Chain wear and new chain care questions

petemadoc
petemadoc Posts: 2,331
edited August 2010 in Workshop
Simple question, I've done about 1000 miles and can see signs of visible wear but was wondering how you know when to get a new chain.

Comments

  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,542
    measure it

    either buy a gauge, or use a ruler

    see how here, scroll down to the section "Measuring Chain Wear"...

    http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

    gauges...
    basic: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/LifeL ... 360031491/
    luxury: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Park_ ... 300001800/
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • topdude
    topdude Posts: 1,557
    Try the simple method, using a steel rule and the chain under tension measure a 12 inch length from the edge of one pin to the same point 12 inches on.
    If it is less than 1 sixteenth over it is ok,
    More than 1 sixteenth over consider it worn,
    1 eighth over is very worn and would need a cassette as well.

    Measuring is more accurate than using a chain checking tool :D
    He is not the messiah, he is a very naughty boy !!
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    topdude wrote:
    Try the simple method, using a steel rule and the chain under tension measure a 12 inch length from the edge of one pin to the same point 12 inches on.
    If it is less than 1 sixteenth over it is ok,
    More than 1 sixteenth over consider it worn,
    1 eighth over is very worn and would need a cassette as well.

    Measuring is more accurate than using a chain checking tool :D
    +1.
    My Fleet.
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    OK so I finally got round to actually measuring my chain and it's almost dead on 1 sixteenth over.

    Does this mean I need a new chain after just 1000 or so miles? Is this normal? How often should you expect to replace a chain? It's a shimano 105 I think.

    Thanks
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    Also looking at what chain I would need to buy, there seems to be different codes on shimano chains

    dura ace 7900, 7801,

    105 in 5600 or 5701

    What's the difference?
  • kettrinboy
    kettrinboy Posts: 613
    At a sixteenth inch wear over twenty four links its just getting to the stage where it will wear the cassette and chainrings, so you can change the chain now and assuming you get the same wear rate again you might get through another 2 chains before you need a new cassette, or you stick with this chain and cassette/rings until its worn out in which case it could go on for thousands of miles, how many depends on lots of variables,ie how often it gets wet/cleaned/lubed/stressed, but my ultegra chains done 7700 miles and is worn just about an eighth inch over twenty four links, but the gears still shift cleanly and the chain never slips, ive had a new complete chainset ready to fit for over two years now but it just keeps working well so why take it off, if your running 105 then a 5600 should be the right chain.
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    New 105 chain purchased from CRC

    I'm wondering if I'm not maintaining the chain properly, is it normal to wear out after the 1000 mile mark? I had a Giant mountain bike when I was a kid and rode it everywhere, probably did many thousands of miles on it and never did any more than add a bit of oil. The chain never needed changing, never slipped, never had any problems.

    Are these components more sensitive than cheaper ones? The only reason I thought the chain might be wearing is cos when I'm going slowly I can feel each tooth connecting with the chain through the pedals.
  • topdude
    topdude Posts: 1,557
    Are these components more sensitive than cheaper ones? The only reason I thought the chain might be wearing is cos when I'm going slowly I can feel each tooth connecting with the chain through the pedals.
    What you are feeling is crud and grit grinding away inside the worn rollers on the chain.
    You can either clean and re-lube your chain and change it when worn out or just consider chains as consumable items and change them before they get worn.
    I have no problem with fitting a new chain (only £15 or so) before it is worn so everything keeps running smooth and quiet.
    I think when we were kids chains lasted forever, so did summer and WagonWheel biscuits :D
    He is not the messiah, he is a very naughty boy !!
  • Wamas
    Wamas Posts: 256
    Whe you were a kid, you wouldn't have had a 10 speed rear cassette.

    The more cogs on your cassette, the narrower the chain required meaning the plates are thinner. This in turn means the chain stretches much quicker.

    Also, most people use to run their chain, cassette and crank rings in to the ground. Meaning when something did go wrong, you had to replace the lot at the same time.
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    Cassette and chainrings cleaned, new chain fitted . . .

    Runs smooth as a smooth thing and feels much better.

    One more question, is the factory lube on the chain enough on it's own? I read somewhere that it's better than the lube you apply.
  • balthazar
    balthazar Posts: 1,565
    PeteMadoc wrote:
    One more question, is the factory lube on the chain enough on it's own? I read somewhere that it's better than the lube you apply.
    The factory applied grease is ideal chain lubricant, though it's sensible to wipe it gently from the outside of the chain with a solvent-damp rag, to minimise the amount of dirt picked up. Be very sparing – you shouldn't dissolve the grease within the chain links.

    Eventually it will become contaminated with grit, however, at which point you should clean the chain completely and re-oil it, for the longest life; or, oil it periodically; or pick any of the pigeon-dance chaincare regimes which appeals to you. A broad range are advocated here.
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    Maybe I should start a new thread on chain cleaning. Is there an official / recommended way to clean your chain?
  • balthazar
    balthazar Posts: 1,565
    PeteMadoc wrote:
    Maybe I should start a new thread on chain cleaning. Is there an official / recommended way to clean your chain?
    Rattling the removed chain in 3 or 4 successive rinses of solvent in a jam jar works well, and is quick. Be sure to dry the chain out thoroughly before re-oiling. Removing the chain for cleaning is only practical with a manual-breaking chain link, which don't come with Shimano chains but can be retro-fitted.

    You needn't worry about this for some time, though, as the supplied grease will last a while. You may prefer not to clean the chain properly but just re-oil it on the bike: you probably won't notice that it wears out conspicuously early, unless you're particularly assiduous about these things.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

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