Removable link chains

iamisotope

Are these any good?

It has probably already been done to death on the forum.

Are removable chain links reliable?

The last thing I want is a chain snapping on my when I am maxing it downhill.

Are there any systems that work well with Shimano cassette / chainrings / deraillures?

I am looking for a satisfactory way to clean the chain (already have Park chain cleaning device).

anto164

Yes they are reliable.

Sram chains and KMC chains use removable links which don't need a chain tool. I'd personally get a SRAM chain and use that. Chains are all compatable with different manufacturers.

As for cleaning the chain, i'd just degrease fully, and then use a decent quality dry lube that has a very high wax content. You will never need to clean the chain again.

alfablue

Note that the 10 speed SRAM chain uses a "Powerlock" (as opposed to the re-usable "Powerlink" on their other chains). This is a single use link so you can't (or aren't supposed to) re-open it.

All KMC "missing links" are reusable on all chain sizes.

SRAM and KMC are both fine and most people would rate them better than Shimano.

You can buy the KMC links separately (about £2) and you can use them on your existing chain, as far as I know they will fit all Shimano compatible brands.

I use KMC chains and links on all my bikes, that includes road, hybrid, tourer and mtb, and 8,9 and 10 speed systems. Never had a failure. Merlin Cycles usually have good prices on KMC.

balthazar

Re-usable links are totally reliable. I haven't used a chain which joins traditionally for about 15 years, and I've never encountered a link failure. I generally use KMC links.

Chains fail when they're highly loaded, which is usually when riding up steep grades – not when"maxing it downhill"..!

The cleaning devices are fine, though I prefer periodically to slip the chain off and shake it in jars of solvent, (it's no great effort because it doesn't need doing often). The solvent can be left to settle out and re-used (I use ancient white spirit). Either way, make sure the chain is dry before re-oiling, because any remaining solvent will dilute the oil. Off the bike, they're easy to dry by "flinging" them outside, or leaving in the sun or an airing cupboard.

For lubrication, use lubricating oil. Foaming chainsaw oil is probably best. I use motor oil because I have plenty already, and it's fine of course. Otherwise, the pricey little bottles from the bike shop may appeal to you.

iamisotope

Is it the case that you should replace the cassette and chainrings at the same time as the chain?

ugo.santalucia

iamisotope wrote:

Is it the case that you should replace the cassette and chainrings at the same time as the chain?

Those selling parts wants you to believe that you need to change the cassette every thousand miles or even more often. In my experience, which is about 100,000 miles long, give or take, had I changed a cassette every thousand miles, I would have gone through 100 cassettes and chains. Truth is I have probably used less than 20 and I only recall one chain failure, on a fairly new chain.
I would be sensible and only change the chain when you see a bit of light between chainring and chain at the bottom of the big chainring. As for the cassette, change it when the sprocket you use the most is seriously worn.

As for chainrings, they are alloy, hence softer than the chain, therefore even when they are seriously worn they won't wear out your chain. Change them when they can't hold the chain any longer... typically after 10K miles if you ride wet and dry.. if you only ride dry they'll probably outlive the bike.

Ultimately, all of the above is only valid if you keep up the maintenance, hence wipe the chain and keep the all drivetrain clean and lubricated. Any oil will do, I use 3 in 1... some even use expensive "green oil" which is a mixture of rapeseed and olive oil. :roll:

cycologist

alfablue wrote:

Note that the 10 speed SRAM chain uses a "Powerlock" (as opposed to the re-usable "Powerlink" on their other chains). This is a single use link so you can't (or aren't supposed to) re-open it.

That might explain why I had such difficulty in tring to open the link on my 10 speed Sram chain. I gave up after a while - just as well by the sounds of it. Thanks for this info.

nferrar

Is anyone else using a 10sp KMC missing link on a dura-ace chain? Being using powerlinks and missing links for years (road and MTB) but first time I've tried one on a dura-ace chain (the new type directional one) and it was a real pig to get in place.

cycologist

Would a KMC or other make of removable link work with a Sram 10 speed chain as i like to remove chain for cleaning and when transporting the bike but do not want the faff or cost of replacing the link every time if there is a reusable alternative.

nferrar

Yeah they work fine with SRAM chains

e999sam

nferrar wrote:

Is anyone else using a 10sp KMC missing link on a dura-ace chain? Being using powerlinks and missing links for years (road and MTB) but first time I've tried one on a dura-ace chain (the new type directional one) and it was a real pig to get in place.

The new Dura Ace change comes with it's own missing link.
I've recently put a KMC missing ling on a Ultegra (directional ) chain and it was a much tighter fit than usual. I've had to use a tool to remove it.

nferrar

Odd, bought a DA one from CRC and it just came with the usual Shimano pins (was def a directional one though as mentioned in the instructions and those just had pins in the joining diagram).

e999sam

I got my DA chain from J E James over a year ago. Maybe they have stopped supplying them.