Chain length

cagebomb
cagebomb Posts: 47
edited December 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Right, when you take a new chain out of the packet is it the right size or do you have to shorten it to suit the size of gears you have?

I fitted new deore triple with 44t big ring and 11-34 cassette and I shortened the new chain to the same size as the old chain from the old and slightly smaller set up, so will it be wrong?

ta

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    it needs sizing.

    around the big cogs with out the mechs and add one full link (1").
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ok cheers
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    I do not precisely use that method.
    I fit it, and then see how the der moves in different gears.

    more faf than the above method but I prefer the results.

    Do not forget to take into account the chain growth if you have a full suspension frame.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • konadawg
    konadawg Posts: 447
    cavegiant wrote:
    more faf than the above method but I prefer the results.

    The results should be the same, if not, then either system is faulty.

    If the rd cage length is correct for the setup you have, when on big-big the rd should be damn stretched out but not at the stage where it's horizontal and ready to snap the chain, and when on small-small with the same chain length the chain should not rub against itself at the rd. Any of these problems assuming the correct rd cage length means that the chain length is incorrect, and vice versa if it is incorrect, you WILL have one of these problems, so it's not really like you can get "better" results whichever system you use, just a preference as to how to arrive at the same result.
    Giant Reign X1
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    cavegiant wrote:
    I do not precisely use that method.
    I fit it, and then see how the der moves in different gears.

    more faf than the above method but I prefer the results.

    Do not forget to take into account the chain growth if you have a full suspension frame.

    why bother, the above works and is recommended by many. Ok if you have a crap tourer with a 48 T big ring the chain will not be long enough. But that aint the MTB section.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • cavegiant
    cavegiant Posts: 1,546
    because I prefer the results.

    the normal method does not take into account suspension growth or any other weirdness.

    try it, you might like it ;-)
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Well it does if you measure at max axle to bb :wink:

    I guess this is finding snowflakes in the winter though, all amounts to the same.
  • nicklouse wrote:
    it needs sizing.

    around the big cogs with out the mechs and add one full link (1").

    Nick would you still use that method on a MTB with a double chainset? Also how should i accommodate suspension movement?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Yes, same method.

    Almost all bikes have maximum chaingrowth at full compression. Some models don't though... so depends what you have.
  • konadawg
    konadawg Posts: 447
    The number of chainrings is not relevant, as you are going for big-big which is all that matters for safety. The difference in range is compensated by the difference in RD cage length.

    Correctly set up the RD will not be fully stretched out when you are on big-big so any stretch will be taken up by what's remaining.

    It should not be a lot, if it were, the bike would suffer from terrible pedal kickback each time you hit a bump.
    Giant Reign X1
  • Couldn't you take the old chain (presuming it was the right length), lay it against the new chain, and use that as your guide?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Indeed - assuming the old one was right to start with :wink:
  • supersonic wrote:
    Yes, same method.

    Almost all bikes have maximum chaingrowth at full compression. Some models don't though... so depends what you have.

    Its a Santa Cruz VPP bike.

    I was just thinking potentially as you can use the whole cassette on a double in either chainring i might need to add a couple more links? I know a triple should not be used in big big and thought it might have been different on a double.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    But the size is measured with big/big in mind, so will work fine. I usually add two links anyway rather than the one.

    VPP - the most awkward one chain growth wise LOL. Let me just check...
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Here we go:

    scblurlt.jpg

    Just let all the air out of the shock, compress, then measure chain round big/big.
  • Legend, thanks for that.
  • nicklouse wrote:
    it needs sizing.

    around the big cogs with out the mechs and add one full link (1").

    Just about to fit a new chain. What do you mean "with out the mechs"?

    Edit --
    I should have googled more. You mean without threading chain around rear derail cogs.
  • tsenior
    tsenior Posts: 664
    Almost all bikes have maximum chaingrowth at full compression. Some models don't though

    what about marins quad linkage? changing a 2005 attack trail to 2+bash so need to shorten the chain

    cheers!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Marin's is quite pronounced: will get you a pic