How do you clean your chain

Teach

I know this has been posted before but I can not find the link (if someone can please let me know how?)
I used to use muck off but it is expensive. I have a missing link. Once the chain is removed what do you use to clean your chain?
Any help greatly appreciated.

father_jack

Depends on how dirty it is, GT85 with a rag if it's not too bad then relubed, but if it's really gritty then white spirit, dried off then relubed.

tofu21

I have quick links on all of my chains. I simply tak the chain off the bike and pop it on a tub of degreaser. Leave it in there for a bit with the odd shake and then rinse in clean water. That will get it properly clean.

father_jack

Chain baths work well as the brushes get inside the links, and either side. Bit mucky as cassette/chainset rings will get degreaser fluid but if you're cleaning the bike anyway just wipe down the two (and probably want to remove old grease/lube from the cassette and chainrings) wipe chain, cassette and rings with a dry rag and everything is clean ready to be relubed

http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/parts- ... -13345.htm

Not bad for a tenner you get some lube and degreaser too.

sheffsimon

I dont.

Gazzaputt

Auto Glym engine cleaner applied with a paint brush and then hosed off.

Anonymous

Mine don't get dirty, I just have my bikes to look at and post pictures of on here.

BigJimmyB

Fenwicks FS1 - undiluted for really grimy chains and diluted 1:10 with water as a general wash.

Sometimes I take it off the bike, but mostly I don't bother.

I dry as well as possible with a rag, then allow to completely dry before re-applying lube.

Teach

If you don't take it off what stops the degreaser staying all over the rear mech etc and then when you re-apply lube what stops it coming off again.

cakewalk

Any recommendations on Quick Links For Shimano Chains?

Anonymous

cakewalk wrote:

Any recommendations on Quick Links For Shimano Chains?

KMC

BigJimmyB

Teach wrote:

If you don't take it off what stops the degreaser staying all over the rear mech etc and then when you re-apply lube what stops it coming off again.

Makes no odds, it all gets rinsed off.

Not sure what you mean abt lube. I lube chain then run through the gears - job done.

father_jack

Teach wrote:

If you don't take it off what stops the degreaser staying all over the rear mech etc and then when you re-apply lube what stops it coming off again.

Wipe it all down with rags. Usually when the cassette is black and starting to get gunk around the cogs and between each one, I'll do chain, cassette and chainrings. About 1 hour job.

Gazzaputt

Father Jack wrote:

Teach wrote:

If you don't take it off what stops the degreaser staying all over the rear mech etc and then when you re-apply lube what stops it coming off again.

Wipe it all down with rags. Usually when the cassette is black and starting to get gunk around the cogs and between each one, I'll do chain, cassette and chainrings. About 1 hour job.

:shock:

Show your bike some love!!!!!

father_jack

heh I do it's a winter bike so probably after 3 months it'll get done. It's not left to fall to bits, ie rusted/missing inners, rusted chain...well oiled just not spit and polished, it is a vehicle not something to put in a glass case.

ChrisSA

Jam jar with white spirit for a week, then rinsed with hot soapy water for a few minutes. Hang to dry. Refit and oil each link. Wipe excess of with kitchen towel/roll.

I got this from someone else on here...

father_jack

A week?

namastebuzz

This is the only proper way to clean your chain:


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

leejdavies

Ah did this just this morning. Takes about 45 mins.

> Remove chain
> Put it in a jar with white spirit
> shake and rattle for 15-20 mins
> Remove rear wheel and clean cassette whilst chain is cleaning
> rinse both chain and wheel
> drip dry then blowdry chain (pushes censored out from the links) then wipe dry
> lube chain with ceramic wax stuff and leave it to dry
> quickly clean the chainrings and jockey wheels
> refit chain

Job done. keeps it going for a pretty long time. I would recommend the
ceramic wax lube. It's awesome. Especially on brake and gear cables. brought them back to life.

rake

or use a cheap purpose built chaincleaner, 3 minutes better job, no need to remove chain. simple.

father_jack

yup. Used to do the chain in a jam jar bottle trick, with toothbrush. Never got it as clean as one of those slip on chain baths, cheap, quick and re-usable..

balthazar

There's no need to leave a chain in solvent for days. It's the agitation that does the work, not time. Successive rinses of the chain in clean solvent leave it totally cleaned, such that another rinse will leave the solvent practically clear. The chain cleaner machines are fine, but I think it takes longer to achieve a clean chain, and are more fiddly and messy. It is an insignificant effort to remove a chain with a manual link. I then rattle it in a few jam-jars of white spirit, which can be re-used endlessly by allowing the particulates to settle out, and then pouring off the spirit into another jar.

Also, removing the chain allows you to dry it completely with compressed air, a heat gun, or simply "flinging it" around (form your own visual image) and leaving it in the sun for a while. It is important to dry it well because any non-evaporated solvent or water will either dilute or emulsify the oil you apply.

To the doubtful: this procedure sounds more complicated than it is. If you take the chain off before you wash the bike, it can be completely clean and dry in half an hour or so, ready to go back on to the washed bike.

Many prefer not to clean the chain internally at all, choosing instead to wipe it decoratively. The only cost of this is a shorter lifespan of a fairly cheap component, which doesn't trouble many, with good reason.

rake

how can that be quicker or less fiddly than simply rotating the pedals for 2 minutes with a bath clipped on. :roll:

leejdavies

I have a chain cleaning device. What fluid do you put in it to clean it? Do you fill it with degreaser and spin away?

I found when I used it with a bike cleaner (not muc-off as its poo) it simply spread the gunk more evenly over the chain rather than actually cleaning it. :shock:

Bar Shaker

namastebuzz wrote:

This is the only proper way to clean your chain:


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Totally disassembling your chain and using different greases for the mating surface and for the pins

Buying a $249 cleaning kit for a £30 part of the bike.

I bet someone will fall for it.

rake

leejdavies wrote:

I have a chain cleaning device. What fluid do you put in it to clean it? Do you fill it with degreaser and spin away?

I found when I used it with a bike cleaner (not muc-off as its poo) it simply spread the gunk more evenly over the chain rather than actually cleaning it. :shock:

i use parrafin, 5l tub less than a gallon of petrol. run it once then put clean in and do it again. it will fetch it all off quick.

balthazar

rake wrote:

how can that be quicker or less fiddly than simply rotating the pedals for 2 minutes with a bath clipped on.

The multiple rinses of solvent: I qualified a clean chain. Unclipping the device, not spilling it, emptying it, refilling it; doing that a few times is messy and fiddly, in my experience. That's why I stopped doing it and went back to jam-jars. I don't clean the chain often, as the sight of a black chain doesn't appall me as it does others, so it isn't a frequent or dreaded chore.

huuregeil

I used to do the whole coke bottle/white spirit thing. Then I discovered Prolink - apply, wipe down, job down! Chain stays clean with minimal effort. Excellent stuff.

Except, in really foul weather, it's not quite so effective and requires frequent re-application, particularly if the roads are salty. So regular winter riding still requires some kind of oil-based lube. Intriguiged by this review:

http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&id=8474

and their spray/cloth cleaning method, I got some of the chain cleaner stuff and the wet lube to use on my commuter. It's genuinely pretty impressive stuff, the quick chain clean method is very effective, and the wet lube seems a fair bit less gunkier than FinishLine Green. I'll see how it fairs over the winter, but so far a big thumbs up!

05hcarth

Hi, I have two chains for winter use, KMC 8spd. I have a constant monthly cycle of cleaning the chains alternatvely. All you need to do is put a bit of muckoff on the chain and brush with a tooth brush to remove the stubborn crud then wash with a bit of water and put in a suitable sized jar. Then fill with about a centremetre of fenwicks degreaser (neat) and fill the rest with white spirit till it covers the chain. Leave the chain in the solution for up to two weeks (for ultimite cleanliness) shaking as many times a day as possible. Once this stage is complete wash off with TAP water and place in another clean jar. Pour boiling water in the jar until it covers the chain (Ideally put the empty clean jar in the microwave to heat, so the boiling water doesn't crack it!). Add a few drops of lkitchen disinfectant to take away the white spirit stench! Shake regularly and Leave in the hot water until it cools. Repeat this process until the water remains clean looking. Then hang the chain in a well ventilated warm area, preferably outside while it's sunny to dry for a few hours. If the sun doesn't shine where you live blow dry it. Then it's down to you. I lubricate mine after looking at the weather forecast for the oncoming week to know if it is a week for dry/wet lube. Trust me, your chain will sparkle!

father_jack

lol @ 05hcarth. What a chore, 1000 steps . 2 weeks? And no bike during that time. :roll:

1) Pour white spirit into bath cleaner
2) Clip onto chain below chainstay and rotate chainset for 2 minutes
3) Remove chain bath, use rag to dry. Leave it to dry
4) Put a drop on each link

Done in 1 hour including the drying

giant_man

huuregeil wrote:

I used to do the whole coke bottle/white spirit thing. Then I discovered Prolink - apply, wipe down, job down! Chain stays clean with minimal effort. Excellent stuff.

Except, in really foul weather, it's not quite so effective and requires frequent re-application, particularly if the roads are salty. So regular winter riding still requires some kind of oil-based lube. Intriguiged by this review:

http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&id=8474

and their spray/cloth cleaning method, I got some of the chain cleaner stuff and the wet lube to use on my commuter. It's genuinely pretty impressive stuff, the quick chain clean method is very effective, and the wet lube seems a fair bit less gunkier than FinishLine Green. I'll see how it fairs over the winter, but so far a big thumbs up!

Looks like good stuff. Cyclelife the Raleigh shops carry the Motorex line of products. Can't decide whether I should go for the wet lube or the dry, although of course we don't live in a hot enough climate to warrant the dry lube I'm guessing ...... that chain cleaner stuff does look impressive!