specialized roubaix pro crank problem

bing gordon
bing gordon Posts: 662
edited July 2010 in Workshop
i'll start by saying that im not the best with repairs but im always willing to have a go.

after slowly working up to buying a roubaix pro 2008

http://www.specialized.com/gb/en/bc/SBC ... nuItemId=0

i've i heard a large sound today , like a chain sliipping and not just biting when changing gear.at this point i found that the off side crank arm is loose.you can move up and down about 10mm up and down but im unsure how to tighten things up or even how to get to the BB just to see if its knackered.
im not sure if the problem is related to what i heard but now i get a click every revolution and a slip.
the only way i can see to try and take a peek in is through the crank arm on the drive side but after removing the small silver insert + screw im stumped.
can anyone tell me how i go about removing it to get at the BB ? and if there's a video of it that would be ultra handy.

sorry if i sound a bit thick but im scared of playing around with the bike unless i have someone to show me the ropes.
T.I.A

Comments

  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    There should be an Allen key hex head on the crank - have you tried realigning the crank and tightening it up?
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • bing gordon
    bing gordon Posts: 662
    ummmm , , its a "FACT integrated carbon crankset" ,there's a silver cap with a screw inside ( both about an inch in length) but to me they seem to serve no purpose what so ever other than block the hole.if you tighten it it just tries to spin round.
    once removed i can see right through offside crank hole to a metal hole inside crank arm of the drive side.
    this metal hole it looks round not hex shaped so there's nothing to tighten.

    is there something missing from inside the offside crank arm that goes through the BB to the drive side crank arm ?.
  • bing gordon
    bing gordon Posts: 662
    can anyone help please ? ive a charity ride coming up this saturday and i really dont want to let them down.
  • bing gordon
    bing gordon Posts: 662
    i did look at that earlier , if you look on page 3 at the breakdown of all the components what actually pulls the left and right crank arms with the teeth ? is it the m12 bolt ?cause if it is then mines not friggin there !!!!.
  • Weejie54
    Weejie54 Posts: 750
    It appears to be the bolt number 7 on the exploded parts diagram on page 3.
  • bing gordon
    bing gordon Posts: 662
    last 1 for the night ,so once i've removed the small screw and cap should there be a allen key hole directly behind it or is it all the way thruogh the BB on the other crank ?.
  • Weejie54
    Weejie54 Posts: 750
    Should be a bolt behind it - but a fair way down. 6mm allen key to remove it.
  • bing gordon
    bing gordon Posts: 662
    ok cheers for that , i'll take another peek this morn .
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Looks like the bolt / nut arrangement that holds the two halves of the spindle together is located right in the middle, so you'll need a long 6mm hex bit, preferably in a torque wrench.

    If it were mine though I'd have to unscrew the thing and take it to bits to examine the splined mating surfaces. Your description of noises makes me think something may have slipped.

    Are the cranks still pointing in the right directions, ie 180 degrees apart?
  • bing gordon
    bing gordon Posts: 662
    thanks for that keef66 , you were right ,the locking allen key bolt is located deep inside the crank arm ( bb).
    when you look down it it actually looks round and i didnt have a 6mm long reach allan key.i went out and bought a cheap set of long reach allen keys and as soon as i tightened it all up the problems gone.
    thanks everyone who helped on the thread.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Good to hear!

    According to the tech doc it needs tightening to 34Nm. You sure you were able to give it that much grunt with an allen key?