105 Vs Ultegra.......

KHF
KHF Posts: 10
edited January 2011 in Road buying advice
Good morning everyone and Happy New Year.

As a newby to the forum I'm sure this topic has been covered more than once but I'd appreciate your comments. I'm looking at several new bike options for this year, all have 105 or Ultegra groupsets but there is an obvious price difference. Can you please explain exactly what I get for added cost?

I'm currently riding a Grand Fondo on 105 and it's been fine, actually can't fault it. As I ride spotive and the odd triathlon will I get more benefit from the groupset or (as I want) should I be spending the money on wheel upgrades etc, some of which I would do regardless of the groupset choice.

I read on here recently that the whole groupset thing is a bit of a "dick wave".......is it?

Comments

  • marginal gains really, if you're desperate to save every gram you can, then get the ultegra. better groups are lighter and usually feel nicer. However, if you aren't a ponse or a weight weenie, i really wouldn't bother, and would say that 105 is all you will ever need
    It's not the will to win that matters...everyone has that. It's the will to prepare to win that matters.
  • marginal gains really, if you're desperate to save every gram you can, then get the ultegra. better groups are lighter and usually feel nicer. However, if you aren't a ponse or a weight weenie, i really wouldn't bother, and would say that 105 is all you will ever need
    +1
    Have you considered SRAM... :wink:
    "That's it! You people have stood in my way long enough. I'm going to clown college! " - Homer
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    Depending on what wheels you have on the Gran Fondo it might be an idea to upgrade them and see how you get on with them. You could consider upgrading frame later if you still aren't happy and swap across the wheels and 105 groupset. Then again, you may be delighted with that overall mix.

    Peter
  • nochekmate
    nochekmate Posts: 3,460
    Save the money on upgrading the groupset and upgrade the wheels for a more noticeable difference
  • if you had the choice I would defiantly go for ultegra. It looks much better and the shifting and performance is far superior to that of 105.
  • Craig McA wrote:
    if you had the choice I would defiantly go for ultegra. It looks much better and the shifting and performance is far superior to that of 105.

    I've got both (5700 & 6700), and although I prefer the look of Ultegra, I wouldn't say that the performance is significantly better than 105.

    Take the advice already posted and get some half decent wheels and treat you bike to a new set of cables like Jagwire racer or summat.
  • FransJacques
    FransJacques Posts: 2,148
    Performance is the same but Ultegra is much lighter. I can't remember where I read it but the weight game from Ultegra to 105 is bigger than the weight gain from DA to Ultegra. Shows that Ultegra really is the one to pick for a host of reasons. I also remember reading that Shimano made the compromise of giving 5700 the new shifters and crankset features at the cost of making it lighter, b/c they needed to respect its strong price point. I hear it's the same of slightly heavier than 5600 but again, can't remember there I read that.

    105 is a strong contender for sure, but if you only have 1 nice road bike, go for Ultegra. I HATE sram shifting, to me it's the worst idea ever concocted (but admittedly the only option left to SRAM in light of what Campy and Shimano offer, so they took it) so I cannot recommend any SRAM groups for that reason. Oh, and their rear derailleurs are some of the ugliest things i've ever seen in my life. If want to see what pretty in a rear derailleur looks like, check out a late-80s Campy C-Record or a early 80s Super Record or a Dura Ace 7400 or the Lightweight carbon jobby.
    When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.
  • KHF
    KHF Posts: 10
    Hi Guys, thanks for the comments.

    I'd love to just change the wheels on the Ribble but I want to use that bike for work, the new bike will be my racer/weekender. I'd think about the SRAM but the bikes I'm looking at (Felt F5, Cannondale Supersix and a couple of others) don't have that option, which is a shame as I've SRAM on my mountain bike at it all works great. From what you've said I'm sticking with the 105 unless there's some superdeal comes up. At least this way I can have the Mavic Carbone SR wheels of been dreaming about.

    Have a great 2011 everyone :D

    P.S. I'm still interested in any more views you may have.
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    This may seem daft/ counter intuitive, particularly if you have already decided to change your bike; however please consider how quick and easy it is to swap wheels on a bike.

    I have one set for commuting and general use and a new set for training in the better weather times of year. After three years I am starting to get a bit twitchy but logically/ mechanically there's nothing to stop me continuing with current set up for another 1 or 2 years. Don't quote me on that last bit though :wink:

    Peter
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    Best thing I ever did on my road bike was go from 1900g wheels to 1500g, massive difference especially on hills.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    I struggled to tell the difference with the 6600 model Shimano Ultegra and the equiv 105 however the newer 6700 looks very nice and aero. I noticed a much bigger difference between Campagnolo groupos when I recently bought Centaur carbon groupset the difference was/is amazing.

    I'm now SRAM curious :lol:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    unixnerd wrote:
    Best thing I ever did on my road bike was go from 1900g wheels to 1500g, massive difference especially on hills.

    I've just treated myself to some RS80s and Conti GP4000Ss. Decided to weigh them against the RS10s and Conti GatorSkins that I had on there and, assuming I can count, there was a 0.8kg difference. The ride is transformed too (as I was told on here that it would be). Very happy
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Not that I know owt about Shimano Road gears but.......
    according to this thread, 105 weighs about 180gms less than equivalent Ultegra.

    On the other hand, I saved 140 grams by replacing the 25mm Schwalbe Duranos on my Look with 23mm Schwalbe Ultremo R1s. That cost £50 but I still have the Duranos on a second wheelset. If weight saving is the aim, there are loads of better ways to go than mucking around with the groupset.

    I'd go wheels, tyres, inner tubes.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • I believe the order of upgrade is

    Frame
    Wheels
    tyres/tubes (rotating weight)
    groupset
    Finishing kit.
    Tail end Charlie

    The above post may contain traces of sarcasm or/and bullsh*t.
  • i would get the best i could afford, so seems like for you it is ultegra and then save up and get new wheels when you have enough money, regards to wheels you can't go wrong with a set of ksyrium sl's
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I believe the order of upgrade is

    Frame
    Wheels
    tyres/tubes (rotating weight)
    groupset
    Finishing kit.


    Nah, I also find the order of upgrades is more dependant on the amount of cash in the bank.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Pedals? once again I can't remember where but someone mentioned loosing weight from the pedals helps.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    itboffin wrote:
    Pedals? once again I can't remember where but someone mentioned loosing weight from the pedals helps.

    Ditch the pedals altogether - I use sticks :lol:

    I think pedals are pricey to save weight on. With Look pedals, Keo Classics weigh 270g a pair and cost about £40. Keo Max save 10g per pair for another £30. If you actually want to save some real weight, you save a whole 70 grams by buying the Keo Blace Carbon Ti - for an extra £150 at least over the Classics!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Rolf F wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    Pedals? once again I can't remember where but someone mentioned loosing weight from the pedals helps.

    Ditch the pedals altogether - I use sticks :lol:

    I think pedals are pricey to save weight on. With Look pedals, Keo Classics weigh 270g a pair and cost about £40. Keo Max save 10g per pair for another £30. If you actually want to save some real weight, you save a whole 70 grams by buying the Keo Blace Carbon Ti - for an extra £150 at least over the Classics!

    I think the point was that it's less to do with the amount of weight lost but more with where the weight is lost, much like loosing weight from the wheelset. I really should make note of these article or perhaps they never existed :? :roll:

    How are the legs Rolf F? mine are killing me :wink:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    Probably easier to save weight on shoes than pedals. My own aren't that light but they're comfy :-)
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    itboffin wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    How are the legs Rolf F? mine are killing me :wink:

    Fine thanks though they ached most of the time over summer - eventually they seemed to sort themeselves out. Mind, I've not ridden since the 22nd :lol:

    Still riding through the pain? :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • carrock
    carrock Posts: 1,103
    unixnerd wrote:
    Best thing I ever did on my road bike was go from 1900g wheels to 1500g, massive difference especially on hills.

    I've just treated myself to some RS80s and Conti GP4000Ss. Decided to weigh them against the RS10s and Conti GatorSkins that I had on there and, assuming I can count, there was a 0.8kg difference. The ride is transformed too (as I was told on here that it would be). Very happy

    I found the same going from mavic cxp 22 to roval fusee

    I fitted lightweight tubes and ultremo r1s as well- total weight of mavics was 3.3kg. Weight of rovals is 2.4kg. Saving 900g on the wheelset feels like losing 2 stone off the body.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Rolf F wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    How are the legs Rolf F? mine are killing me :wink:

    Fine thanks though they ached most of the time over summer - eventually they seemed to sort themeselves out. Mind, I've not ridden since the 22nd :lol:

    Still riding through the pain? :lol:

    Yup

    New plan for 2011 and i'm not doing public stats :?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.