Chain & Cassette
Just noticed a bit of slipping in 4th gear, chap in LBS says i need a new chain and cassette, i have Ultegra groupset on my Caad9, its only covered about 1500 miles since new, and is well maintained. does this sound about right? LBS says it will be just over £100 to put right 
with the correct tools it must be easy to do at home and get the parts of tin'ternet

with the correct tools it must be easy to do at home and get the parts of tin'ternet
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No. Buy a new chain (online, not from the shop) and see how you go, but a cassette definitely shouldn't need replacing after 1500 miles. My cassette is now on its fourth chain and has done at least 6000 miles.
I've been using these Mavic chains for a while. Haven't noticed any difference in shifting from a Shimano chain and they're only £15.More problems but still living....0 -
Measure your old chain before replacing it.
it should be 12" pin to pin, if it is more than 1/16" longer then it needs replacing and if more than 1/8" you usually need to do the cassette as well.
Thinking about it, slipping in only one gear sounds more like the indexing has gone rather than a worn chain/cassette. To get slipping in one gear you'd have to wear your cassette very evenly across the entire range except never use the 4th sprocket! If you rode everywhere in fourth then fourth would still be good on that chain but everything else would slip, even if you'd worn fourth down to having almost no teeth left.
Try inspecting the sprocket to see if there is any damage to it. If not then pop it up in a stand and do a fair few shifts to see if you can get it to misshift which will be the indication that your indexing is out. Also remove and clean your top jockey wheel because if you've lost some of the lateral float then that can cause similar symptoms.0 -
It depends on riding conditions/style. But yes, it is entirely possible. I've seen cassettes in need of replacing after less than 500 miles due to the rider crunching up hills in high gears.
This is all really easy to check. You can buy a chain wear indicator for about a fiver and you should be able to see the wear on the cassette. Look at the shape of the teeth and the curve between the teeth. Compare the shape with the teeth on the largest sprocket, which usually suffers the least wear, provided it hasn't suffered prolonged use with a stretched chain.
Once the chain has stretched, the wear all over the drive train increases rapidly. I've seen chains that are so stretched that they only contact 2 or 3 teeth on the chainrings and only 1 or 2 on the sprockets.
It is all really easy to change yourself with about £20 worth of tools. It's just a personal choice but I'd recommend joining the chain with a KMC powerlink. Simply because you can easily remove and refit the chain for regular cleaning.0 -
I agree with ride_whenever - try checking the indexing first.
And then if that isn't it, check the chain, as described above and if need be get a new chain.
If that still doesn't do the trick THEN think about a new cassette.
And order the stuff on-line. Your LBS sounds a bit dear.0 -
thanks guys, very help full, i think i will get a chain wear indicator, and might aswell get a chain, and replace when needed.0
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If the chain is worn then it will wear the cassette quite rapidly. If the chain is changed early enough (at 12 1/16" worn) then the cassette will be fine for several chain changes
So measure the chain, change if necessary.
Inspect the casette, if the teeth are worn replace it as well. Depending on the groupset a casette costs from 20 to 200 quid. My tiagra level sram on is about 40 for example.
That being said... Check the indexing first.2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid0 -
don't get a chain wear indicator, use a ruler, it is both cheaper and more reliable assuming you can read numbers.0