Gears won't change

furrag
furrag Posts: 481
edited June 2010 in Workshop
I installed some second hand Ultegra 6510 ( 9 speed), replacing my Sora ST3400 (9 speed). When I made the changes, the bike was in it's lowest gear (39-25).

I used the same gear cable, transferring them to the new shifters. I've pulled the cable tight as I can to install. The rear mech itself is in a horizontal position, thus pulling the chain tight, and is so far out it chucks the chain off onto the chainstays. The front one was pulled tight too, and doesn't respond when shifting.

As I move through the shifters there is no movement in either front or rear mech.

I watched the 'how to change a gear inner cable' on Biketutor.com, but I seem to be having problems. The cables are in the correct shifters too; front mech controlled by left shifter, and rear mech controlled by the right shifter.

What have I done wrong? :?

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Slacken everything off. Find a tutor, adjust front and rear mechs. When correctly adjusted they will change fine.
    Google is your friend, or use search here, must have been asked 10000000000 times

    Try this for a start:

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... ace--26312
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  • pbt150
    pbt150 Posts: 316
    If you disconnect the cables from the shifters and shift up does the cable physically move? A small (1-2mm) amount of cable should get pulled into the shifter. If it isn't, you might have a kink or snag in the cable, or it might not be seated properly in the shifter ratchet. You might also need new cables and/or housing to rule out accumulated grime.
  • Wheelspinner
    Wheelspinner Posts: 6,726
    When setting up a rear derailleur, you must have the chain on the smallest cog BEFORE installing the cable. Make sure your shifter indexing is released all the way too, as in, if you did have it connected, it would be in top gear. (Big ring on front too helps).

    THEN do the cable fixing screw up. You don't need super high cable tension, just as long as it is taut, no slack at all.

    Then you can start fine tuning the derailleur position and indexing with the limit screws and barrel adjuster. NB: best to have the barrel adjuster all the way in, then back it out one and a half turns before you do the cable up. That gives you a good level of adjustment each way.

    Opposite applies for front derailleur incidentally. Have the chain on the small front ring and biggest back cog, install cable, adjust limit screw to eliminate rub and over-shift, and voila. Job done in 2 mins, max.
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