Trouble Seating Tyre
spannerchucker
Posts: 55
Hi,
I seem to be picking up more than the average amount of punctures lately and as a result going to try the tubeless route. In the meantime can anyone offer any tips for reseating the tyre on the rim. I'm using Bontrager wheels and tyres both tubeless ready but I'm having a real mission reseating the rear tyre every time I get a flat.
Cheers,
Andy.
I seem to be picking up more than the average amount of punctures lately and as a result going to try the tubeless route. In the meantime can anyone offer any tips for reseating the tyre on the rim. I'm using Bontrager wheels and tyres both tubeless ready but I'm having a real mission reseating the rear tyre every time I get a flat.
Cheers,
Andy.
Jamis Dakota Sport
Fuel EX 8
Fuel EX 8
0
Comments
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Practice. Some tyres are easier than others...0
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Hang on, you're still getting punctures even with tubeless?
The it would seem you're doing it wrong.0 -
spannerchucker wrote:.... and as a result going to try the tubeless route....
I think he has tubeless ready wheels and tyres but is not running them tubeless yet but is switching over to it now.0 -
Ah, gotcha.
Erm, the same technique as always applies then, get the lip of the tyre into the centre of the "detent" in the rim, this should allow it all to be easily fitted.0 -
Is it pushing up off the rim whilst inflating? If so give it a healthy whack with the palm of your hand to seat it.1999 Scott Vail - Work commute
2015 Giant Anthem 27.5 SX - Weekend riding
East Hants MTB on Facebook:
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No, if you look at the seam around the tyre the gap isn't even between it and the rim, so much so that sometimes the logo is hidden by the rim.Jamis Dakota Sport
Fuel EX 80 -
Lubrication is what you need - washing up liquid mixed with some water round the bead/rim should help
If this is still using tubes, also check the rim-strip hasn't shifted into the bead lock at the edge of the rim and is stopping the tyre seating0 -
try also, inflating it to high pressures to seat it, THEN letting the air out to what you want after it's pinged into place.
When running a tubeless kit, I often had to hit 80PSI or so before it would bang into place. It can be quite a loud BANG too!
pop pop pop. brrrrrrPOP popopopop BANG pop.
done!0 -
Different tyres (/rim) combos can vary in how hard it is to seat the tyre.
I always end up having a fight with my crossmarks (although it's gotten much easier with practice) but the other day I pinched a lust highroller and was able to unseat it easily - patch the hole and reseat with ease and even somehow reinflate with a hand pump!! (obviously I had a tube incase though!)Lapierre Spicy 516 XTR custom (2013) -http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129323320 -
As yeehaa says - bonty tyres and rims need a decent amount of pressure to seat properly (mine creap/pop into place at about 60psi). Then deflate to required pressure0
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I think high pressure is the answer, just tried it a couple of times and that seems to do the trick every time now, so thank you all, chuffed to bits I finally seem to have it sorted....you live and learn and as some of ya said, 'practise makes perfect'. My only query now though is, if once I'm sorted with tubeless and I do get a puncture how do you get the high pressure and can you use co2 canisters with tubeless, I've heard some say yes and some no as it reacts with the sealant. I'm guessing it's back to tubes at that point but isn't that defeating the object or am I just being pesimistic?Jamis Dakota Sport
Fuel EX 80 -
With tubeless, you generally run a sealant, so any punctures get sealed up almost instantly (hopefully)
The only real problems are when you damage your tyre quite badly, like a sidewall slash or something.0 -
Okay, thanks for that, tubeless it is, hope to be sorted by the end of the week. All the advice has been much appreciated.Jamis Dakota Sport
Fuel EX 80