Trouble Seating Tyre

spannerchucker
spannerchucker Posts: 55
edited August 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

I seem to be picking up more than the average amount of punctures lately and as a result going to try the tubeless route. In the meantime can anyone offer any tips for reseating the tyre on the rim. I'm using Bontrager wheels and tyres both tubeless ready but I'm having a real mission reseating the rear tyre every time I get a flat.
Cheers,
Andy.
Jamis Dakota Sport
Fuel EX 8

Comments

  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    Practice. Some tyres are easier than others...
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Hang on, you're still getting punctures even with tubeless?
    The it would seem you're doing it wrong.
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    .... and as a result going to try the tubeless route....

    I think he has tubeless ready wheels and tyres but is not running them tubeless yet but is switching over to it now.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Ah, gotcha.
    Erm, the same technique as always applies then, get the lip of the tyre into the centre of the "detent" in the rim, this should allow it all to be easily fitted.
  • booldawg
    booldawg Posts: 290
    Is it pushing up off the rim whilst inflating? If so give it a healthy whack with the palm of your hand to seat it.
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  • No, if you look at the seam around the tyre the gap isn't even between it and the rim, so much so that sometimes the logo is hidden by the rim.
    Jamis Dakota Sport
    Fuel EX 8
  • neninja
    neninja Posts: 424
    Lubrication is what you need - washing up liquid mixed with some water round the bead/rim should help

    If this is still using tubes, also check the rim-strip hasn't shifted into the bead lock at the edge of the rim and is stopping the tyre seating
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    try also, inflating it to high pressures to seat it, THEN letting the air out to what you want after it's pinged into place.
    When running a tubeless kit, I often had to hit 80PSI or so before it would bang into place. It can be quite a loud BANG too!

    pop pop pop. brrrrrrPOP popopopop BANG pop.
    done!
  • Tom Barton
    Tom Barton Posts: 516
    Different tyres (/rim) combos can vary in how hard it is to seat the tyre.

    I always end up having a fight with my crossmarks (although it's gotten much easier with practice) but the other day I pinched a lust highroller and was able to unseat it easily - patch the hole and reseat with ease and even somehow reinflate with a hand pump!! (obviously I had a tube incase though!)
  • J@mesC
    J@mesC Posts: 129
    As yeehaa says - bonty tyres and rims need a decent amount of pressure to seat properly (mine creap/pop into place at about 60psi). Then deflate to required pressure :)
  • I think high pressure is the answer, just tried it a couple of times and that seems to do the trick every time now, so thank you all, chuffed to bits I finally seem to have it sorted....you live and learn and as some of ya said, 'practise makes perfect'. My only query now though is, if once I'm sorted with tubeless and I do get a puncture how do you get the high pressure and can you use co2 canisters with tubeless, I've heard some say yes and some no as it reacts with the sealant. I'm guessing it's back to tubes at that point but isn't that defeating the object or am I just being pesimistic?
    Jamis Dakota Sport
    Fuel EX 8
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    With tubeless, you generally run a sealant, so any punctures get sealed up almost instantly (hopefully)
    The only real problems are when you damage your tyre quite badly, like a sidewall slash or something.
  • Okay, thanks for that, tubeless it is, hope to be sorted by the end of the week. All the advice has been much appreciated.
    Jamis Dakota Sport
    Fuel EX 8