Cyclocross shoes
Mark Alexander
Posts: 2,277
I've just finally wrecked the cleats on my Northwave shoes (I think Vertigo). The cleatrs got welded and rounded off.
I need some new, reasonably priced shoes, preferably with a separate plate in the sole. Can anyone help wwith some suggestiobns please. I nearly had acoronary when I looked at the current prices.
I need some new, reasonably priced shoes, preferably with a separate plate in the sole. Can anyone help wwith some suggestiobns please. I nearly had acoronary when I looked at the current prices.
http://twitter.com/mgalex
www.ogmorevalleywheelers.co.uk
10TT 24:36 25TT: 57:59 50TT: 2:08:11, 100TT: 4:30:05 12hr 204.... unfinished business
www.ogmorevalleywheelers.co.uk
10TT 24:36 25TT: 57:59 50TT: 2:08:11, 100TT: 4:30:05 12hr 204.... unfinished business
0
Comments
-
Firstly, fit is most important - fancy-dan shoes are no use if they're painful or waggling around on your feet loosing power. A ratchet strap helps to secure them tightly.
Unlike most MTB shoes, having deep rubber tread is important for grip on dismounts and run-ups - many lightweight MTB shoes seem to have dispensed with the concept of grip. I'd also choose rubber as opposed to the hard plastic on some soles which give poor grip on wet surfaces. Finally, uppers need to be robust and easy to clean - synthetics like Lorica are the best IME. Got some Diadoras from CRC which tick all the right boxes.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
Thanks. the ones I have are fantastic. thrown in the washing machine job done. huge grippy soles. tick no rachet sonothing to break. tick wide for me is good. tick. it's the issue of a separate plate.http://twitter.com/mgalex
www.ogmorevalleywheelers.co.uk
10TT 24:36 25TT: 57:59 50TT: 2:08:11, 100TT: 4:30:05 12hr 204.... unfinished business0 -
Most high end mountain bike shoes that might have minimal tread will have big metal studs on the front and a pair of tall plastic stud type lumps on the heel. Plenty of grip for steep muddy run-ups.
I disagree that you need soft rubber soles, hard plastic works better. Is cross racing, if you're off the bike, it'll almost certainly be on very soft ground, so a hard sole works well. A soft sole would be good on rocks, but that's not likely in cross racing.
I've got quite a few pairs of Shimano mountain bike shoes and these are the ones I use for cross racing.
The plate into which the cleats are bolted is removeable and replaceable.
Have a look at Shimano M183s. They're the newer version.0 -
I'd recommend those Shimano's as well (provided they fit of course). I use mine primarily for mtbing and have ended up running on boggy / muddy ground in at XC races and they felt very stable, no slipping and slidding.0
-
They're available in standard width or an extra wide fit (M182E).
They're good at keeping the worst of the wet and cold out later in the winter.0 -
Well I've never used shimano shoes. The suggestion of staying 'dry' is entertaining.. Wales, winter Cyclocross.. Enough said. Thanks, I'll have a look. BTW it's not soft rubber.http://twitter.com/mgalex
www.ogmorevalleywheelers.co.uk
10TT 24:36 25TT: 57:59 50TT: 2:08:11, 100TT: 4:30:05 12hr 204.... unfinished business0 -
ok.
http://www.northwave.com/eu/shoes_det.p ... =2&area=2#
that's what Ihave now. I've looked at the site and can't work out which shoe has a replaceable plate inside.
Am I being thick. they're so comfortable I'd rather replace it with those if I canhttp://twitter.com/mgalex
www.ogmorevalleywheelers.co.uk
10TT 24:36 25TT: 57:59 50TT: 2:08:11, 100TT: 4:30:05 12hr 204.... unfinished business0 -
Has anyone any experience of modern Sidi MTB shoes? In particular the Mega line for wide feet?http://twitter.com/mgalex
www.ogmorevalleywheelers.co.uk
10TT 24:36 25TT: 57:59 50TT: 2:08:11, 100TT: 4:30:05 12hr 204.... unfinished business0