Removing truvativ elita cranks

mroli

So, I've got a knocking coming from the BB on my Boardman Road Comp SC. I've got a new BB to put on (GXP) and tried to remove the truvativ elita chain set - should just be a 8mm allan key turned anti-clockwise? But can't get the bolt to shift. At all.

I suspect that no copper grease was put in - there certainly was none elsewhere on the bike. Any tips for getting it off would be great - was worried about snapping my key off (have a decent Ice Toolz one) - should I try smacking with a (rubber tipped) hammer?

I've tried squeezing using the crank as a counter point and that hasn't worked. Tips would be VERY welcome - cheers

M

dmch2

Is it a taper fit?

You'll need a special tool to get the cranks off:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103

Basically the allen bolt you've undone doesn't do that much, the cranks are held on by having a slightly conical hole that fits over a slight cone on the bottom bracket. That allen bolt is then done up so that the cones slide inside each other until they lock tight together. To separate them you need a threaded tool that pulls the crank off.

mroli

Sorry - its a GXP style BB, so I don't really need to worry about the taper/non taper thing - it should just slide out IF I can undo the sodding bolt on the cranks. That's the bit I'm struggling with and I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on removing that for me?

I don't think this type of crankset needs a crank extractor AND even if it did - i'm not at that stage yet!

dmch2

like this:

I'd better read the OP more carefully next time! sorry! :oops:

father_jack

good luck in removing it, spend 2 days removing campag bb from steel frame. :oops:

dmch2

I had to use a 4 foot steel bar to get enough leverage to get my old taper BB out!

Monty Dog

8mm Allen key in the non-drive side - unscrew anti-clockwise. You probably can't get enough leverage with a regular Allen key - suggest you use a 8mm hex-bit on an socket-wrench extension bar. or get your LBS to do it.

mroli

I thought that might be the only answer. Thanks Monty Dog - I can just feel the (decent) tool I've got starting to flex. More tools for the kit I guess!

father_jack

Too much leverage might not be a good thing, might be safe to work it over a few days. Think about it, if it's seized solid applying so much force could rip threads apart. Perhaps do a little day by day, maybe it might give a little.

markos1963

Must be a common problem because I have the same bike with the same knocking sound and I was wondering about getting the crank off.

I will have a go and let you know how I get on although I'm not hopeful as like you I noticed the bike didn't have a scrape of grease on it when it was delivered.

mroli

I'm half minded to go back to Halfords and make the buggers loosen it! Any thoughts on this as a hex set? http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003 ... ROKL5A1OLE Markos - if I get round to it before you I'll let you know how I get on!

Monty Dog

Father Jack wrote:

Too much leverage might not be a good thing, might be safe to work it over a few days. Think about it, if it's seized solid applying so much force could rip threads apart. Perhaps do a little day by day, maybe it might give a little.

Have you ever tried unscrewing a bolt tightened to 35Nm with a standard Allen key?
I have this particular chainset on one of my bikes and speak from the experience of having assembled / serviced hundreds of bikes using the right tools and having them tightened to the right torque.

father_jack

I've had a BB stuck, eventually did have to use a lump hammer on a park tool BB remover (lots of light taps) it did shift. I guess good thing about steel, rust is far easier to break apart than alu-alu oxidasation.

theotherjake

I have a Boardman with the same BB, I used a steel pipe over an 8mm allen key worked first time.

The problem is now it seems to come loose! I think I need to tighten the 16mm nut over the top to keep it in place.

Bear that in mind when doing it back up.

mroli

Just to follow up on this - I understand the 16mm nut over the top is actually a crank remover - ie when you untighten the 8mm nut in the middle, the 16mm nut pops the crank off. My 8mm wasn't turning at all and I have subsequently noticed that somewhere the 16mm nut has gone missing. I have therefore bought a spare nut system from Wiggle and will try again....

John.T

Correct. The 16mm nut is to remove the crank. Just keep unscrewing the 8mm one. When you get it to shift.

mroli

v v v annoying!