Advice on a few items

blazeNblue Posts: 13
edited June 2010 in MTB buying advice
Hello, I have a few question ...

Onboard computer:

I'd like to get one of these things for my new bike that tells you how fast your going and how many miles you done, I'd like one that stores the overall miles done since fitting the kit if possible? Are they easy to fit yourself? How much do I need to spend to get a good one?

Bike roof rack or boot rack:

roof or boot? Which is best? Also which is the best one for the cheapest amount?

Bike locks:

I've just bought a new bike, it has qr seat - qr frnt &rear wheel just wondering what you all do when you've got to leave your bikes outside lol? Anyway I need a decent lock, I want something that is light as possible but doesn't sacrafice on strength, I don't want a big heavy duty thing that's just a chore to carry arround!! What would you recommend please?

Thank in advance!


  • chedabob
    chedabob Posts: 1,133
    Pretty sure they all have an odometer (running total of miles). I bought one for £5 from Aldi and it's great. Two cable ties to attach the sensor, two to attach the dock, and then all you need to do is enter the wheel size into the computer. The most complicated bit was reading the massive instruction manual for operating it :P

    For a lock you probably want a U-Lock and some kind of cable to run through the wheels. You can pick up a decent Kryptonite one for £30 off Amazon.

    Boot racks are usually cheapest, but they're not compatible with all cars. You sure you can't pop the wheels off and fit the bike in the boot? It's considerably more secure.
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    If you want a lock that will actually withstand more than about 30 seconds of attack you need an Abus Granit X Plus 54 230mm or a Kryptonite New York lock, lesser locks offer little security. No properly secure lock will be light. Get a cable to secure the wheels to the Ulock. Note that getting a lock from lower down the range of these well known brands will not give you more security - cheap locks are cheap locks.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    My daughters friend asked me to cut off a cheap cable lock from his bike (he'd lost the key) took 30 seconds with a decent hacksaw (and that was being careful so as not to mark the frame at all!)

    Accept the compromise or carry a heavy and strong one.

    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • blazeNblue
    blazeNblue Posts: 13
    Ok cheers. anymore info please..?
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    With computers you can choose wired or wireless. Wired need a wire running from the fork to the handlebar. Slightly more effort to fit (still easy) slightly less elegant, possibly more reliable, possibly use less battery, cheaper. Wireless are my preference but I like neat.

    They can cost anything upwards of about £6. Wireless cost more. I like VDO (very reliable, and very good 5 year warranty). I also like the Cateye Strada Wireless, neat, small but with large digits.

    They are easy to fit, really. Sometimes working out to use them is the trickier part, but you just read the manual.
  • Tom Barton
    Tom Barton Posts: 516
    Bike racks - boils down to a personal choice really.

    Boot: Less wind resistance if they are behind the car - less impact on fuel, but more often than not you cant open the boot once their on and there are more contact points with the car which can over time cause some minor scuffing to paint work. You also have to consider the visability of your rear lights and plate.

    Roof: Safer out of the way of rear end shunts from other drivers. Car paint and plate/light visibility not a problem but brings your fuel consumption down a bit (people will tell you different amounts from almost nothing to a fair bit - i guess it depends on the car). Multistorey carparks, very low bridges and drivethrus become an issue if you forget about the bikes.

    I've tried both - I prefer my roof mounted thules.

    Lots of topics on this - it seems a tow bar mounted option is the best money can buy but they are expensive and there is the issue of the bikes being vunerable in a rear shunt (A light knock for a car may break a bike afterall).