2011 Trek Madone 4.5 - 105 & Dura-Ace Mix - What next?

canbakay

started off at 9.8kg(!) now at 7.7kg - very undeceive as for the next step..stuck between new stem (white ritchey)
seatpost (3T Full black carbon team limited)
handlebar (3T carbon)
....or more dura-ace!!

....help!





Frame: 4 Series TCT Carbon Fiber DuoTrap compatible ( 58 )
Fork: Bontrager Race Lite
Bar: Bontrager Race VR-C
Stem: Bontrager Race Lite
Headset: Bontrager
Bar Tape: Bontrager Gel

Front Brake Lever: Shimano 105 5700
Front Caliper: Tektro R540 with Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 break-pads
Rear Brake Lever: Shimano 105 5700
Rear Caliper: Tektro R540 with Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 break-pads

Shifters: Shimano 105 STI 5700
Cables: Shimano
Front Mech: Shimano Dura-Ace 7900
Rear Mech: Shimano 105 5700

Seat: Selle Italia Gel SLR
Seat Post: Bontrager Carbon
Seat Post Clamp: Bontrager

Cranks: Dura-Ace 7950
Chainring(s): Dura-Ace 7950
Chain: Shimano 105 5700
Cassette: Shimano 105 5700
Bottom Bracket: Shimano 105 5700

Front Wheel: Mavic Ksyrium Elite Black
Hub: Mavic
Tube: Specialized
Tire: Schwalbe Ultremo R.1 700 x 23 @ 140 psi

Rear Wheel: Mavic Ksyrium Elite Black
Hub: Mavic
Tube: Specialized
Tire: Schwalbe Ultremo R.1 700 x 23 @ 140 psi
Pedals: Look Keo 2 Max

Weight: 7.7kg / 16.9lbs

Pokerface

Get rid of all the Shimano and buy Sram. That'll lighten it up. 8)

Lagavulin

I'd drop your tyres pressures first.

Stem, seatpost and maybe some nice TRP calipers?

2alexcoo

Er, I doubt that bike is 9.8kg stock. That's what your average aluminium bike with Sora weighs. Current weight sounds about right though.

As above, cheapest upgrade would be to let 30psi out of your tyres!

canbakay

wheels were horrendously heavy, 105 isn't exactly known to be light nor is the large frame....oops...to mention that it was with front & rear lights and pedals.

as for the tires, i use the ultremos on good roads & on what i call missions - according to shawble they go to 140...its puncture protection is low so i keep em pumped..

Pokerface

Don't get better puncture protection with lower PSI?

Lagavulin

And according to Vredestein my Fortezza Tricomps will go to 145. That doesn't make it a good idea.

Stuy-b

my tubs will go to over 200, but thats deffo not a good idea

canbakay

this is off the schwalbe website:

Why is inflation pressure so important in bicycle tires?
Only tires with sufficient inflation pressure can bear the weight of a bicycle. The following applies for the road: The higher the inflation pressure the lower the rolling resistance of the tire. The susceptibility to punctures is also lower with high pressure.

If the inflation pressure is continuously too low, premature tire wear is the result. Cracking of the sidewall is the typical consequence. Abrasion is also unnecessarily high.

canbakay

this is off the schwalbe website:

Why is inflation pressure so important in bicycle tires?
Only tires with sufficient inflation pressure can bear the weight of a bicycle. The following applies for the road: The higher the inflation pressure the lower the rolling resistance of the tire. The susceptibility to punctures is also lower with high pressure.

If the inflation pressure is continuously too low, premature tire wear is the result. Cracking of the sidewall is the typical consequence. Abrasion is also unnecessarily high.

Wheelspinner

canbakay wrote:

this is off the schwalbe website:

Why is inflation pressure so important in bicycle tires?
Only tires with sufficient inflation pressure can bear the weight of a bicycle. The following applies for the road: The higher the inflation pressure the lower the rolling resistance of the tire. The susceptibility to punctures is also lower with high pressure.

If the inflation pressure is continuously too low, premature tire wear is the result. Cracking of the sidewall is the typical consequence. Abrasion is also unnecessarily high.

Perhaps written with German roads in mind, smooth as a baby's wotsit. And almost certainly meant for dry roads too. In ROW, where the roads are rubbish, tires run at 140+ psi will be, at best, uncomfortable, at worst, dangerous.

Pokerface

Most people don't run their clincher tyres over 120psi. Or inthe range of 90-110psi. I personally find that low, but that's preference.

A slightly softer tyre can conform AROUND some road debris - like rocks - without puncturing. They are also less likely to explode upon hitting a pothole. :oops:


Just saying....

cougie

+1 on the lower PSI. A continental mechanic told me not to go over 100 PSI on my GP4000s - since I've done that - I've forgotten what a P******* is.

tx14

Pokerface wrote:

Most people don't run their clincher tyres over 120psi. Or inthe range of 90-110psi. I personally find that low, but that's preference.

A slightly softer tyre can conform AROUND some road debris - like rocks - without puncturing. They are also less likely to explode upon hitting a pothole. :oops:


Just saying....

but at the same time you're more likely to damage the rim when you hit a pot hole.

cougie

Not in my 5 years of experience running lower pressures. And I'm 85 kilos or so. Not been a problem at all.

I have blown two tyres in one pothole when I was young and foolish and inflated the tyres too hard. That was a bugger. Didnt realise I'd done them both until I'd fixed the first. And was out of tubes.

Pokerface

tx14 wrote:

Pokerface wrote:

Most people don't run their clincher tyres over 120psi. Or inthe range of 90-110psi. I personally find that low, but that's preference.

A slightly softer tyre can conform AROUND some road debris - like rocks - without puncturing. They are also less likely to explode upon hitting a pothole. :oops:


Just saying....

but at the same time you're more likely to damage the rim when you hit a pot hole.

Yes. If you run them at 50psi :roll:

Bobbinogs

OK, leaving aside the tyre pressure debate (I run 80F and 90R without any problems btw ), I don't understand what any of the options will give you in terms of tangible benefits for a large sum of cash:

"new stem (white ritchey)
seatpost (3T Full black carbon team limited)
handlebar (3T carbon)
....or more dura-ace"

Without trying to sound funny, what is it that you are trying to achieve for your money and how much have you got to spend? If you just want to go faster, your best bet might be, to quote someone who knows these things, to "ride up grades".

Pokerface

^--- he wants a lighter bike. Nowt wrong with that!

Bobbinogs

I agree, nothing wrong with that...but if the objective is as straightforward as losing weight, his bike is pretty light as it is and I still don't know what the budget is or what the target weight reduction is. In any case, surely there comes a point where Pounds v Pounds is part of diminishing returns and the best advice would be to keep the cash in the pocket or simply go to the weight weenie website?