3T Dorico Team seatpost - it's grip-ularly lacking

lenclume

Does anyone else have problems with this expletiveing seat-post working loose during a ride?

Okay, I'm no lightweight climber type - 1m 87, and around 87 kgs (or six-two, 190-ish lbs if you're Imperially inclined). But I'm sure there are people out there who are bigger and heavier. And the roads I ride are mostly in a terrible, bumpy condition, but it's not exactly pavé.

I tighten the bolts properly*, to the correct maximum torque (8 Nm, according to 3T's technical documentation). And this is FOUR times now that my saddle has worked loose on a ride, with two different saddles.

Any ideas? (Yeah, I know - lose weight. But I can't find any indication online that there might be a maximum rider weight.)


* Don't get me started on what is a nightmare this is in the first place. Fiddly isn't the word.

Wooliferkins

Carbon jointing compound? My first carbon seatpost used to retract until I applied some.

lenclume

That looks interesting. Thanks.

(This isn't the post sliding into the frame, by the way, this is the bolts loosening on the saddle rails, but I see it can be used on the bolts, as well).

My only concern would be the 3-5 minutes it takes to set. Given how long it takes me to get my saddle fitted properly flat with this swine of an arrangement, I'm not sure I'd manage in time.

Berk Bonebonce

lenclume wrote:

This isn't the post sliding into the frame, by the way, this is the bolts loosening on the saddle rails, but I see it can be used on the bolts, as well.

Now you say.

Some saddle rails are not that suited to being clamped and require higher torque. For example, a saddle clamp is going to clamp a carbon saddle rail better than it will a titanium one. Try higher torque in the first instance. A different saddle with rails of a different material if the problem persists.

sungod

i don't have the same seatpost, but i've got one with a similar style clamp, certainly fiddly to set up!

tbh i'd think 8nM is the maximum torque, rather than the necessary torque, mine clamps fine at 3nM

things to try/check...

make sure that bolts are at 90 degrees to the saddle rails

make sure that the top clamp bars are at 90 degrees to the rails

the thread of the rear bolt should not touch the top of the post

the head of the front bolt should not touch the post

put a mark on the bolt heads so that you can check to see if they are rotating, if they are, then put a dab of loctite 242 on the threads, this should hold them but still allow removal without problems

Berk Bonebonce

And is the saddle level and not at some ridiculous angle?

lenclume

Now you say.

Yes, re-reading my opening post I realise it was misleading. I'd edit it, but then people's replies would look odd. So I'll leave it and look stupid. (What can I say: it's a gift.)

Bolts, clamps, everything's at 90 degrees. And yep, the saddle's completely level.

However, both saddles that slipped are Selle Italia - a Flite and a Prolink - and both have vanox rails, so maybe the rails and the clamps just don't get on.

Thanks for the replies, chaps.

McBoom

My uncle has the Doric Ltd seatpost. I used his bike for a 100km sportive...

60km in, the saddle came loose so I had to stop and re-tighten.

98km in, whilst doing 60+kph down a hill, the saddle came loose again, but this time it came off completely. It kind of hooked onto the seapost so didn't fall onto the road, but I did loose the curved piece of carbon that sits on top of the seatpost. I had to do the last 2km with the saddle in my jersey pocket.

In conculsion - seems like a flimsy design and I share your frustration with it

keef66

Bloody hell! you're lucky you didn't do the last 2 km by air ambulance.

The term 'not fit for purpose' springs to mind. I think if it were mine it would be going back for a refund.

LangerDan

Is this you or another unhappy 3T camper?

ajb72

I had this seatpost on my Cervelo RS - never had a glitch although I admit it was absolutely horrible to set up.

I would also try loctite before you abandon the post - it has sorted problems I've had with mtb bars working loose/

lenclume

Mine's on an RS, as well.

I see on that other thread (LangerDan's link) that someone recommends putting weight on the back of the saddle before tightening the rear bolt, then doing the front one.

The seatpost flexes noticeably when you lean on the back of the saddle, though - so it's a bit of a mare all round. But I'll give that a go.

Incidentally, [off topic] how does your CX-1 ride in comparison to the RS, ajb72?

ajb72

lenclume wrote:

Mine's on an RS, as well.

I see on that other thread (LangerDan's link) that someone recommends putting weight on the back of the saddle before tightening the rear bolt, then doing the front one.

The seatpost flexes noticeably when you lean on the back of the saddle, though - so it's a bit of a mare all round. But I'll give that a go.

Incidentally, [off topic] how does your CX-1 ride in comparison to the RS, ajb72?

The CX-1 has near identical geometry to the RS, but I have to admit I was worried about it being too stiff for long ride comfort, especially at the rear triangle where it is noticeably beefed up compared to the RS.

My fears were groundless though. The CX-1 is definitely stiffer, especially at the front end of the bike where steering is a little sharper. It corners better than the RS I reckon, although I never had any real complaints about the RS and although heavier, I prefer the CX-1 for climbing too, as the rear stays and bb feel as though they are mega stiff. The ride comfort is barely any different though. The RS is definitely better at the really bad road surfaces (I really missed it riding in Norfolk a few weeks ago, terrible roads!) but on the whole the difference is less than I expected.

Ideally I'd have liked to keep the RS as well, but finances couldn't stretch to both, sadly.

lenclume

Interesting, thanks.

The geometry aspect is surprising - I'd have assumed without checking that the RS had a more sloping top tube. But now you've said that I've looked up the geometry and, as you say, they look almost identical. Must be the combination of the paintwork and the beefier stays on the Colnago deceiving the eye - now that I've opened some photos side by side, they look a lot more similar than I'd thought, too.

I don't think personally I'll be moving onto anything stiffer, though. On the roads around here I'd be getting my fillings replaced on a weekly basis.

ajb72

Indeed! I should add though that I run HED Ardennes wheels and I think that makes a huge difference to the feel of the bike, compared to say my previous Mavic ES wheels. The combination of wider rims and lower psi has improved comfort no end.