Disc brake upgrade

father_jack
father_jack Posts: 3,509
edited May 2011 in Workshop
Just interested, what replacement disc brake can I use for my Carrera Gryphon disc?

Since front brake is the most important one, may just replace the front one upgrading to hydaulic. Can I use the existing 160mm rotor, or would a new set include another one? Or could I replace it when the one I have is worn out?

Don't mind buying this if I don't get one with mechanical disc brakes.

Avid Juicy 3 Disc Brakes with 160mm Rotor and Hose
Say... That's a nice bike..
Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    any. as the shifters and brake levers are separate.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    shifers? :? do I have to worry about fixing size on fork/frame? Heard two sizes? can find out the dimensions from each frame hole to the other.
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    all covered in the MTB FAQs.

    yes any. unless buying used where you may have some issues where you may need a bigger front disc.

    Most current brakes fit both.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    Holes are 52mm apart. The caliper is on some kind of adaptor, rather than bolted directly onto the frame.
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    This one would do? Don't mind spending £55

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=40207

    although bleeding and all that seems a chore so I stay with mechanical?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=31347

    What I don't like is adjusting the barrel adjuster pulls the swing arm so it limits the amount of movement, and therefore maximum stopping power. Are all mechanical disc brakes like that?
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    have you looked in the MTB FAQs? all the fittings are covered there.

    TBH I would sort your current ones. the BB7 are the best mech disc brakes available but have more adjustments than your current ones and you say you cant get them right.

    you dont need to adjust the barrel adjuster as that is just to take tension up in the cable.

    set the caliper with the wire disconnected and then attach the wire if you are having problems.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    Done that

    1 ) Loosent inner cable from caliper
    2) Adjust wheel sided bolt to move pad as close as possible to rotor
    3) Pull cable tight, clamp down

    It's better than it was before, but my old v brakes had more power and better feeling what's going on.
    you dont need to adjust the barrel adjuster as that is just to take tension up in the cable

    How do you move the left hand side pad without pulling the arM?
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,872
    Done that

    1 ) Loosent inner cable from caliper
    2) Adjust wheel sided bolt to move pad as close as possible to rotor
    3) Pull cable tight, clamp down

    It's better than it was before, but my old v brakes had more power and better feeling what's going on.
    you dont need to adjust the barrel adjuster as that is just to take tension up in the cable

    How do you move the left hand side pad without pulling the arM?

    as i said in your other post, you move the left pad by using the cable adjuster, if you download the tektro instructions from their website it tells you this

    if you are getting poor braking, check that you haven't contaminated the pads/disc with oil/grease, if you glaze the pads take them out and use some 1500 grit paper to clean the surface

    new cables will bed-in/stretch a bit, this is more noticable with disc brakes, so be prepared to tweak adjustment more often in the first few weeks
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    you move the left pad by using the cable adjuster,

    If you mean the barrel adjuster (number 2) that pulls the cable so reduces the maximum amount of pad movement. You're making the pad move by using the natural range of motion by the mech.

    Rather than having the swing arm at minimum, but pads very very close to it.

    Would be better if you move the pad like you can do with the stationary side, so you can set up the pads before you fit the cable.

    One way I can think of a solution, move the whole caliper as much as possible to the left, use a card between the left pad and shim and push it close, tighten up caliper remove card. Then adjust stationary pad closing the gap.
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    Going to hit the buy it now button :o)

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AVID-Kit-BB7-Fron ... 1c158391cb

    May get replacement cable set as messing around with the IO brakes have mashed up the inner, may have a problem threading it. Only £8 a set for jagwire set.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Jagwire-Cable-Hos ... 19bcfc792a
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,872
    bb7 are good, bb5 are too albeit a bit fiddlier

    there are umpteen washers involved that allow you to get them aligned just right, the instructions explain it, you may need to go through a couple of iterations

    make 100% sure the wheels are well seated in the drops, otherwise you'll be adjusting the calipers for a slightly offline disk, then next time you remove/replace a wheel the alignment will be off, which will be annoying
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    If I wanted hydro this model, it comes ready bled and filled with fluid? That seems good then

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Avid-Elixir-3-Fro ... 2c5bcfd56c

    Do prefer the feel of hydro levers seem to have more feedback.

    £100 for a set, which is ok

    BB7 or Elixer 3? hmmm

    seen a Avid Elixir R too

    hmmm elixer's don't have pad adjustment :cry:
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • father_jack
    father_jack Posts: 3,509
    Went for the BB7's, would need to get CR to get pad adjustment, roughly £115 each

    £65 for front and back calipers, 160mm disc rotors, Avid FR7 levers.
    £8 for Brake Hose: 2.5m, Shifter Hose: 2m, Front Brake Inner Cable: 1.1m, Rear Brake Inner Cable: 1.7m , End cap for cables and hose. Leave as spare or I have problems using my existing ones.
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)