105 front change
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plowmar
Posts: 1,032
I'm posting on this Forum as I know that's what you all will call me. :oops:
I keep having problems changing to the bigger ring after taking hills with the small ring. In fact I have to get off and manually change the front ring.
From what I've just said you will gather that I am on the small ring and large cassette. As I cannot - or it won't let me - immediately change to the large ring on the down hill should I do a few change ups on the cassette before changing the front ring?
P S the change is fine - large front/ large rear - when on the bench without any stress on it.
(Sits back and waits for sarcasm, wit, disdain and hopefully some advice. ( to say what a plonker I am))
I keep having problems changing to the bigger ring after taking hills with the small ring. In fact I have to get off and manually change the front ring.
From what I've just said you will gather that I am on the small ring and large cassette. As I cannot - or it won't let me - immediately change to the large ring on the down hill should I do a few change ups on the cassette before changing the front ring?
P S the change is fine - large front/ large rear - when on the bench without any stress on it.
(Sits back and waits for sarcasm, wit, disdain and hopefully some advice. ( to say what a plonker I am))
0
Comments
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Yep, you've already hit the answer: simply shift on the cassette from the largest cog to near the middle, then shift front ring from small to large. You're asking the chain to do a huge amount of bending when in the large/large config, plus your rear derailleur might well be on the absolute limit of what it can provide in terms of length...
Don't expect abuse in answers: it's a sensible question. There was a recent 'can someone explain gears' thread that's worth reading, too.
I'm impressed you've managed 1800-odd miles and are having to get off to change: that would truly have done my nut in!Synapse Alloy 105 / Rock Lobster Tig Team Sl0 -
Thanks Chiak.
Have two bikes but usually only use the 50 large for the hilly rides and the 53/39 for flatter ones, its just it was doing my head in. But the hills are coming easier.
re 'abuse' I just thought it was a stupid question by a silly contributor, so expected the worst.
I'll try your idea and see what happens.0 -
It could well be the same that happens to me. I have a compact 105 set, and when i go from 34 tooth to 50 tooth with the main brake level, i have to half click the paddle behind to bring thr front mech back a few mm. This stops chain rub in the 2 larger gears on the cassette....
Thought about getting it looked at, but honestly it doesn't bother me that much0 -
Olly; that's the trim function. It's meant to work like that.
Have a read of the instructions on Shimano Tech Docs0 -
keef66 wrote:Olly; that's the trim function. It's meant to work like that.
Have a read of the instructions on Shimano Tech Docs
aaaaahhhhhhhh.....that does make a bit of sense i suppose :oops:
nice one0 -
No need for the :oops:
I'm guessing like me and 95% of new bike owners you didn't get any detailed instructions with the bike. I've downloaded lots of useful stuff from the Shimano site; setting up and using gears, exploded diagrams of front and rear hubs, installation instructions / parts diagrams for HT2 crankset / BB etc0 -
I've got all the original boxes and instructions as i was properly fitted and went through every component with the bike shop that i bought my steed from, but as usual they just got thrown in a drawer in the garage!0