Planet X Model B hub replacement
So, turns out the hub on my planet x wheels was made out of swiss cheese, as you can see: 
Seems a shame to bin the whole wheel (even if the set was only £100), can anyone help with advice on what parts/tools I need to replace it? Preferably with something a little more durable!!
Cheers!

Seems a shame to bin the whole wheel (even if the set was only £100), can anyone help with advice on what parts/tools I need to replace it? Preferably with something a little more durable!!
Cheers!
"And the Lord said unto Cain, 'where is Abel thy brother?' And he said, 'I know not: I dropped him on the climb up to the motorway bridge'."
- eccolafilosofiadelpedale
- eccolafilosofiadelpedale
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Comments
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file down the burrs and re-fit the cassette - every aluminium freehub will do that, Planet X or otherwise...0
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s'more than just burrs though, the cogs are actually dug in to the hub. I had to use a combination of a chain whip, a monkey wrench and sheer brute force to get them dislodged out of the hub. And, unsuprisingly, it's getting worse.
Maybe this picture shows it better:"And the Lord said unto Cain, 'where is Abel thy brother?' And he said, 'I know not: I dropped him on the climb up to the motorway bridge'."
- eccolafilosofiadelpedale0 -
it looks like it will hold a fair while longer. just tighten the lockring up well. unless you want to spend big on titanium or go for heavy steel. shimano hubs dont suffer.0
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Are you suggesting I just fit a cassette and then bin the whole thing when it gets too bad? Seriously though? I mean, I have a pair of open pro/105s I got 2nd hand, at least 5 years old, nothing like this, and I'm having to dig the "cogs" out of the hub when I change the cassettte, surely that can't be right?"And the Lord said unto Cain, 'where is Abel thy brother?' And he said, 'I know not: I dropped him on the climb up to the motorway bridge'."
- eccolafilosofiadelpedale0 -
mclarent wrote:Are you suggesting I just fit a cassette and then bin the whole thing when it gets too bad? Seriously though? I mean, I have a pair of open pro/105s I got 2nd hand, at least 5 years old, nothing like this, and I'm having to dig the "cogs" out of the hub when I change the cassettte, surely that can't be right?0
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mclarent wrote:Are you suggesting I just fit a cassette and then bin the whole thing when it gets too bad? Seriously though? I mean, I have a pair of open pro/105s I got 2nd hand, at least 5 years old, nothing like this, and I'm having to dig the "cogs" out of the hub when I change the cassettte, surely that can't be right?
Same thing happened to me. One best thing i did was to stop using factory wheels, unless of the bombproof kind. Bin the B now to stop further annoying recurrence. Rely on your trusty reliable Open Pro handbuilt's. They will give a better workout. You can concentrate on your training instead of trying to miss every bump.
Although i find using a low spoke count, factory wheel such as a Model B just on the front without buckling and get the benefits. The buckles had always been rear.0 -
mclarent wrote:Are you suggesting I just fit a cassette and then bin the whole thing when it gets too bad? Seriously though? I mean, I have a pair of open pro/105s I got 2nd hand, at least 5 years old, nothing like this, and I'm having to dig the "cogs" out of the hub when I change the cassettte, surely that can't be right?
the Shimano freehub is steel, not aluminium - which is why you don't get the same level of indentation. IMO, that freehub is still perfectly usable - but when it isn't, just order a new freehub from PX. SRAM cassettes seem to do less damage to aluminium freehubs than Shimano cassettes, so it might be worth considering using one of those as well...0 -
My PX model B's have done the same thing - still perfectly useable.
If it starts to become an issue in terms of actually affecting your riding then the cheapest option is to get a new freehub body - very easy to take off.
I have heard that 105 and below cassettes are more prone to digging in than ultegra upwards, but don't know how true this is.
I've just switched to some handbuilts for my main wheels due to nipple breakage on my model b's, but will repair as they are good wheels.Mens agitat molem0 -
There is a technique involving pop rivets (the long kind) that prevents the cogs from independently rotating which is what causes this damage. I haven't tried it yet, but am thinking of giving it a go when I put a new cassette on my spare rear Model B.0
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It is because they are 9/10 speed freehubs, with shorter splines than 10 speed only freehubs. Shimano 10 speed cassettes have taller slots for 10 speed only freehubs, when fitted to 9 speed alu freehubs, this happens. SRAM 10 speed cassettes have normal slots I think, so should resolve the issue, otherwise put pop rivets through some of the cassette holes as suggested, get American Classic cassette clips (they designed these as their own hubs suffer in the same way), or get a 10 speed specific freehub from P-X (I have 2 sets of model B's, one 9/10, one 10 speed only).0
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Thanks for the advice guys, appreciated, some options there. And sorry if the original post seemed a bit rude - was after wrestling the cassette off. Nobody wants to have to apply a monkey wrench to a freehub!!!"And the Lord said unto Cain, 'where is Abel thy brother?' And he said, 'I know not: I dropped him on the climb up to the motorway bridge'."
- eccolafilosofiadelpedale0