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Is there anything I need to know to go 1x9?

Darra8Darra8 Posts: 721
edited November 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi Guys,

Once I get my new frame, I'm thinking of going 1x9 too, but wondering if there is anything special that I need to know before it will work.

I will upgrade my cassette to a 11-34 and also get a chain guide for up front. I currently have a truvativ stylo gpx crank with a 32 tooth middle ring. I have read that it would be better to go to a 36 tooth, but will any 36t middle ring fit? I will probably have to shorten the chain a bit too.

Is there anything else I need to buy, or do?


40 year old censored who "still" hates the thought of falling off!!


  • evo3benevo3ben Posts: 552
    Hi Steve. I have not long converted to 1x9. Takes a little bit of getting use to, bit harder on the climbs but all in all im happy with the set up.
    I changed my rear cassette to 11-34, took off the granny ring up front and got rid of the front mech, gear cable and shifter. I now have a chain device on front from superstar components which im still trying to set up but should be there this week.
    I did have a double set up up front with a bash ring replacing the large ring which i still have on.
    The only other thing i have changed is the middle ring. The standard one is ramped to help gear changing so i replaced this with an E-Thirteen non ramped version in a nice bling red colour. This along with the chain guide will help reduce the chances of the chain coming off.
    I stayed with 32T to get through the winter and when a bit dryer and im fit enough, i will change to a 36T.
  • Yup @ shortening the chain.
    Remember chain rings are easy to swap out so get the 36 and keep the 32 for those hilly rides.

    I'm on 1 x 10 and I'm about to move from a 32t to a 36t. I've just bought a Middleburn middle ring that is designed for shifting, but I used a XT 32t on 1 x 10 for 5 two hour rides and haven't had the chain come off once.

    I now have an MRP 1x chain guide, it's light and again my chain hasn't come off ever. It's also easy to fit and doesn't rub either.

    If you're bounding down hills or jumping, then get a 'full' chain device with top and bottom pulleys or guides.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,804
    My commuter uses MTB components and I run 1x9, as has been said you'll need a chain guide, the cheapest/lightest option is a front mech locked off on the stops (Mine is a Sora and with some fettling weighs less than 100g complete).

    As for gearing, that will depend very much on where you ride! As a commuter I run a 46T saint SS front ring so my experience won't help you, but if you rarely ever use the Granny, stick with the same cassette you use now, if you use the granny a reasonable amount go for an 11-34, but seems silly to get a new cassette (assuming you have 11-32 now) and go to a 36T at the front, may as well stick with 11-32/32 and save the money for the tiny benefit on top speed.

    If speccing a new build, don't forget with a 1x9 you can run a short or medium cage rear mech to reduce weight, make it look neater and reduce the risk of damage.

    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • .blitz.blitz Posts: 6,197
    I would stay with the 32T ring and 11-34 cassette unless you are allergic to Kryptonite and wear your undercrackers on the outside. I have recently thrown away the granny ring, shifter & mech, knocked a few links out of the chain and bunged on an e-thirteen guide thing and I can just about winch up Cannock's switchbacks. Obv I spin out on the descents but who pedals downhill? :)

    As above, hopefully I will be fitter/stronger/faster in the new year and then I can fit a 36T ring like the ones the big boys use :wink:
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