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Brakes needing bleeding

mikeyj28mikeyj28 Posts: 754
edited July 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi All

I know this may seem like a 'how long is a length of string' question but i shall ask none the less.

If i'm clocking about 350-450 miles a month of XC riding , after how long roughly would i be looking at bleeding my brakes?

Is there a noticeable difference in eprformance overnight between the brakes being good & needing bleeding or is it more gradual?

The brake is a Juicy 5 front.
Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.

Posts

  • ride_wheneverride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Generally it's a gradual decline, but if they're well set up they shouldn't need bleeding for a while. If you're really bored you could just do it every 6 months with a big service. I tend to do my big strip clean services before and after winter.
  • mikeyj28mikeyj28 Posts: 754
    Generally it's a gradual decline, but if they're well set up they shouldn't need bleeding for a while. If you're really bored you could just do it every 6 months with a big service. I tend to do my big strip clean services before and after winter.

    Is it relatively easy to do? Would once a year (in the winter when riding is not so common)be ok or is that cutting it a bit fine?

    Thanks for the response
    Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.
  • ride_wheneverride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Juicy's are a bit of a pain, but certainly doable. TBH if you're unsure about it then leave it until you notice a drop in performance!
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    When they are spongy or dont retract properly they need bleeding. Simple.

    Juicy's are dodle as long as you follow the SRAM advice and not park tools :D

    It might take you an hour to do both the first time, but after than you can do it in 10 mins each.
  • I'm running Avid Juicy 3 brakes front and back on my Giant XTC 4.0, had them less than a year and over the last 2-3 months my rear brake has caused me nothing but problems. When it comes to hydraulic brakes I don't really have a clue so hoping there is a guru out there who could throw abit of advice my way.

    THE PROBLEM - The rear brake has no stopping power what so ever i'm yanking the lever pretty much to the end of it's travel with nothing stopping me, nothing like the power the front brake is giving as i'm using that as a comparison. I've sent the brakes back to Merlin who stripped them down, inspected everything and bled them (this was only a month ago tops) they reported they were now working fine and sent them back. I mounted them following the instructions given to me in the box (paying good attenion to aligning the caliper to the rotor) went out riding, and afew weeks later i'm back to square one with no stopping power at all. I've replaced the pads on there so this can't be the problem. Is this a bleeding issue?
    Pretty much at my wits end with this now as it's been an ongoing issue for a while and i'm missing lots of good riding weather down here in sunny Devon....VERY ANNOYING.


    Cheers.

    Jay
    [/b]
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    Jay - sounds like a problem that is more serious. Did Merlin explain what they did? Have you tried pumping and clamping them up over night to see if anything leaks?
  • TincaTinca Posts: 16
    i have a similar problem with my front, useless!!
    I bled them on sunday following the avid instructions, went out on the monday and it was still censored , better, but censored all the same.
    All i can think of now is the pads are knackered, so when my collar bone is sorted, i will be getting some more pads, atleast i have a few weeks to think about it
    2009 Rockhopper Comp
  • snotty badgersnotty badger Posts: 1,593
    I've had Juicy 3s for 20 months with regular riding and not had to bleed them once!

    I will change the fluid soon though- I'm pretty sure even in cars your suppose tochange it every 2 years?
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,804
    Fluid change in cars is due to water absorbtion, the sealed diaphragm system on bikes (cars are vented to atmosphere) is not the same, the usual service interval for fluid in cars is 3 years.

    Simon
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • snotty badgersnotty badger Posts: 1,593
    Ahh in that case I'll leave them alone!

    If it ain't broke don't fix it.. :lol:
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • johnsavjohnsav Posts: 775
    Fluid change in cars is due to water absorbtion, the sealed diaphragm system on bikes (cars are vented to atmosphere) is not the same, the usual service interval for fluid in cars is 3 years.

    Simon

    sorry but thats not quite accurate. A cars brake system is sealed. If it were vented to atmosphere the fluid would absorb moisture like a sponge and become useless.
    Likewise with anything using brake fluid.
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