Installing a new fork

bendertherobot
Posts: 11,684
Headset is fine. Existing fork is just a bit heavy.
So, I have, as far as I can see, a 45mm rake 1 1/8 steerer.
Am thinking of a 3T Funda Team, 43mm rake I think.
So:
1. How easy, I was thinking of getting a shop to install/cut it.
2. Rake, 43mm, is that more or less twitchy (or just won't notice).
So, I have, as far as I can see, a 45mm rake 1 1/8 steerer.
Am thinking of a 3T Funda Team, 43mm rake I think.
So:
1. How easy, I was thinking of getting a shop to install/cut it.
2. Rake, 43mm, is that more or less twitchy (or just won't notice).
My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.
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Comments
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bendertherobot wrote:Headset is fine. Existing fork is just a bit heavy.
So, I have, as far as I can see, a 45mm rake 1 1/8 steerer.
Am thinking of a 3T Funda Team, 43mm rake I think.
So:
1. How easy, I was thinking of getting a shop to install/cut it.
2. Rake, 43mm, is that more or less twitchy (or just won't notice).
Cutting it is easy, just use a hacksaw, it doesnt need to be perfect as long as the cut is below the top of the headset once assembled. Cut the fork to the same length as the old one from the bearing race surface to the cut.
The hard bit will be getting the bottom bearing race off the old fork and pressing it on the new fork. This is where hammer and punch/screwdriver/chisel are useful
Cant image you will notice much difference with a 2mm change in rake. Will be more twitchy if anything. Whats the existing fork, ally or steel?0 -
A slight reduction in fork offset will probably not make a huge difference to handling - you're actually increasing trail which actually slows down the handling response:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_an ... e_geometry
In terms of fitting it's quite straight-forward, but given the risk of wrecking a fork, for the sake of £20 it might be best to get your LBS to fit it - I've frequently seen people cut the steerer too short to render an expensive fork useless. I've cut many a fork steerer, but each time I make the first saw cut I still get a nervous feeling! If you do DIY, fit and measure it at least 2 times before you make the first cut - there's no going back with carbon forks. The underside of an old ahead stem makes a good cutting guide.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
Ta guys, yes, potentially going from a 575g carbon/alloy steerer fork to a 350g (or so) 3T one.
That said, I might just change my handlebars from alloy to carbon (3T Ergonova to carbon version). Similar weight saving, much less difficult, probably more comfy.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
bendertherobot wrote:Ta guys, yes, potentially going from a 575g carbon/alloy steerer fork to a 350g (or so) 3T one.
That said, I might just change my handlebars from alloy to carbon (3T Ergonova to carbon version). Similar weight saving, much less difficult, probably more comfy.
Seems an awful lot of effort for 225g weight saving, especially since you already have a carbon bladed fork. Less then half-filled water bottle.
As for being easier to change the bars, I reckon I could change the forks quicker.
Anyway, up to you0 -
I always find the water bottle thing weird. I go out with a full one. Therefore any weight saving is always present
Anyway, it's more about "finishing the bike off," it's about 7kg now. This will make it UCI illegalMy blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0