Endura Flyte Jacket Ironing

Mojo_666
Mojo_666 Posts: 860
edited June 2011 in MTB general
Has anyone here ironed thier Endura Flyte Jacket?

If so did you do this after each wash, or every few? & how low a temperature is low exactly?...the lowest so it is just warm or?
My 1 and only Bike

Comments

  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Why would you iron it?

    If it's any kind of technical fabric I just wouldn't, it'll melt or you'll break it!

    What do the instructions say?
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    bails87 wrote:
    Why would you iron it?

    If it's any kind of technical fabric I just wouldn't, it'll melt or you'll break it!

    What do the instructions say?

    They suprised me a little tbh but they Say to....

    Wash it on low as this clears the sweat/crud and allows it to "breath" again. Which makes sense.

    It then says to iron it on low (which apparently rejuvenates the waterproofing ptfe fabric)
    This suprised me tbh but who am I to argue? but it doesn't say how low or how often. Now I am assuming this is going to be dead low just to get the fibres upstanding again or something? in which case might not be required after every wash? but if it is on super low might you just not hang it in a really hot airing cupboard?

    But it really isn't clear so for the sake of asking I thought I would...because as you say I don't want to break it, but I do want it to function as per the design.
    My 1 and only Bike
  • Thewaylander
    Thewaylander Posts: 8,594
    i know alot of water proof gear likes to be tummble dried on low to refresh the fabrics too, but as far as i know these things are done on the lowest possible setting. :)
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Hmm, I hadn't realised that, I thought it was just you wanting to look smart on your bike :lol:

    I'd err on the side of caution tbh, keep it cool.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    Thewaylander wrote:
    i know alot of water proof gear likes to be tummble dried on low to refresh the fabrics too, but as far as i know these things are done on the lowest possible setting. :)

    This one said specifically not to tumble dry....not that I own one anyway. Glad to see this
    isn't the only jacket that needs some sort of kick start though.
    My 1 and only Bike
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    bails87 wrote:
    Hmm, I hadn't realised that, I thought it was just you wanting to look smart on your bike :lol:

    I'd err on the side of caution tbh, keep it cool.

    I would much rather go out un creased if I am honest, I did feel rather cool by my spanky new "un creased" jacket. ;)

    Unless someone comes back with a definitive answer I will just go low and check that the water beads on it and maybe wind it up if it doesn't? Unless someone knows of a reason why not to?
    My 1 and only Bike
  • anjs
    anjs Posts: 486
    The other thing to check is what was in washed in. A lot of fabrics (goretex, event etc) have the waterproof coat that causes water to bead. If you wash the jacket in either normal detergent or fabric softener you run the risk of stripping the coating completely. I would use either pure saop flakes or one of the specilist cleaners like Nikwax tech wash followed by a very low iron. If this does not restore the beading then look at reproofing using TX or similar.
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    anjs wrote:
    The other thing to check is what was in washed in. A lot of fabrics (goretex, event etc) have the waterproof coat that causes water to bead. If you wash the jacket in either normal detergent or fabric softener you run the risk of stripping the coating completely. I would use either pure saop flakes or one of the specilist cleaners like Nikwax tech wash followed by a very low iron. If this does not restore the beading then look at reproofing using TX or similar.
    The washing instructions specified only (aside from the temp) that you should use no conditioner as it messes with the fabric, my understanding is that this jacket is fabric based (PTFE) proofed I could find no mention of any coating anywhere, nothing on the instructions or the tech spec cards that come attached to the label. Just references to cleaning out the fabric (washing) not clogging the fabric (no conditioner) and rejuvenating the fabric (ironing) I could not find any reference to it being coated or treated anywhere Anjs.
    My 1 and only Bike
  • anjs
    anjs Posts: 486
    Well polytetraflouroethylene (PTFE) is normally used to create the breathable membrane in the jacket material. The idea being it forms small pores that water vapour can pass through but water droplets can't. This process fails if the outer surface of the jacket wets out and becomes saturated. This is why normally there is durable water repellent coating (DWR) applied to the outside.
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    anjs wrote:
    Well polytetraflouroethylene (PTFE) is normally used to create the breathable membrane in the jacket material. The idea being it forms small pores that water vapour can pass through but water droplets can't. This process fails if the outer surface of the jacket wets out and becomes saturated. This is why normally there is durable water repellent coating (DWR) applied to the outside.


    I see, that kinda makes sense, what is with the ironing malarky then?
    My 1 and only Bike
  • timpop
    timpop Posts: 394
    The heat/warmth causes a chemical reaction with the DWR to rejuvinate its qualities. Just be careful with the iron. The DWR is vital to the performance of the membrane as is cleanliness.
    Many happy trails!
  • anjs
    anjs Posts: 486
    Best way to test the DWR is to put the dry coat under the tap. Water should just form beads and roll off if the DWR is working. Any signs of it soakling into the jacket then try ironinig and if that fails to re activate then apply a new coat.
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    OK Chaps this is making more sense to me now, I will give that a go tonight.

    Cheers
    My 1 and only Bike
  • sniper68
    sniper68 Posts: 2,910
    I iron my Berghaus Denizen after every wash/reproof,just do it on a low setting.As said heat re-activates the DWR,some manufacturers recommend ironing some tumble-drying 8)
    Lynskey R480

  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    Well the DWR appears fine without the ironing so no rush on that one. I am a lot clearer on it now so thanks all, also regular liquid appears not to have been an issue but have read more info which supports the comments made here about not using it. I have emailed Endura for clarification as having checked again on the tag they make no reference to it, but I will abstain from using powder/liquid until I get a reply or more info.

    Cheers
    My 1 and only Bike
  • Mojo_666
    Mojo_666 Posts: 860
    I just got a reply from Endura, thought I would share it.

    Below are care instructions for Flyte jacket


    Care instructions for PTFE:
    We recommend that good results will be achieved with an environmentally friendly 30 degree wash using non-biological washing powder.
    Using a lower temperature will reduce your energy consumption by up to 40 %. However, the fabric has been developed to withstand a maximum temperature of 40 degrees.



    Garment care:
    This garment’s outer fabric layer has been treated with a durable water repellant (DWR) finish which causes water to bead up on the surface instead of being absorbed into the fabric. To keep it functioning at optimum performance it must be kept clean to remove sweat, dirt, grease and other impurities following the care instructions. The application of heat via a cool iron will rejuvenate the DWR to maximize the repellency. Avoid using fabric conditioner which may hinder breathability. And DO NOT tumble dry.

    Regards

    Endura
    My 1 and only Bike

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