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Carbon Wheels

Brian1Brian1 Posts: 595
edited September 2010 in Road buying advice
I am thinking of buying a set of 46mm carbon clinchers.(Reynolds DV3K).I currently ride Fulcrum 1's.Will I notice any difference in speed.I dont race.I ride a Wilier Izoard if that makes a difference!

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  • Brian1 wrote:
    I am thinking of buying a set of 46mm carbon clinchers.(Reynolds DV3K).I currently ride Fulcrum 1's.Will I notice any difference in speed.I dont race.I ride a Wilier Izoard if that makes a difference!

    Think again...

    Not only you will waste a grand in somthing you don't need, but you'll have to use pads of a suitable materil to brake with carbon... which of course won't work with your current aluminium rims. So every time you swap, then you'll have to swap pads as well.

    Alternatively, you can buy the Cosmic Carbone, which at least have an alu rim... but again, if you don't race or TT, you will find it's just another huge waste of money. You might however get peer approval among some lots, who love these deep section wheels.

    I would invest that money in a once in a lifetime cycling trip... something like the Raid Pyrenean or the Alpine
  • inseineinseine Posts: 5,782
    I doubt you'll notice much if any difference in speed. They are about the same weight or a touch more than the Fulcrums. They are clearly more aero but I doubt you'll feel much.
    Braking should only be a bit worse and they look nice.
    Not worth the money if you want to go quicker. If you like the way they look and have the cash, then why not?
  • Back to the question, the answer is yes.

    ...and you can buy Swissstop yellow pads that work well on carbon and alu rims, so no need to swap brake pads all the time if you do swap wheels regularly.
  • inseineinseine Posts: 5,782
    But the question was will i notice any difference in speed. What's your experience of going from Fulcrums to Reynolds in term of speed?
  • Going from shallow rims like Fulcrum 1s to deeper rims makes you faster IME. I can feel the difference on the fast bits, and I keep GPS records of nearly all my rides and that data backs it up. I've no experience of specifically going from F1s to Reynolds DV3K though.
  • inseineinseine Posts: 5,782
    I don't doubt what you're saying and I'd be interested to see the data.
    I think the spokes are at least as important as the rims BTW.

    I messed about with wheels on my TT bike, ending up with a Zipp disc and a Zipp deep carbon and went no quicker. Might be just me.
  • you'll go faster on the flat bits, slower on the uphills.

    if you don't race why are you bothred about fast speeds anyway? Just go out and ride more
  • I keep seeing the statement that a 40 mm rim saves about 1 min for a 25 mile ride done at approx 25 mph. If that's true it would be a significant difference if you time trial but not something you'd notice in a non race situation. If you want to go faster investing the money in a power meter or a coach would be more cost effective,
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,692
    At threshold power output I'm about 1-2mph slower on the flat with my shallow rims than my deep ones. (Zipp 404 front 808 rear compared to IRD Cadence/CX Ray front, Open Pro rear)

    My deep rims are also lighter so better all round!

    That said, if I didn't race I wouldn't bother...
  • If you have £1k lying around and want to go faster get a powermeter and a decent book on training.
  • SpudboySpudboy Posts: 101
    I guess it's common sense that training and bike position are going to have far more effect on speed than fancy wheels BUT if you got the cash and love the look of deep section wheels then go get yourself some pretty carbon hoops; just don't kid yourself you'll be getting a big turbo boost from them.

    Enjoy your bike whatever you decide.
  • Brian1Brian1 Posts: 595
    Now you've got me interested in a power meter instead!I didn't think you would get a decent meter for that sort of money.Now I need recommendations
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,692
    Powertap Elite + on a Cadence Aero wheel from www.wheelsmith.co.uk and a Garmin 500 or 705...

    (Or push to a Pro+ if you can afford it...)

    However, if you don't race, again, I wouldn't bother...
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