What size key for attaching Ultrashift levers?

satanas
satanas Posts: 1,303
edited July 2011 in Workshop
I've got some Campag Ultrashift levers and cannot tell what sort of key is needed to attach the wretched things. The attachment bolts are tight out of the box, and I cannot get the hoods up far enough to get anything in to see if it fits; I don't have any appropriately sized ball-ended Allen keys to test with. I'd remove the hoods but am not convinced this is possible without destroying them.

So, I expect I will need to cut down a key to get it to fit in there but would prefer not to destroy any more than I have to. My guess is that it might be a 3mm Allen key, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was 3.5mm, or Torx... The socket is very shallow and my eyesight isn't good enough to tell based on what little I can see. Campag helpfully fail to mention what size it is in any of the documentation... :evil:

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • markos1963
    markos1963 Posts: 3,724
    You should be able to get the hoods up enough, they are difficult but persevere. I got a set of Veloce ones with a TT bike I bought and had the same problem. One side was a 3mm hex and the other needed a Torx!! I suspect the original owner had been a bit ham fisted judging by the rest of the bike.
  • satanas
    satanas Posts: 1,303
    Looks like it's T25 but my bits are too long to get in there without removing the hoods entirely (not going to happen!) or grinding down a bit so it's short enough to go in without hitting the lever body. I will try the latter tomorrow when there's daylight. I'd replace the "bolt" with an Allen key one except it's really a nut. [sigh] Bl00dy Campag! :roll:
  • cq20
    cq20 Posts: 207
    On my Ultrashifts, it is a T25 and it slides in between the shifter body and the hood. One advantage of Torx is that it is less susceptible to rounding than hex. I much prefer the Ultrashift fitting to the old Ergo setup.
  • satanas
    satanas Posts: 1,303
    ^ Thanks! Success - of sorts. After reading your post I tried folding the hood back from the top instead of the bottom and managed to get the bit to engage and undid the &^$%^! nut.

    I'm not convinced that Torx is actually better in bike sizes as IME the driver bits tend to twist or snap, and the bolt heads round out pretty easily on things like rotor bolts. Maybe if I can buy a T25 key with an Allen key-like form factor I might end up happier about the whole thing but at present I have to use a bit plus an extension bar then a spanner or key of some sort to turn the other pieces. IMO Torx and Posidriv are solutions for problems better solved by using good quality tools and sensible diameter and depth recesses on the fastener heads.

    The reason I got the US levers was that I found the shape more comfortable than the current Shimano levers or the older Ergo levers. They will be used with SRAM rear derailleurs and Shimano cassettes and wheels, sacrilege I know...
  • ajb72
    ajb72 Posts: 1,178
    I used to struggle with accessing this bolt, so bought a T-Bar, extended torx key, a bit like this one; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CYCLEPRO-T-BAR-T2 ... 588d994f37

    Makes a fiddly job an absolute doddle - fitted new Record levers in a couple of minutes yesterday.
  • stokey1964
    stokey1964 Posts: 454
    You can buy a set Of Torx keys in the same format you would Allen keys


    Simon
  • satanas
    satanas Posts: 1,303
    ^ I have Torx bits, but will try and hunt down a nice long T-handled T25 key next time I'm near an engineering supplier...