Installing a new fork

bendertherobot
bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
edited April 2011 in Road buying advice
Headset is fine. Existing fork is just a bit heavy.

So, I have, as far as I can see, a 45mm rake 1 1/8 steerer.

Am thinking of a 3T Funda Team, 43mm rake I think.

So:

1. How easy, I was thinking of getting a shop to install/cut it.

2. Rake, 43mm, is that more or less twitchy (or just won't notice).
My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.

Comments

  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Headset is fine. Existing fork is just a bit heavy.

    So, I have, as far as I can see, a 45mm rake 1 1/8 steerer.

    Am thinking of a 3T Funda Team, 43mm rake I think.

    So:

    1. How easy, I was thinking of getting a shop to install/cut it.

    2. Rake, 43mm, is that more or less twitchy (or just won't notice).

    Cutting it is easy, just use a hacksaw, it doesnt need to be perfect as long as the cut is below the top of the headset once assembled. Cut the fork to the same length as the old one from the bearing race surface to the cut.

    The hard bit will be getting the bottom bearing race off the old fork and pressing it on the new fork. This is where hammer and punch/screwdriver/chisel are useful :)

    Cant image you will notice much difference with a 2mm change in rake. Will be more twitchy if anything. Whats the existing fork, ally or steel?
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    A slight reduction in fork offset will probably not make a huge difference to handling - you're actually increasing trail which actually slows down the handling response:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_an ... e_geometry

    In terms of fitting it's quite straight-forward, but given the risk of wrecking a fork, for the sake of £20 it might be best to get your LBS to fit it - I've frequently seen people cut the steerer too short to render an expensive fork useless. I've cut many a fork steerer, but each time I make the first saw cut I still get a nervous feeling! If you do DIY, fit and measure it at least 2 times before you make the first cut - there's no going back with carbon forks. The underside of an old ahead stem makes a good cutting guide.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    Ta guys, yes, potentially going from a 575g carbon/alloy steerer fork to a 350g (or so) 3T one.

    That said, I might just change my handlebars from alloy to carbon (3T Ergonova to carbon version). Similar weight saving, much less difficult, probably more comfy.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Ta guys, yes, potentially going from a 575g carbon/alloy steerer fork to a 350g (or so) 3T one.

    That said, I might just change my handlebars from alloy to carbon (3T Ergonova to carbon version). Similar weight saving, much less difficult, probably more comfy.

    Seems an awful lot of effort for 225g weight saving, especially since you already have a carbon bladed fork. Less then half-filled water bottle.

    As for being easier to change the bars, I reckon I could change the forks quicker.

    Anyway, up to you :)
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    I always find the water bottle thing weird. I go out with a full one. Therefore any weight saving is always present ;)

    Anyway, it's more about "finishing the bike off," it's about 7kg now. This will make it UCI illegal ;)
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.