"x1/8" with sprocket and chainring to match, not 1/2"x3/32" as on a bike with a derailleur. Tnat you might know already.
  • mz__jomz__jo Posts: 398
    Little mistake. The crank retaining bolts and washers might be included with the axle or sold separately. The dustcaps come with the cranks.
  • mz__jomz__jo Posts: 398
    You will note that all the elements of the headset have been included under the reference 7 except the two sets of balls ref. 8. This headset appears to have loose balls but you could find balls in retaining clips like in the bottom bracket.

    Ref.7 from the top you have a locknut, lock washer, upper fork race, upper frame race, lower frame race and fork crown race. The upper fork race and lower frame race could be called cups as well. You don't really need all that as you will probably wanr a complete headsetn not bits.
  • thanks all! :) must've taken a fair bit of time to write it all out :?

    i'm completely new to this vintage/retro/older bikes stuff.

    so, i know that i'll need a 1" steerer fork, am i right in thinking that a 27" length fork will work with 700c wheel with long drop brakes?

    and therefore headset wise, will then need a 1" threaded headset? (like one in image)?
  • mz__jomz__jo Posts: 398
    What is on your diagram is a track bike, presumably with a fork for sprint wheels with tubular tyres. These are the same diameter (within 1-2mm) as a 700c wheel with a 23 tyre. If the fork is already drilled for a brake you do not need to change anything to run a road tyre and the brake drop will probably be quite short but that you will need to look at and measure (which can be quite tricky).
    If your fork is for 27" wheels you can usually fit 700c wheels with tyres up to 32mm without any problem but you will need brakes that are correspondingly long. If you have brakes that came with the bike they may be long enough. Alternatively you could find rims and tyres to stay with 27"x 11/4", which if the frame was made for the road would be more in keeping.

    In all cases you will need a 1" threaded headset unless the fork happens to have a Raleigh thread (most unlikely for a non Raleigh product, but with the time that has passed anything is possible) in which case it will be easier to find a BSC threaded fork than a Raleigh threaded headset. They are both 1". Check on Sheldon Brown's site for the differences in thread standards to understand the difference. In case of a Raleigh thread the easiest ting is just to clean up the headset and replace the balls.
  • it's a 60s frame, so i guess it would've been designed for 27". i want to go 700c because of the fact that there will be a greater selection of modern components :)

    i'll be getting a non Raleigh fork,

    thanks for the help!
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