HELP--Ultegra crack/bb cap stuck

naive
naive Posts: 47
edited February 2011 in Workshop
Hi Guys,

I need to replace my worn out ultegra BB. I've got a new one, but the cap on the non-driveside crank is stuck(*)! I've got the right tool, but it's plastic--presumably to prevent overtightening--so when I stick an allen key or spanner on it, it just slips. I've tried with the crank arm bolts loose and tight.

Any ideas? I don't mind trashing the BB, but don't have replacement parts for anything else.

(*) I don't think it was overtight and caused the BB to wear out; it's done a lot of miles with very little TLC. Possibly it's the other way around, with the movement in the BB causing tightning of the cap?

Cheers

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Assuming you're talking about HT2 cranks, you can get a replacement plastic cap for about £3, so you can employ slightly destructive techniques in removing it. eg tap a wood chisel into it and once embedded, twist anticlockwise.

    Do you have the correct tool for installing the new one? Little plastic daisy shaped thing that only allows you to do it up finger tight. Not meant for allen keys and the like
  • naive
    naive Posts: 47
    Thanks for the reply

    Yes, hollowtech II. Yes, I have the correct tool, designed to prevent over-tightning, and so useless for removing the cap once jammed!!

    Can you show me from where I can get a replacement? I've seen a couple of candidates online, but without pictures it's difficult to tell which is the right one.

    Also saw this; http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5145 which looks like it could be used to remove the jammed cap--does that seem right?

    Cheers
  • shmo
    shmo Posts: 321
    My technique for that is to undo the crank bolts completely. Insert the tool into the cap with the handle right next to the crank arm so you can grip them both, holding it in place. Then use a cloth or something to turn the tool to prevent mashed fingers.

    I use this by the way.
  • naive
    naive Posts: 47
    @Shmo
    Thanks, yes, that's what I'm doing, but it's just plain stuck!

    @keef66
    I found the relevant techdoc here: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FC/EV-FC-6600-2365E_v1_m56577569830621034.pdf

    So the part is Y-1G3 11000. I found it on Petra for 4.26GBP (http://www.petracycles.co.uk/fc6600-fc6603-crank-fixing-bolt-p-5425.html). Do you know somewhere where I can get it cheaper?

    Oh, then on CRC for 3.99GPB: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26580

    Seems you really need to know what you are looking for to find it!

    Cheers
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    That hope tool, even though it's about the fugliest manufacturing I've ever seen in a tool, looks to be the answer. Cheap and strong and a good chance the crank bolt can be saved with it. You could also just go to your LBS and have them pop it off and I don't imagine it would be too expensive. Personally I would just buy the Hope tool or something similar made of metal since you now need a new tool anyways. While you're deciding, dribble some penetrating oil around the crank bolt and let sit until ready to remove. Hopefully this will help make removal easier.
  • naive
    naive Posts: 47
    Thanks. Tool ordered, along with a new cap just in case. Current bolt currently stewing in penetrating oil!

    Cheers
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    Let us know how it works out. 8)
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I'd still whack a wood chisel through it then unscrew it.

    That Hope tool looks unneccessarily vicious for use on a plastic component!

    When you're replacing the crank after swapping the BB cups, make sure the splines on the axle are scrupulously clean, and apply a thin smear of grease. Pop the crank on and give it a couple of friendly whacks with the flat of your hand to seat it before screwing in the end cap to nip it up tight. Check for any side to side play before progressively tightening the two crank bolts to the reccommended torque.