Trek Madone 5.2 BB crack.
Comments
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Well it's a bolt that failed twice for me on my 2009 56, not sure if there's anyway of checking to see if it's about to fail. I don't know how the new mast cap has been designed so that the failure can't happen again - maybe the fit is tighter? Unsure about that as maybe it could get stuck if tight? Or maybe beefier bolts?0
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Mudshark,
prior to the bolt failure, did you often adjust the saddle height?
I have set mine and torqued it to within the correct tolerance range and plan to leave it alone!0 -
No, once installed I left mine alone - the 1st time was installed by the retailier, the 2nd by me and torqued to 6Nm; both times failed after just over 1000 miles.0
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Tks for the info,,, A few hundred miles to go before I get to the danger zone,,,,lets hope the 2010's are immune from this issue.
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Evening - I don't know if you have seen my earlier post, but I have just bought a second hand 2008 5.2 - i am trying to adjust the height of the seat but after untightening the allen bolts and actually removing them, the cap won't budge - do I just need to force it or is there a special technique - having read this thread I don't want to knacker things. My guess is the previous owner set the seat height at new and has never moved it since.
Any advice greatly appreciated0 -
sparkins1972 wrote:Evening - I don't know if you have seen my earlier post, but I have just bought a second hand 2008 5.2 - i am trying to adjust the height of the seat but after untightening the allen bolts and actually removing them, the cap won't budge - do I just need to force it or is there a special technique - having read this thread I don't want to knacker things. My guess is the previous owner set the seat height at new and has never moved it since.
Any advice greatly appreciated
My guess would be that its be that its been glued to stop it moving.0 -
sparkins1972 wrote:Evening - I don't know if you have seen my earlier post, but I have just bought a second hand 2008 5.2 - i am trying to adjust the height of the seat but after untightening the allen bolts and actually removing them, the cap won't budge - do I just need to force it or is there a special technique - having read this thread I don't want to knacker things. My guess is the previous owner set the seat height at new and has never moved it since.
Any advice greatly appreciated
I would think it's just stuck. There's no special technique to getting it off but you may have trouble.
You could take it to a Trek dealer and have them do it (that way if it DOES break it's their fault and not yours) or you could try sitting on the top tube of the frame (to weigh the bike down) and hitting under the saddle with a rubber mallet to get the mast loose).
I've had problems in the past getting the mast to move.0 -
That did the trick, many thanks - called my local Trek stockist but no reply, so I cycled out there to find the shop is closed on a Monday.. Cycled home with a right monk on took the saddle off, sat back to front on the top tube and with a bit of grunt managed to loosen it off - I figure the previous owner had just ;left the seat at the same height for a long time and it had seized up - is there any special grease or lubricant that you can put on them to prevent it?
Cheers0 -
Some chain suck.0
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Well I've finally received my new seat mast cap which apparently was flown over from the US and solves the problem of breaking bolts. Well it looks the same to me though the bolts are slightly different - no idea if they're any stronger but my engineer friend thinks no better. So I've fitted and will now be worrying about when it'll next break - probably not until after the winter as I doubt I'll use it much until then as keep the Madone for fairer weather.0
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I had my 5.2 replaced by a 5.9 frame which has been nothing but trouble. (see start of this thread) The faults have been mainly caused by my shop not fitting everything back on properly after the frame swop but the cabling on these bikes is a bit of an issue IMHO, everything has to be absolutely spot on for the change to be good. Just thought I would post again, though, as my original problem was the BB which cracked, now the new frame needs new bearings after 5K miles (mostly dry) and the bearings just "fall out" of the frame when you remove the chainset. They should be a press fit and maybe its this play which has caused premature failure. I'm going to have a careful re-build and see how things go! Anyone changed the bearings on this bike would like to comment?0
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Hi there
Just spotted your recent post and thougt I'd relate my recent experience for your benefit.
Bought a 2011 Madone 5.9 back in January and had a fair few uneventful miles over the winter period. Did the Rutland CICLE Sportive back at the end of April and the weather conditions were pretty dire. On my first ride after that sportive I noticed a grinding sound coming from the BB area. Was concerned about water and debris having got passed the seals so decided to strip the BB down for a clean and inspection.
I read up in advance that the bearings were just a push fit into the BB shell so was careful during the dismantling of the crankset. However when I pulled the drive spindle out of the BB, the drive side bearing came out on the shaft of the crankset. I tried to remove the bearing on the non-drive side but it seemed to be firmly wedged into the BB and I didn't want to risk anything by applying any incorrect leverage.
I cleaned and greased both bearings, the crank drive shaft and the 2 bearing seals and reassembled. All seemed fine and I have since done the Lincoln Grand Prix Sportive (100K) without incident.
Lesson is that the bearings do genuinely appear to be a push fit into the BB and I'm sure if I had found a suitable tool I could have got the non-drive bearing out OK.
I am going to order a replacement set as a back up but having only done about 2000 miles I'm hoping I won't need them any time soon.0 -
arlowood wrote:Hi there
Just spotted your recent post and thougt I'd relate my recent experience for your benefit.
Bought a 2011 Madone 5.9 back in January and had a fair few uneventful miles over the winter period. Did the Rutland CICLE Sportive back at the end of April and the weather conditions were pretty dire. On my first ride after that sportive I noticed a grinding sound coming from the BB area. Was concerned about water and debris having got passed the seals so decided to strip the BB down for a clean and inspection.
I read up in advance that the bearings were just a push fit into the BB shell so was careful during the dismantling of the crankset. However when I pulled the drive spindle out of the BB, the drive side bearing came out on the shaft of the crankset. I tried to remove the bearing on the non-drive side but it seemed to be firmly wedged into the BB and I didn't want to risk anything by applying any incorrect leverage.
I cleaned and greased both bearings, the crank drive shaft and the 2 bearing seals and reassembled. All seemed fine and I have since done the Lincoln Grand Prix Sportive (100K) without incident.
Lesson is that the bearings do genuinely appear to be a push fit into the BB and I'm sure if I had found a suitable tool I could have got the non-drive bearing out OK.
I am going to order a replacement set as a back up but having only done about 2000 miles I'm hoping I won't need them any time soon.
That about sums it up. The bearings should be a tight fit-there are lots of videos on U-Tube showing how to get them out properly. Water can and does get in and lots of grease is no gaurentee of keeping the water out. I only use my bike in the dry although you can't always avoid the odd shower. Regular maintenance is the answer!0 -
An update on my frame.
The new seat mast cap was indeed no different to the previous ones and failed again after just over 1000 miles. My bike shop told me the bolts are intended to fail in order to save the frame so are intentionally weak. Well having this sort of failure so often is not acceptable so I caused a fuss and eventually managed to get a new frame with the new style seat mast cap - they offered me a 2011 5.9 but I wanted the 2012 so paid a bit more for that. Hoping the other issues mentioned here have now been resolved with the latest frames!0 -
mudshark wrote:An update on my frame.
The new seat mast cap was indeed no different to the previous ones and failed again after just over 1000 miles. My bike shop told me the bolts are intended to fail in order to save the frame so are intentionally weak. Well having this sort of failure so often is not acceptable so I caused a fuss and eventually managed to get a new frame with the new style seat mast cap - they offered me a 2011 5.9 but I wanted the 2012 so paid a bit more for that. Hoping the other issues mentioned here have now been resolved with the latest frames!
That's the same frame I got as a replacement but still have BB issues.0 -
Oh flip just found that water has got into my BB and the bearings have corroded. It looks to me that it's easy for water to get in underneath as there's a gap in the shell where the Di2 battery would go. Is this how yours looks or should there be a cover there? Back to the shop I go....0
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mudshark wrote:Oh flip just found that water has got into my BB and the bearings have corroded. It looks to me that it's easy for water to get in underneath as there's a gap in the shell where the Di2 battery would go. Is this how yours looks or should there be a cover there? Back to the shop I go....
No, mines pre DI2 but I've just changed the bearings on mine after 2-3 years use, not good, but they were only £28 so not too bad.0
