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Truvativ chainset stuck on

antflyantfly Posts: 3,448
edited January 2011 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi. I decided to service my botom bracket as it is making a gritty noise so I removed the non-drive side crank {it's a stylo} and hit it with a hammer and a block of wood to get it out. That worked ok but instead of sliding off it got stuck at the other end. I then had real trouble getting the crank back on but managed it eventually. Any suggestions as to how I can remove the stubborn crankset before I have another bash at it ?
Smarter than the average bear.

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    pull it straight out.

    a light tap on the armless end is normally enough to get it moving.

    more force but have new bearings ready.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • antflyantfly Posts: 3,448
    I got it moving ok but it just won't come all the way out at the other end. It's very frustrating.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • mattvmattv Posts: 992
    It should come out relatively easily. Check that there are no burrs on the splines at the LH crank end from where you were hitting it, if there are then try to gently remove them with a very small file. Do not damage the splines though...... Thats how it was fitted, so it must come off that way!
  • antflyantfly Posts: 3,448
    That's what I thought, the splines must be slightly damaged. I`ll have a closer inspection and get busy with a small file.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • antflyantfly Posts: 3,448
    Well it came off easily when I took the BB cup off and it soon became clear what was keeping it on, soms sort of metal shim as in the pic.
    http://amzuoq.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p ... jpg?psid=1

    Presumably the LBS who built my bike up put it on instead of the 2.5mm spacers on either side, cos it's a 68mm BB shell rather than 73mm. Does anyone know why they would do that rather than use the spacers and should I take it off and get the correct spacers or is it fine as is?
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • ian_worbyian_worby Posts: 331
    You have to use it with the Truvativ setup.

    remove it and press it back into the inside of the non drive side bearing, then smear a small amount of grease/anti seize on the inner face before you refit everything.

    That should stop it sticking if you remove the cranks again
  • antflyantfly Posts: 3,448
    I don't know what makes you think you have to use it, it says nothing about it on the sram website, it says use a spacer on either side. It looks like another cockup by the LBS and now the locking nut is loose so it's a pain in the censored to get the cranks on and off. I will be taking it off and putting the correct spacers on.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • ian_worbyian_worby Posts: 331
    Well then why ask for help if you're not prepared to listen?

    The collar steps down the internal diameter of the L/H cup and creates a stop for the axle to mate up against and stop you over tightening the L/H arm and crushing the bearings.

    If you remove it the the axle will be too small for the bearing and it'll break.
  • antflyantfly Posts: 3,448
    I am fully prepared to listen and i'm very grateful for any advice. I now gather from inspecting an old BB that the collar is part of the BB but is supposed to stay in the cup and not get stuck on the axle. The only way to remove it is with a hammer and screwdriver and now it don't look so good. It still doesn't explain what happened to the tube part of the BB and maybe the lack of it is why it got stuck in the first place. It all comes down to the idiots who work at the large bike shop I had to go to not putting the spacers on. That's why I never go there.
    Smarter than the average bear.
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