Second hand componentry

DeeGee75
DeeGee75 Posts: 10
edited March 2011 in Workshop
I've got an old Peugeot frame that I'm considering stripping down and rebuilding in various configurations, although probably initially to convert to Fixie. Thing is, this is all going to be part of a huge learning curve for me, so I don't want to go out and get decent components only to strip threads, install them badly and mess them right up.

So I was thinking, as a start, maybe use second hand components, just so I can learn the mechanics side of it, before doing anything with anything new and decent.

However, I wouldn't have the faintest idea where to go for something like a second-hand racer wheel. I don't even know where I'd get a second-hand bike, to be honest.

Obviously there's e-bay, but if I'm buying sprockets I'd probably like to see them first, right? I'm a pretty mobile bloke, 'cos I'm all over the country racing on foot, so does anybody have any suggestions as to what best to do?

Comments

  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    can_of_worms.jpg

    I'm not sure where to start.... getting new kit to match with an old frame is tricky as you need to know the spec and dimensions of both to know what will fit and work. Plus there are hidden issues like hub spacings, chainlines, etc. which can throw you.

    In short, the forks+stem+bars interface needs to be thought through as old frames are 1 inch threaded and new stuff isn't. The chainset is easier as shell width is generally the same (68mm) and f.mechs can be bought with 28.6mm bands to fit. Rear hub spacing will determine what hubs will fit so keep and eye on that. Seatposts are easy.

    PS - don't buy s/hand sprockets. Not in my opinion.
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer
  • DeeGee75
    DeeGee75 Posts: 10
    Yes, I'm sure you're right about the sprockets, to be fair.

    In terms of the stem, it is actually a complete bike which I'll be stripping down, so although I'd potentially like to switch to flat bars from the current drop configuration, I've got a stem, so I'd only be replacing the bars, right?

    To be fair, it's the sixty quid for a new rear fixed gear wheel to put on a 20 year old frame worth pennies that I'm smarting from. I'd rather reconfigure the bike to put it back on the road than take it to the dump!
  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    If you run downtube shifters (a strong chance...) then you just need a flat bar and some levers which'll work with your brakes (i.e. not V-brake levers). Flat bar wetup usually run longer stems than an equivalent drop bar setup but you can suck it and see on this. Plenty of quill stems on ebay.

    Just get the chainline right, and your chain tension should be okay as I bet the frame has horizontal dropouts.

    I can't believe I'm posting on a fixed gear thread...
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer
  • DeeGee75
    DeeGee75 Posts: 10
    You'd be right all counts maddog. Downtube shifters, side-pull levers and horizontal dropouts. When my LBD implied that getting new racer-style brake-levers with my downtube gear levers would be an awful faff was when the grain of an idea was implanted to convert to fixie...
  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    extinguish the idea at once 8)

    If you have braze-ons for the downtube shifters then all you need are bolt on cable guides, and you can setup a geared cockpit, with road STI or flat bar shifters or whatever. It's not a big deal at all. Bolt the guides on, wire it up, bingo.

    The potential to run gears all depends on the rear frame spacing and thus what wheels you can fit, and thus what speed is possible.

    If you can only fit, say, 6 sprockets then you could still run a flat bar geared setup with, say, a thumbshifter on friction mode...
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer

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