Ultegra SL calipers "toe-in"
I haven't really worked my Ultegra SL calipers since installing them on my old steel bike that I intend to give a run out tomorrow. These claipers replaced some early 90s 105 dual pivots which felt markedly weaker than the SRAM Rival on my other bike. These Ultegra SL feel no better to be honest and I know it could be down to levers but don't want to conclude that yet.
Might be that the shoes have yet to wear in or that the old Mavic CXP30 rims might need a clean with rim eraser thingy. Pretty sure cable tautness is all good. Shifters are 9 and Ultegra LH (another recent replacement).
Notwithstanding, I noticed that that the rear shoes on the Ultegra toe out i.e. front of shoe has bigger gap than rear of shoe. I will check I have the shoes in the right way (memory has faded now but thought they were already installed when receiving them earlier this year).
Assuming they are correct I saw nothing on the Shimano site about adjusting toe-in although the ads for these calipers definitely talk of it.
So, question is whether toe-in is adjusted simply by undoing the shoe and reversing the washer that holds them? Apologies for long-winded pre-amble.
Might be that the shoes have yet to wear in or that the old Mavic CXP30 rims might need a clean with rim eraser thingy. Pretty sure cable tautness is all good. Shifters are 9 and Ultegra LH (another recent replacement).
Notwithstanding, I noticed that that the rear shoes on the Ultegra toe out i.e. front of shoe has bigger gap than rear of shoe. I will check I have the shoes in the right way (memory has faded now but thought they were already installed when receiving them earlier this year).
Assuming they are correct I saw nothing on the Shimano site about adjusting toe-in although the ads for these calipers definitely talk of it.
So, question is whether toe-in is adjusted simply by undoing the shoe and reversing the washer that holds them? Apologies for long-winded pre-amble.
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Comments
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Basically yes, that's all there is to it. The washers are slightly wedge shaped in thickness, so you can vary the toe in of the pads.
Two ways to set it:
Cheap way: run a cable tie round the rim, then set one end of the pad over the tie with the other flat on the rim, which will set the toe-in angle pretty well, or...
There's a special tool from Tacx called a brake pad tuner. Very nifty, makes the job simple. Google it...
You'll get comments here probably from people who don't think you need to set up with toe-in anyway. Personally, I find it helps reduce brake squeal and makes modulation better, but YMMV.Open One+ BMC TE29 Seven 622SL On One Scandal Cervelo RS0 -
Many thanks, yes it made sense as soon I fully undid a block and saw the washer and ridged area of the caliper it sits on. All adjusted now and distance to rims lessened. Time to get out and try it0
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I just use a bit of an old credit card, and slide it between the pad and the rim on the leading edge, then squeeze the brake lever and nip up the bolt. Works a treat.
More important on V brakes than dual pivots IME.Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
And as soon as the pads have worn in - voila! - you have lost the toe in!0
